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01-09-2013, 05:56 AM   #16
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Yusuf, is the shutter speed limitation for action stopping speed or ability to maintain wide open apertures in bright condition? If it's the latter then you can use ND filters or take advantage of the huge latitude of most all negatives and b&w and overexpose by 3 or more stops.

01-09-2013, 06:11 AM   #17
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The MX has a rubberized silk focal plane shutter.
Shutter speed range 1 to 1/1000 sec and B

The ME has a Seiko metal shutter, electronically timed 4 ~ 1/2000 , mechanical at 1/125
However,
With iso 800 film , both cameras are limited by meter to 1/8 sec
01-09-2013, 08:19 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Yusuf, is the shutter speed limitation for action stopping speed or ability to maintain wide open apertures in bright condition? If it's the latter then you can use ND filters or take advantage of the huge latitude of most all negatives and b&w and overexpose by 3 or more stops.
Agree, ND is an option but not comfortable, especially in candid situations (different filter sizes is another issue). Hence, I prefer if camera can manage.
01-09-2013, 11:59 AM   #19
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Thanks guys....... that looks pretty unanimous. If I can get it at a reasonable price, I'll buy it.

01-09-2013, 02:07 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Vendee Quote
Thanks guys....... that looks pretty unanimous. If I can get it at a reasonable price, I'll buy it.
Excellent good! You won't regret it.
01-09-2013, 05:57 PM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by yusuf Quote
Agree, ND is an option but not comfortable, especially in candid situations (different filter sizes is another issue). Hence, I prefer if camera can manage.
The film type you use can also manage this. For instance, the huge latitude of most all C41 or b&w film can tolerate > +4 overexposure and be practically indistinguishable scans from normal such as the example from Kodak Portra 160 below.

01-09-2013, 09:26 PM - 1 Like   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by yusuf Quote
I recently had an opportunity to buy MX but passed it because of it's limited shutter speed.
I had to chuckle a little here. I like to shoot "street" with a FED-2. Top shutter speed of 1/500s and NO slow speeds! Just 1/30s, 1/60s, 1/125s, 1/250s, and 1/500s.


Steve
01-09-2013, 09:57 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I had to chuckle a little here. I like to shoot "street" with a FED-2. Top shutter speed of 1/500s and NO slow speeds! Just 1/30s, 1/60s, 1/125s, 1/250s, and 1/500s.


Steve
That is still one more than the Retinette that served me so well with a top speed of 1/250

01-09-2013, 11:27 PM - 1 Like   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by yusuf Quote
I recently had an opportunity to buy MX but passed it because of it's limited shutter speed.
Thanks for pointing that out! I've been using an MX for 32 years without noticing the problem, but now I see the error of my ways
01-10-2013, 01:06 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
The film type you use can also manage this. For instance, the huge latitude of most all C41 or b&w film can tolerate > +4 overexposure and be practically indistinguishable scans from normal such as the example from Kodak Portra 160 below.
That's interesting! The one underexposed to -3 looked better than the one with "correct" exposure, iMHO.
01-10-2013, 02:58 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
I bought mine new in 1976 as the ultimate evolution of the manual camera. Simple and intuitive to use, compact and solid. I have the motor winder still, (not often used). I later bought two good back-up MXs for my original which still is perfect after I replaced the foam in doors and mirror bumper. As long as 35mm film is available, this camera will never date, and you can claim credit for non-automated exposures. I would take my MX to bed with me long before I shared it with my K5.
Similar feelings. It was my first K-mount. The one I purchased in the 70s was lost to a thief (the insurance company replaced it with an LX), but my collection has never been without an MX.
01-11-2013, 11:06 AM   #27
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I think I might like the KX even better than the MX, but they're both great. I prefer KX's needle rather than LED meter, and I think (as others noted) it might be a little more eyeglass-friendly. I also think the KX's meter has a wider coupling range which might be better in some conditions such as fast film.

Shutter speed limited to 1/1000 can be a little annoying if you have 400 film loaded in daylight as it can force you to use smaller apertures than you might want, but the solutions are to use the slower film these cameras were designed for and/or employ ND filters or polarizers.
01-11-2013, 11:39 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by AndrewG NY Quote
I think I might like the KX even better than the MX
I eventually sold my MX and kept the KX (and KM and K2DMD) for the larger bodies. They're just more comfortable for me.

I recently finally bought an LX to have the "all everything" Pentax film camera experience. Health changes bring me to the point that I'll really significantly reduce my gear list - but I'll keep the KX, the LX and the shorter K lenses, plus the best AF lenses (something fewer than 10 total). If the MX were just a tad larger I'd sell the LX instead.
01-11-2013, 12:02 PM   #29
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Several have commented on the small size of the MX, some find it too small. The answer is to mount the winder. It adds a little heft, furnishes a really handy grip, and makes shooting verticals much easier with the auxiliary shutter release on the front of the handle. The only downside is that the winder is a little noisy.

BTW, if you contemplate buying a winder, be sure to check the closure for the battery tray. It is miserably engineered and looks more than a bit fragile. The LX and ME Super have much better battery tray latches. Go figure.
01-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by AndrewG NY Quote
Shutter speed limited to 1/1000 can be a little annoying if you have 400 film loaded in daylight as it can force you to use smaller apertures than you might want, but the solutions are to use the slower film these cameras were designed for and/or employ ND filters or polarizers.
If you can believe it, Kodak Portra 400 is even more tolerant of gross overexposure!

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