How to check camera seals for replacement?

LeDave · 09-07-2012, 11:23 AM

I have a Pentax MX coming in possibly next week. This is my first film SLR camera and I've never used or operated a film camera before. I am very excited, I know how to shoot in fully manual as I do it a lot on my K-5. I was wondering how do I check the camera seals if it is needed to be replaced? Also how much does it cost to replace the seal at a camera store? I am not going to try replacing it myself.

Docrwm · 09-07-2012, 11:38 AM

Run some B&W film through it in high noon clear day daylight without a case on the body.

LeDave · 09-07-2012, 11:52 AM

Thanks Docwyrm, will do.

Has anybody bought anything from this site before? Pentax MX light seal kits

**paulh** · 09-07-2012, 11:57 AM - **1 Like**

If your MX has never had it's seals replaced, it's a good bet that it will need new ones. The seals are along the rear of the camera body, where the door seats against it. There's a channel running along the top & bottom edge of the rear camera body that the seals reside in. Also at the door hinge area. Chances are the mirror bumper foam will need replacing. If the seals & bumper are frayed, gummy, or just not there anymore, then you'll need to replace them.

Jon Goodman makes DIY seal kits with a tool & complete instructions for $10 shipped. It's not that hard, if you take your time & follow the instructions. I've replaced seals using the kit on an ME & Spotmatic with very little trouble, having never done it before. I have no idea what a camera shop would charge, but really, it's not that difficult. I'll see if I can dig up Jon's email & will check back. Congrats on your MX

edit: Here's the email for Jon @ Interslice: jgood21967@aol.com
Great guy to do business with! (no affiliation)

Last edited by paulh; 09-07-2012 at 12:18 PM.

**TomB_tx** · 09-07-2012, 12:03 PM

The back seals get messy (gummy) but usually don't caused light leaks due to the path the light has to follow around the back's edge. The bumper on the mirror is the main issue. The MX has a pneumatic damper on the mirror mechanism, so the mirror slows even without the bumper, but the foam bumper disintegrates and scatters fragments over the focusing screen, etc.
Jon Goodman sells seal kits with excellent DIY instructions that replace the back seals and mirror bumper. A search should find his AOL email address.
However, replacing seals doesn't do anything for internal cleaning and lubrication. If you have access to an old CRT analog TV you can do the "TV Shutter Test" to see how even the shutter speeds are side-to-side, and how consistent over several trips of the shutter. Much easier than ruining several rolls of film.
Some MXs had plastic gears in the shutter tensioning mechanism for the curtain rollers. I had sent one to Eric for a CLA, and when it came back the shutter was "capping" - or closing partway across the frame because the leading curtain was slow. I found the reason was a plastic gear had deformed and allowed the adjustment to slip, de-tensioning that curtain. I replaced the plastic parts with metal ones from a donor MX, re-tensioned, and it has been fine since.
Edit: Too slow typing today! - at least you have Jon's address in the reply above.

**boriscleto** · 09-07-2012, 12:08 PM

Just send it to Eric...

Home

LeDave · 09-07-2012, 12:11 PM

Originally posted by boriscleto

Just send it to Eric...

Home

Thanks! Reading his website, I am very impressed with what he does. I will definitely send it off to Eric once it arrives.

Nesster · 09-07-2012, 12:21 PM

Probably cheaper than b&w film - get the cheapest drug store 24 exposure roll of color film, and follow the rest of shoot in bright light without case, get the film developed, and you'll see any leaks... and also, if the shutter needs cla, it will likely start capping at the highest speed first. You'll see capping as one edge of the frame gets darker. Often, what works fine in warm weather starts to cap in cold... that's when Eric is needed

Docrwm · 09-07-2012, 12:56 PM

Originally posted by Nesster

Probably cheaper than b&w film - get the cheapest drug store 24 exposure roll of color film, and follow the rest of shoot in bright light without case, get the film developed, and you'll see any leaks... and also, if the shutter needs cla, it will likely start capping at the highest speed first. You'll see capping as one edge of the frame gets darker. Often, what works fine in warm weather starts to cap in cold... that's when Eric is needed

See how out of date I am with film

It used to be B&W was the cheaper option for such tests. Good to know, thanks.

stevebrot · 09-07-2012, 02:00 PM

Touch a wooden toothpick to the seal material, both in the door groove and at the mirror stop. If it feels sticky, it needs to be replaced. As noted above, replacement is not difficult if you have steady hands, a pair of tweezers (or forceps), and Jon Goodman's kit.

Alternatively, a trip the Eric is good for any camera.

