Gear P0rn - post it if you got it.

Jonathan Mac · 05-20-2014, 01:53 PM - **1 Like**

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Originally posted by aurele

And this is a good thing ! Keep trying things like that, it gives me some idea for a "summer work" : "franken-lens-ing"

I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ?
I'm using spot metering, Av mostly.
When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops.

Any clues ?

It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode.

stevebrot · 05-20-2014, 05:56 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode.

The behavior depends somewhat on the body and on the lens. All but one of my M-42 lenses have non-conductive bases. This is fine on my K10D since stop-down metering sucks on that camera regardless of lens mounted. Put the same lenses on my friend's K-50 and they only work in Av mode. Now switch to the K-3 and they work fine in Av and M modes. Go figure!

As for the one trouble-maker...that is my MC Jupiter-9 85/2. Its base is nicely painted, but the finish is slightly conductive. There is just enough current to trick the camera into thinking that an "A" contact lens is mounted.

Steve

Jean Poitiers · 05-21-2014, 12:17 AM

Here's some interesting collections ...

Objectifs appareils photo anciens en laiton Image & Son Haute-Marne - leboncoin.fr

http://www.leboncoin.fr/collection/660910010.htm?ca=20_s

Argenticien · 05-21-2014, 04:02 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by aurele

And this is a good thing ! Keep trying things like that, it gives me some idea for a "summer work" : "franken-lens-ing"

I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ?
I'm using spot metering, Av mostly.
When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops.

Any clues ?

There was much discussion of this in the Takumar Club thread and maybe elsewhere, perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. I forget which terms you would need to Google to find it. Anyway I observe the same behavior with most Takumar lenses on my K20D. Av mode will underexpose by perhaps 2.5 stops when the lens is wide open, gradually reducing to a smaller underexposure (0.5 to 1 stops) when the lens is is at perhaps f/8 or f/11. In M mode, the metering is usually close to correct. (I have done no taping, painting, or other hacks to try to trick the camera's electrical contacts, and am using an original Pentax M42-K adapter.)

--Dave

Jean Poitiers · 05-21-2014, 04:38 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by aurele

... I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ?
I'm using spot metering, Av mostly.
When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops.

Any clues ?

Salut,

I do mostly "M" and use an OEM Pentax adapter ... I have not noticed any significant metering differences with the Helios "flat flanged" mount lenses (44M, 44M-4, 46M) as opposed to a 44 or 44-2 type mount. Maybe just lucky or too dumb to see it; so not much help for you, aurele.

A+, J

Jean Poitiers · 05-21-2014, 12:35 PM

It sold for £1,850.00 ... not bad for a broken lens ...

Taylor Hobson Cooke Telepanchro 152mm F 2 8 T 3 2 BNCR Mount Lens LI Y06 | eBay

Nesster · 05-21-2014, 01:01 PM

Originally posted by Jean Poitiers

It sold for £1,850.00 ... not bad for a broken lens ...

Taylor Hobson Cooke Telepanchro 152mm F 2 8 T 3 2 BNCR Mount Lens LI Y06 | eBay

WOW! I paid $43 for a 4x5 TTH Cooke from the 1890s. But it isn't broken, nor is it a movie lens.

Swift1 · 05-21-2014, 09:22 PM

My most recent acquisition

aurele · 05-22-2014, 02:54 AM

Originally posted by Swift1

My most recent acquisition

The body or the lens ?

The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it.
Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone.

The lens, well, it's a bit like this in my mind :

Argenticien · 05-22-2014, 03:44 AM

Originally posted by aurele

The body or the lens ?

The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it.
Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone.

Concur! This was the first camera I ever bought new for myself (vs. handed down from parents), my first Pentax, and my first autofocus SLR. I really liked it for quite awhile. I still have it, although I now never use it, favoring instead all the more classic heavy metal gear that I've subsequently acquired. I got the ZX-5 for its simple faux-manual controls, which appealed to me over the tiny black plastic buttons of other cameras at the time. These controls are actually electronic, not analog dials, but as long as they work the same way, it's a win.

Mine does indeed have the problem that aurele describes, where the flash, um, needs Viagra. Best way to keep yours intact is don't use the stupid thing; attach a real flash.

--Dave

aurele · 05-22-2014, 07:21 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode.

Originally posted by stevebrot

The behavior depends somewhat on the body and on the lens. All but one of my M-42 lenses have non-conductive bases. This is fine on my K10D since stop-down metering sucks on that camera regardless of lens mounted. Put the same lenses on my friend's K-50 and they only work in Av mode. Now switch to the K-3 and they work fine in Av and M modes. Go figure!

As for the one trouble-maker...that is my MC Jupiter-9 85/2. Its base is nicely painted, but the finish is slightly conductive. There is just enough current to trick the camera into thinking that an "A" contact lens is mounted.

