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03-31-2012, 07:37 PM   #1
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k1000 light meter problem

hi ive asked about this a little before but id like to get down to the bottom of this problem

well as soon as i take my lens cap off my light meter goes immediately all the way up to + and stays there
now ive heard that it uses two magnets so one might not be working? how would i fix this or what would be causing this problem?



also a random question about kodak ultramax 400. in this web post this person shoots with this at different iso's besides whats on the film's box. is it generally ok to do this with all cameras? i know not every film and camera is the same but i was wondering if the same effect would be experienced with my camera as well. and i just got 4 rolls of unexpired kodak ultramax 400 iso for $6.99

like usual all help is greatly appreciated!



Last edited by chris*; 03-31-2012 at 07:54 PM.
03-31-2012, 08:18 PM   #2
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Manually stop the lens down - by loosening it from the mount, so that you can see if changing the aperture affects the meter.
03-31-2012, 08:34 PM   #3
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I can't say about your metering problem. But, yes, the newer color films, especially the ones derived from Kodak's Vision Film technology, seem to have a wide latitude and can be shot at different ISOs from any working film camera. You can expect, however, the grain to increase in the shadow areas plus color shifts the higher you depart from box speed. Here is a test I did with the New Portra 400 developed normally.











Last edited by tuco; 03-31-2012 at 08:44 PM.
03-31-2012, 08:46 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Manually stop the lens down - by loosening it from the mount, so that you can see if changing the aperture affects the meter.
ill give this a try ...


QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I can't say about your metering problem. But, yes, the newer color films, especially the ones derived from Kodak's Vision Film technology, seem to have a wide latitude and can be shot at different ISOs from any working film camera. You can expect, however, the grain to increase in the shadow areas plus color shifts the higher you depart from box speed. Here is a test I did with the New Portra 400 developed normally.
wow thanks for those examples ! i dont think ill sway very much from the box speed.might do it just to see what i like more for the film im going to be shooting most of the time

04-01-2012, 10:18 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Manually stop the lens down - by loosening it from the mount, so that you can see if changing the aperture affects the meter.
i tried this and the light meter stays all the way at +

i see the change in the amount of light being let in too when the aperture is wide open at f2. but still the light meter is all the way at + the whole time
04-01-2012, 10:56 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by chris* Quote
i tried this and the light meter stays all the way at +

i see the change in the amount of light being let in too when the aperture is wide open at f2. but still the light meter is all the way at + the whole time
The battery check test for a K1000 is to turn the ASA setting to 100 and set the shutter speed to B (bulb). If the battery is good the needle will be in the up position or +.

Check to see if you have the shutter speed set to "B".

Phil.
04-02-2012, 12:40 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
The battery check test for a K1000 is to turn the ASA setting to 100 and set the shutter speed to B (bulb). If the battery is good the needle will be in the up position or +.

Check to see if you have the shutter speed set to "B".

Phil.
it does it on all shutter speeds as well as "B"
05-14-2012, 03:20 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
The battery check test for a K1000 is to turn the ASA setting to 100 and set the shutter speed to B (bulb). If the battery is good the needle will be in the up position or +.
Check to see if you have the shutter speed set to "B".
Does this test work with other models or just the K1000 ?

05-14-2012, 07:01 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by DaveHolmes Quote
Does this test work with other models or just the K1000 ?
Yes for the K1000SE & KM. The other K Series bodies (KX, K2 & K2DMD) have a specific battery check button.

Phil.
05-15-2012, 10:00 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Yes for the K1000SE & KM. The other K Series bodies (KX, K2 & K2DMD) have a specific battery check button.
Not the 'M' series bodies such as MG, ME, MX then...

Does one just wait for the meter to stop working on the 'M'-bodies?
05-15-2012, 10:57 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by DaveHolmes Quote
Not the 'M' series bodies such as MG, ME, MX then...

Does one just wait for the meter to stop working on the 'M'-bodies?
Yes it looks that way. I don’t have any M series bodies but I checked some online manuals. The M's I checked don’t seem to have an actual battery check button and use the meters LED lights blinking for a warning if the battery is low or if the meter does not respond indicates a dead battery.

Phil.
05-15-2012, 11:01 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by DaveHolmes Quote
Not the 'M' series bodies such as MG, ME, MX then...

Does one just wait for the meter to stop working on the 'M'-bodies?
On my MX, when the battery finally started to go, the over-exposure LEDs on the meter stopped lighting up when there was over-exposure. At first I thought there was something seriously wrong with the meter, but then realized that the batteries were just done. In any event, new batteries fixed the problem!

At least, that's what mine did. YMMV and all that. If there's a battery test mode on it, that'd be nice, though I can't say I remember reading about one in the manual.
05-15-2012, 11:06 AM   #13
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You might have an inappropriate/wrong battery. Big problem with some older film cams if you want to use the built-in meter -- they no longer make the mercury batteries they were designed for. Mercury is much more stable (current-wise) than the current alternatives. BUT, that's just an aside, the K1000 actually is meant to be used with an alkaline or silver-oxide 1.5v, which will be marked LR44 or SR44. I'm not sure about the SR, but the LR44 is widely available. Nevertheless, check your battery.

There is no battery check on the K1000, nor is there a way to turn off the meter other than putting on the lens cap. If the aperture is wide open and you take off the cap and the needle goes up, the battery is not dead. (And so to save battery power, you must put on lens cap when not in use.) But it could be the wrong voltage or whatever...
05-15-2012, 01:45 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by DaveHolmes Quote
Does this test work with other models or just the K1000 ?
Add Spotmatic and Spotmatic II to the list...that is how it works on both of mine anyway!


Steve
07-13-2015, 05:28 PM   #15
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wrong battery type, perhaps ?

I tried an LR44 alkaline battery with my K1000, and the meter readings were way too high.
I then tried a silver oxide battery (Varta V76PX) and then the meter worked properly.
So, it's better to use a silver oxide battery.

With the Spotmatics I, II, sp1000, & sp500, I didn't have meter problems while using alkaline batteries, but seeing how the K1000 reacts, I would suggest using silver oxide batteries here as well.
The battery in my SP1000 that I'm using now, is a 387s (silver oxide), and the meter works fine with it.
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