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03-03-2016, 04:58 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Johnny Rod Quote
Adjustment is possible with the pots under the top cover. If you;re unhappy with that then just set the ISO to double the box (rated) speed. Depending on your film and preference, some people set ISO to double box speed on any camera. Overexposure is mostly preferable to underexposure. Two of my old 1960s 35mm rangefinders overexpose by 1-2 stops, more in bright light (hello selenium meters), but are also prone to some stray light on the meter anyway so it's as broad as it's long.
Thanks for answering.
I'm not unhappy with stripping it down, as I did in fact tinker with my spare (the one metering right, but doing plenty of other things wrong) just to see if I could do it without breaking anything... so far so good.
In the mean time I came across a page which illustrates the disassembly, as well as the metering adjustement, except... it's in Japanese. A machine-translation can be roughly followed right up to that point (third to last image), but then I'm all lost. What am I supposed to do there? Also, wouldn't it be simpler to just turn the corresponding ISO thingy (in red in that "guide") by one stop and put the dial back in its original position (making it a sort of permanent double box speed setting, which in fact turns out to be the actual one)?
Sorry if this makes no sense, I tried to explain it as best as I could

03-07-2016, 08:03 AM   #17
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Hi Sabine
Check out the augmented diagram by the awesome Ray:
There is a coarse and fine adjustment, shouldn't matter which you use if you arrive at the right answer. The diagram in the link looks to be viewing the camera from the front, whereas the photos (including yours) are from teh back, so be careful about identifying the potentiometers.

I would use a surface that will be good for metering (18% grey card or just a matt wall with little direct reflection, you know the sort of thing), measure with a meter (e.g. Pocket Light Meter app, or another camera you are happy with). Adjust your MX to match - this will be close enough for the real world, without having to resort to standard light sources and all that stuff. Obviously, be careful with ISO and F-stop settings to match them. I think the ISO dial can't be adjusted? I seem to remember the bits will only go back on in the correct position. Otherwise yes, you could do it that way (let me know if you can) - it just combines with the shutter speed position to act on a single pot.

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