Originally posted by Hilo I have noticed, when it is not very light, it can be difficult to see the data inside the viewer. There's a lightswitch that lights up those little windows . . . you will find where it is in the mentioned manual
To Sibi ... see the frosted panel on the front of the pentaprism? Unless you use the momentary contact button described in this quote, the exposure information in the viewfinder depends on natural light coming through the frosted panel.
Here is the biggest problem with this design... by the time you get enough natural light hitting the panel to make the display clearly visible, you will also likely notice significant flare in your photographs.
An eye cup would probably help by eliminating light outside the viewfinder, but only if you don't wear glasses (I suspect you do). If your vision only needs a simple distance correction (no astigmatism like I have), you can add a correcting diopter plus an eye cup.
Now for the good news... I found the exposure metering on the Super Program to be quite good. Unless I needed a specific effect, using an 'A' series lens, I shot in P (program) mode most of the time and let the camera worry about exposure. My only concern needed to be whether I had a shutter speed fast enough to shoot handheld, and that number appears on the external LCD. Naturally, as with any automated metering system, you need to pay attention to your subject - the old black cat on snow, or polar bear in a coal field story. For really tricky situations like this, I used a separate incident light meter when possible, or made my best guess when not. Then I either used the exposure compensation dial (around the rewind crank), or manually set my exposure. I really didn't need to have a good look at the exposure values in the viewfinder all that often.
I recently sold my Super Program. I shot Ektachrome almost exclusively with a few roles of B&W here and there (those I could develop and print myself). I never really enjoyed shooting color negative film. The camera mostly sat on the shelf as I dabbled in digital via a couple P&S cameras. My wife saw my interest in photography decreasing and purchased a K-r for me late last year. I'm still learning this new instrument, but honestly even with its fewer features, I doubt I will ever be a better photographer than I was with the Super Program.
Play it safe and put in a set of fresh batteries. I liked the single 3v battery for convenience, but they are near impossible to find these days. I suggest using a pair of S76 (silver oxide) batteries. They will last a long, long time.