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01-29-2012, 03:50 PM   #16
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I have a Vivitar 19mm that's pretty good...

02-01-2012, 05:06 PM   #17
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I sure can recommend the Tamron 24mm F2.5 with a K or a KA. Mine is almost glued on my MX
02-15-2012, 04:45 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by BradSe Quote
Am I better off with a fixed lens?
yes, always... in terms of optical quality

btw I use the Panagor 2.5 24mm, seems quite rare these days

Last edited by Ron (Netherlands); 02-15-2012 at 04:50 PM.
02-16-2012, 05:20 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron (Netherlands) Quote
Originally posted by BradSe
Am I better off with a fixed lens?
yes, always... in terms of optical quality
+1 -- and Brad, some of that is to do with complexity. If you look through the lens reviews and examine the specifications, most of these 28/2.8 or 28/3.5 lenses (the M or A, or the screw-mount Taks) have 6 to 8 elements in 6 or 7 groups. There is a glass-to-air interface between each group. At each such interface, you can have reflection and other optical flaws. And when you get to having more and more elements, they eat light since no glass likely lets through 100% of light. The zoom you had been looking at on eBay has 12 elements in 9 groups, according to Dimitrov. That's more surfaces, more glass-to-air interfaces than the 28s, but not terrible. When you get into some of the modern zooms with a lot of letters after them, it can get truly crazy. (Random selection: A Tamron 18 - 270 F/3.5-6.3 "Di II VC PZD" (whatever all that means) with 16 elements in 13 groups. Come on!)

Admittedly, element and group complexity is not everything; a high-quality 16/13 lens but modern with all the latest coatings might do better than an old lens that's simpler but single-coated. Then there's age and condition to account for, etc. But I stick with primes just for the elegant simplicity (not only of optics, but in general). There's probably less to go wrong (e.g., element separation when the cement fails in old age) when you've half as many bits in there and not so many moving parts as a zoom has got.


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