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04-10-2012, 09:29 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
@average-guy Thank you sir (: I will look into that. Also do you develop your own film? or have your local walmart do it for you? cause I'm afraid that they might not do a good job
Yes I develop my own black and white film (it's easy), I sent off my C41 and E6 film, it's a combination of 35mm and MF. In the many years I've been having film developed at my local WalMart, I only had once where they put a gouge in an important negative, other than that, I've had good luck with them. I mentioned the Epson V500 because it was on sale dirt cheap for a while and if you add some good scanning software (I use Vuescan) and a book that covers basic and advanced scanning using your choice of sofware. You can produce images that would put the 1 hour photo scans to shame. Plus you can save your valuable pictures in an uncompressed file format so you have backups that you can go back to for re-editing without loss of quality, then you save your finished pics as jpegs for emailing, sharing, or printing.

QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
I don't know. There's just something about film that I enjoy. Maybe because I'm new to it?
Film has a quality that I find hard to duplicate with digital. One thing film has over digital is exposure latitude, especially with print film. If I need to take a picture of an image in tricky lighting I'm apt to hand the digital to my wife and use an SLR loaded with the film of my choice. I'm much less likely to get blown out highlights or nasty shadows. I shoot more film than digital, my main films are as follows: Kodak Extar 100, nice saturated colors, narrow latitude for print film. Kodak Portra 160,400,800, Awesome exposure lattitude, both Extar and Portra scan well. Fuji Pro Good all around film, average exposure lattitude, a little less than Portra. Fujichrome Velvia, narrow exposure latitude but it rewards you with crisp images with great color saturation. If your budget only allows consumer film like Fuji Superia or Kodak Gold, don' fret, I've taken a lot of good / priceless family pic's with those films and the exposure latitude on those films is wide enough that it's hard to screw them up. Good luck.


Last edited by average-guy; 04-11-2012 at 04:56 AM.
04-12-2012, 01:28 PM   #32
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Thanks for the input guys (: I'm still figuring out a lot of stuff about film, it's pretty exciting to me. I'm just doing this as a hobby and as one of my stress reliever so yeah (: I <3 it. Thanks for the help (:!
04-13-2012, 10:18 AM - 1 Like   #33
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Just to throw my two-cents into the off-topic conversation: I wrote a long treatise last year on why I shoot film, and talked a bit about scans (but not much) if anyone's interested:

Why I Shoot Film

Also, if you look at my three most recent posts on that site, you will see a bunch if scans which in my opinion look great. They were done quickly and easily on a cheap scanner (the Epson V500) by someone who is basically clueless about how to make good scans (me). For what it's worth.
04-15-2012, 09:25 PM   #34
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That was a good read todd

04-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
That was a good read todd
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
04-17-2012, 08:56 AM   #36
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FWIW, speaking as an ex-Kinko's flunky, if you want the best scan quality from an image, avoid glossy processing. You're basically adding a mirrorlike sheen that will relect back into the scanner and screw your image quality up if you do that.
04-18-2012, 02:43 PM   #37
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Hi, I have acquired a mint condition Program Plus and it has given me good results consistently. I wonder why the Super Program is so much more desirable (or may be rated higher) than the Program Plus? I understand the SP has higher shutter speed and possibly more viewing area through the prism. Any other thoughts?
04-19-2012, 02:43 AM   #38
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The Super Program/Super A has shutter priority mode and TTL flash metering. The Program Plus/Program A is a super camera, it just doesn't have quite as many bells and whistles.

K.

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