Steve

Jonathan Mac · 09-07-2012, 02:09 PM

If the seals look like goo, they need changed, regardless of whether they let in light. This is partly because you never know when they might start letting in light, and partly because if you use the camera the goo will start to come off and jam up the mechanisms or get on the film. Remember to also check the mirror bumper, this is easier to do than the seals because it's not recessed.

I recenly bought an ME Super on the bay. Before I bought it I asked the seller if the seals and bumper were in good condition, and he replied that they were. When I got the camera the seals and bumper were severely degraded and falling off in pieces. I sent him a mail to tell him this and that he wouldn't get any positive feedback, he replied that there were no problems when he recently ran a film through it.

I didn't ask if the seals and bumper worked, I asked if they were in good condition, and the seller lied to me. Not wanting to risk a ruined film at a later date or a damaged mirror, I replaced the seals and bumper and it works well.

vladimiroltean · 09-07-2012, 02:10 PM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

I recenly bought an ME Super on the bay. Before I bought it I asked the seller if the seals and bumper were in good condition, and he replied that they were. When I got the camera the seals and bumper were severely degraded and falling off in pieces. I sent him a mail to tell him this and that he wouldn't get any positive feedback, he replied that there were no problems when he recently ran a film through it.

I didn't ask if the seals and bumper worked, I asked if they were in good condition, and the seller lied to me. Not wanting to risk a ruined film at a later date or a damaged mirror, I replaced the seals and bumper and it works well.

Gosh, does it really matter? Most sellers don't even bother film testing cameras.

Blue · 09-07-2012, 03:49 PM

Originally posted by boriscleto

Just send it to Eric...

Home

In additions to the seals, you get a cla out of the deal!

**ChrisPlatt** · 09-07-2012, 05:35 PM

Originally posted by stevebrot

Touch a wooden toothpick to the seal material, both in the door groove and at the mirror stop. If it feels sticky, it needs to be replaced.

The foam light seal and mirror bumper material should be resiliant as well.
It should spring back quickly when pressure is applied and released.

Chris

Blue · 09-07-2012, 06:26 PM

Originally posted by ChrisPlatt

The foam light seal and mirror bumper material should be resiliant as well.
It should spring back quickly when pressure is applied and released.

Chris

One other thing is to be careful in case the mirror bumper is disintegrating because the black debris can ruin a focus screen.

09-07-2012, 11:23 AM	#1
LeDave Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minneapolis - St. Paul Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,067	How to check camera seals for replacement? I have a Pentax MX coming in possibly next week. This is my first film SLR camera and I've never used or operated a film camera before. I am very excited, I know how to shoot in fully manual as I do it a lot on my K-5. I was wondering how do I check the camera seals if it is needed to be replaced? Also how much does it cost to replace the seal at a camera store? I am not going to try replacing it myself.

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09-07-2012, 11:38 AM	#2
Docrwm Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Somewhere in the Southern US Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,285	Run some B&W film through it in high noon clear day daylight without a case on the body.

09-07-2012, 11:52 AM	#3
LeDave Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minneapolis - St. Paul Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,067 Original Poster	Thanks Docwyrm, will do. Has anybody bought anything from this site before? Pentax MX light seal kits

09-07-2012, 11:57 AM - 1 Like	#4
paulh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: DFW Texas/Ventura County, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 33,268	If your MX has never had it's seals replaced, it's a good bet that it will need new ones. The seals are along the rear of the camera body, where the door seats against it. There's a channel running along the top & bottom edge of the rear camera body that the seals reside in. Also at the door hinge area. Chances are the mirror bumper foam will need replacing. If the seals & bumper are frayed, gummy, or just not there anymore, then you'll need to replace them. Jon Goodman makes DIY seal kits with a tool & complete instructions for $10 shipped. It's not that hard, if you take your time & follow the instructions. I've replaced seals using the kit on an ME & Spotmatic with very little trouble, having never done it before. I have no idea what a camera shop would charge, but really, it's not that difficult. I'll see if I can dig up Jon's email & will check back. Congrats on your MX edit: Here's the email for Jon @ Interslice: jgood21967@aol.com Great guy to do business with! (no affiliation) Last edited by paulh; 09-07-2012 at 12:18 PM.

09-07-2012, 12:03 PM	#5
TomB_tx Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Texas Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,446	The back seals get messy (gummy) but usually don't caused light leaks due to the path the light has to follow around the back's edge. The bumper on the mirror is the main issue. The MX has a pneumatic damper on the mirror mechanism, so the mirror slows even without the bumper, but the foam bumper disintegrates and scatters fragments over the focusing screen, etc. Jon Goodman sells seal kits with excellent DIY instructions that replace the back seals and mirror bumper. A search should find his AOL email address. However, replacing seals doesn't do anything for internal cleaning and lubrication. If you have access to an old CRT analog TV you can do the "TV Shutter Test" to see how even the shutter speeds are side-to-side, and how consistent over several trips of the shutter. Much easier than ruining several rolls of film. Some MXs had plastic gears in the shutter tensioning mechanism for the curtain rollers. I had sent one to Eric for a CLA, and when it came back the shutter was "capping" - or closing partway across the frame because the leading curtain was slow. I found the reason was a plastic gear had deformed and allowed the adjustment to slip, de-tensioning that curtain. I replaced the plastic parts with metal ones from a donor MX, re-tensioned, and it has been fine since. Edit: Too slow typing today! - at least you have Jon's address in the reply above.

