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01-11-2013, 08:38 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by AndrewG NY Quote
I also think the KX's meter has a wider coupling range
Slightly less than the MX. Both are linear from EV1(100), but the MX will go EV19(100) as opposed to the KX at EV18(100). The MX has gallium photo cell, while the KX has a silicon "blue" cell.

Steve

01-13-2013, 03:44 PM   #32
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Well I got it in the end. It was on ebay but it was being sold by a guy who lives less than a mile from me. He's a bit of a Pentax nut and I've bought a bit of stuff from him in the past. Looks like he's downsizing his collection. When I've been round his house, its like wall to wall Pentax gear

Its not in showroom condition but I know the sellers description will be accurate regarding its working condition. I should pick it up tomorrow. Here's the link:-
Black Pentax MX | eBay
01-13-2013, 04:02 PM   #33
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Nice, and a good price I'd say. Fingers crossed that the light seals are okay (if so you got a real bargain).
01-13-2013, 11:03 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by ihasa Quote
Nice, and a good price I'd say. Fingers crossed that the light seals are okay (if so you got a real bargain).
And if the seals need replacing, it is still a good deal. After all, the seal kit is only $10 USD and easy enough to apply.


Steve

01-14-2013, 03:44 AM   #35
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Indeed... I picked up a silver one for about the same price, and fixed up the seals. A black one is more valuable, and were going for almost twice the price when I last checked.
01-14-2013, 04:00 AM   #36
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Bear in mind that the 1/1000s shutter speed on mechanical cameras is very optimistic. I started a 400 ISO film in Edinburgh and continued to use it when I got back to Madrid (where it is much sunnier) and the Madrid shots came out lacking contrast and over-exposed. At first I thought that maybe HP5 is just not a good-weather film, but after looking into it, it seems the 1/1000s shutter speed is almost always not as fast as it should be. Therefore the meter was telling me that the exposure should be good, but it was too long. I don't know if a CLA would entirely fix this or not, I suspect not.

Someone who has more experience than me, on some forum or other, estimated that most 1/1000s speeds are around 1/640s. I'd guess that's about right from my limited experience. So now I try to avoid that speed, which means being more careful with the film I select for a given situation, and maybe using an ND filter more often.

Last edited by Jonathan Mac; 01-16-2013 at 05:40 AM.
01-15-2013, 09:58 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Bear in mind that the 1/100s shutter speed on mechanical cameras is very optimistic.

1/1000s?

I find your comment a little puzzling. Perhaps your camera is in need of calibration. All of the fast speeds (> 1/60s with most horizontal run shutters) are determined by slit width. If you have over exposure 1/1000s, I would suspect a lazy following curtain. For what it's worth, I routinely have the shutter speeds checked on camera purchases and everything on my shelf is accurate for the fast speeds. Some of the fully mechanical models are sluggish at the slow end (1s, 1/2s, and 1/4s) due to weak clockwork, but all of the electronically timed units are dead on at all speeds.


Steve

BTW...leaf shutters often are off by as much as half a stop at their fastest speeds, but they are a different beast...
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