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05-06-2012, 01:01 PM   #1
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Pentax Autobellows K + Slide Copier K + DSLR

What is the highest magnification you have achieved and what lens did you use?

I am using a K20D and the highest magnification I can achieve using a Pentax M Macro 50mm f4 is about 3.5X at 12.3cm.
I can achieve higher magnifications but there are spacing requirements imposed by the slide copier. I can achieve a little more using my Vivitar 55mm f2.8 1:1 Macro but again the spacing requirements get in the way. TIA.

05-06-2012, 03:52 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
What is the highest magnification you have achieved and what lens did you use?

I am using a K20D and the highest magnification I can achieve using a Pentax M Macro 50mm f4 is about 3.5X at 12.3cm.
I can achieve higher magnifications but there are spacing requirements imposed by the slide copier. I can achieve a little more using my Vivitar 55mm f2.8 1:1 Macro but again the spacing requirements get in the way. TIA.
I have the Auto-Bellows K and the Bellows K and the highest magnification that I can achieve is with the K28/3.5 reversed and the bellows fully extended.

Auto-Bellows: 6.18x at 266mm
Bellows: 6.72x at 280.5mm


Phil.
05-06-2012, 04:44 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response.
Did you reverse the lens using a reversing ring or did you reverse the front plate of the Autobellows K?
With that arrangement there is room to use the slide copier?
05-06-2012, 04:53 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Thanks for the response.
Did you reverse the lens using a reversing ring or did you reverse the front plate of the Autobellows K?
With that arrangement there is room to use the slide copier?
I used the 52mm reverse adapter. I do not have the slide copier, but the manual shows that it can be used with a lens reversed.

Phil.

05-06-2012, 07:02 PM   #5
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Thanks Phil but unfortunately using the slide copier presents some spacing issues, primarily getting close enough to the film target as the slide copier bellows doesn't allow me to get closer. Too bad that the slide copier bellows cannot be readily removed as that would solve the problem.

I do want to get the reverse adapter too - rather than reversing the front plate, as it will allow a longer overall extension.
05-06-2012, 07:33 PM   #6
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The pic below shows where the target film (strip or mounted slide) is located. From there to the end of the bellows is long enough that I can't get closer to achieve much higher magnification.



Full setup but in this case I am using a K20D.
05-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
The pic below shows where the target film (strip or mounted slide) is located. From there to the end of the bellows is long enough that I can't get closer to achieve much higher magnification.



Full setup but in this case I am using a K20D.
My manual shows the side copier attached to the lens, so it's one continuous unit. You then move the slide copier bellows for magnification? Sorry I don’t know much more, do you need a copy of the manual?

Phil
05-07-2012, 07:26 PM   #8
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Thanks but I have the manual too. The problem is the working distance and to get more magnification I need to get closer - at least with the lenses I have tried. However I figured out a way to get closer and that is by removing the diffuser and reversing the slide copier. This way I can now get very close to the film using the 50mm f4 Macro as shown in the pictures below.





Using my K20D, this setup is effectively a 20,000dpi scanner. I can now see the detail captured on film that I am not resolving with my Coolscan 9000. The reason for this is I would like to try out some 10,000dpi drum scans which are very expensive. With this setup I can verify if the film has the detail worthy of the cost.

05-07-2012, 09:54 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Thanks but I have the manual too. The problem is the working distance and to get more magnification I need to get closer - at least with the lenses I have tried. However I figured out a way to get closer and that is by removing the diffuser and reversing the slide copier. This way I can now get very close to the film using the 50mm f4 Macro as shown in the pictures below.





Using my K20D, this setup is effectively a 20,000dpi scanner. I can now see the detail captured on film that I am not resolving with my Coolscan 9000. The reason for this is I would like to try out some 10,000dpi drum scans which are very expensive. With this setup I can verify if the film has the detail worthy of the cost.
Glad you got it to work, looks impressive! Should be a lot faster than scanning as well.

Phil.
05-08-2012, 04:31 AM   #10
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In this configuration it is not practical as a a scanner. As for scanning film, I have a Coolscan.
05-08-2012, 07:49 AM   #11
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OK I get it now, sorry I though you were going to mass digitalize a bunch of slides.

I had a drum scan done of an Ektachrome slide for a 2 foot by 3 foot enlargement, they used a Howtek scanner:

The Howtek HiResolve 8000 scanner offers up to 8000 dpi of true, optical resolution; unprecedented in the industry today. With up to 17 different apertures available and true micro-step sampling, you are guaranteed to scan at a native resolution every time, without interpolation.

With a scannable area up to 8" x 10", whatever your original image may be; from positives to negatives, small 35mm's to large transparencies, photographs or previously printed images, the Howtek HiResolve 8000 offers a full dynamic range and 48-bit colour space, giving you more colour to paint your image with.


It turned out pretty well, I think the file was 135MB in size.

Phil.
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