09-07-2012, 12:08 PM	#6
boriscleto Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: North Syracuse, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,475	Just send it to Eric... Home

09-07-2012, 12:11 PM	#7
LeDave Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minneapolis - St. Paul Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,067 Original Poster	Originally posted by boriscleto Just send it to Eric... Home Thanks! Reading his website, I am very impressed with what he does. I will definitely send it off to Eric once it arrives.

09-07-2012, 12:21 PM	#8
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Probably cheaper than b&w film - get the cheapest drug store 24 exposure roll of color film, and follow the rest of shoot in bright light without case, get the film developed, and you'll see any leaks... and also, if the shutter needs cla, it will likely start capping at the highest speed first. You'll see capping as one edge of the frame gets darker. Often, what works fine in warm weather starts to cap in cold... that's when Eric is needed

09-07-2012, 12:56 PM	#9
Docrwm Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Somewhere in the Southern US Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,285	Originally posted by Nesster Probably cheaper than b&w film - get the cheapest drug store 24 exposure roll of color film, and follow the rest of shoot in bright light without case, get the film developed, and you'll see any leaks... and also, if the shutter needs cla, it will likely start capping at the highest speed first. You'll see capping as one edge of the frame gets darker. Often, what works fine in warm weather starts to cap in cold... that's when Eric is needed See how out of date I am with film It used to be B&W was the cheaper option for such tests. Good to know, thanks.

09-07-2012, 02:00 PM	#10
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Touch a wooden toothpick to the seal material, both in the door groove and at the mirror stop. If it feels sticky, it needs to be replaced. As noted above, replacement is not difficult if you have steady hands, a pair of tweezers (or forceps), and Jon Goodman's kit. Alternatively, a trip the Eric is good for any camera. Steve

09-07-2012, 02:09 PM	#11
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	If the seals look like goo, they need changed, regardless of whether they let in light. This is partly because you never know when they might start letting in light, and partly because if you use the camera the goo will start to come off and jam up the mechanisms or get on the film. Remember to also check the mirror bumper, this is easier to do than the seals because it's not recessed. I recenly bought an ME Super on the bay. Before I bought it I asked the seller if the seals and bumper were in good condition, and he replied that they were. When I got the camera the seals and bumper were severely degraded and falling off in pieces. I sent him a mail to tell him this and that he wouldn't get any positive feedback, he replied that there were no problems when he recently ran a film through it. I didn't ask if the seals and bumper worked, I asked if they were in good condition, and the seller lied to me. Not wanting to risk a ruined film at a later date or a damaged mirror, I replaced the seals and bumper and it works well.

09-07-2012, 02:10 PM	#12
vladimiroltean Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Bucharest, Romania Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,465	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac I recenly bought an ME Super on the bay. Before I bought it I asked the seller if the seals and bumper were in good condition, and he replied that they were. When I got the camera the seals and bumper were severely degraded and falling off in pieces. I sent him a mail to tell him this and that he wouldn't get any positive feedback, he replied that there were no problems when he recently ran a film through it. I didn't ask if the seals and bumper worked, I asked if they were in good condition, and the seller lied to me. Not wanting to risk a ruined film at a later date or a damaged mirror, I replaced the seals and bumper and it works well. Gosh, does it really matter? Most sellers don't even bother film testing cameras.

09-07-2012, 03:49 PM	#13
Blue Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Florida Hill Country Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,377	Originally posted by boriscleto Just send it to Eric... Home In additions to the seals, you get a cla out of the deal!

09-07-2012, 05:35 PM	#14
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,694	Originally posted by stevebrot Touch a wooden toothpick to the seal material, both in the door groove and at the mirror stop. If it feels sticky, it needs to be replaced. The foam light seal and mirror bumper material should be resiliant as well. It should spring back quickly when pressure is applied and released. Chris

09-07-2012, 06:26 PM	#15
Blue Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Florida Hill Country Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,377	Originally posted by ChrisPlatt The foam light seal and mirror bumper material should be resiliant as well. It should spring back quickly when pressure is applied and released. Chris One other thing is to be careful in case the mirror bumper is disintegrating because the black debris can ruin a focus screen.