Steve

Originally posted by Argenticien

There was much discussion of this in the Takumar Club thread and maybe elsewhere, perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. I forget which terms you would need to Google to find it. Anyway I observe the same behavior with most Takumar lenses on my K20D. Av mode will underexpose by perhaps 2.5 stops when the lens is wide open, gradually reducing to a smaller underexposure (0.5 to 1 stops) when the lens is is at perhaps f/8 or f/11. In M mode, the metering is usually close to correct. (I have done no taping, painting, or other hacks to try to trick the camera's electrical contacts, and am using an original Pentax M42-K adapter.)

Originally posted by Jean Poitiers

I do mostly "M" and use an OEM Pentax adapter ... I have not noticed any significant metering differences with the Helios "flat flanged" mount lenses (44M, 44M-4, 46M) as opposed to a 44 or 44-2 type mount. Maybe just lucky or too dumb to see it; so not much help for you, aurele.

Honestly i was a bit sceptical about the "contact" idea, but i did give a try with tin-foil ...

Guys, you are some genius ! AH AH

the metering is now perfect !!!

Hence, i decided to buy some M42 adapter for cheap on ebay, i'm gonna change the mount of the Helios for a native K

Thank you guys !

Swift1 · 05-22-2014, 12:36 PM

Originally posted by aurele

The body or the lens ?

The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it.
Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone.

The lens, well, it's a bit like this in my mind :

Just the body

I've had the lens for 3 years now.

EJMzagsfan · 05-22-2014, 04:01 PM

Part of the kit I always have with me.

SpartanD63 · 05-22-2014, 10:46 PM

I got this one as a gift from my TV/Media teacher

AND

This one was found at a pawn shop for only $18, so I decided to pick it up. Only "flaw" is a SSN engraved in the back. (I checked, and that owner is no longer living...

)

On a side note, has anyone here ever done long exposure shots while pressing the "test" button on your flash to get a shot because your sync method failed?

Nesster · 05-23-2014, 05:52 AM

Originally posted by SpartanD63

This one was found at a pawn shop for only $18, so I decided to pick it up. Only "flaw" is a SSN engraved in the back. (I checked, and that owner is no longer living... )

On a side note, has anyone here ever done long exposure shots while pressing the "test" button on your flash to get a shot because your sync method failed?

Those Vitomatics are bricks, really heavy nuggets... Both of mine developed a stuck transport/shutter; but after sitting in a box for a few years to my surprise one had managed to unstick itself and I ran a roll through it. Great lens!

Open shutter flash - yes, a few times. Most interesting was several years ago with a Franka folding camera, it has no sync at all. My daughter would trip the shutter in bulb and while holding it open trigger a flash with her other hand. Worked fine:

05-22-2014, 10:46 PM	#1679
SpartanD63 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 351	I got this one as a gift from my TV/Media teacher AND This one was found at a pawn shop for only $18, so I decided to pick it up. Only "flaw" is a SSN engraved in the back. (I checked, and that owner is no longer living... ) On a side note, has anyone here ever done long exposure shots while pressing the "test" button on your flash to get a shot because your sync method failed? Last edited by SpartanD63; 05-22-2014 at 10:57 PM. Reason: I REALLY hate trying to repost from Flickr at this point...

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05-20-2014, 01:53 PM - 1 Like	#1666
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Originally posted by aurele And this is a good thing ! Keep trying things like that, it gives me some idea for a "summer work" : "franken-lens-ing" I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ? I'm using spot metering, Av mostly. When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops. Any clues ? It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode.

05-20-2014, 05:56 PM - 1 Like	#1667
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode. The behavior depends somewhat on the body and on the lens. All but one of my M-42 lenses have non-conductive bases. This is fine on my K10D since stop-down metering sucks on that camera regardless of lens mounted. Put the same lenses on my friend's K-50 and they only work in Av mode. Now switch to the K-3 and they work fine in Av and M modes. Go figure! As for the one trouble-maker...that is my MC Jupiter-9 85/2. Its base is nicely painted, but the finish is slightly conductive. There is just enough current to trick the camera into thinking that an "A" contact lens is mounted. Steve

05-21-2014, 12:17 AM	#1668
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	Here's some interesting collections ... Objectifs appareils photo anciens en laiton Image & Son Haute-Marne - leboncoin.fr http://www.leboncoin.fr/collection/660910010.htm?ca=20_s

05-21-2014, 04:02 AM - 1 Like	#1669
Argenticien Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 208	Originally posted by aurele And this is a good thing ! Keep trying things like that, it gives me some idea for a "summer work" : "franken-lens-ing" I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ? I'm using spot metering, Av mostly. When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops. Any clues ? There was much discussion of this in the Takumar Club thread and maybe elsewhere, perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. I forget which terms you would need to Google to find it. Anyway I observe the same behavior with most Takumar lenses on my K20D. Av mode will underexpose by perhaps 2.5 stops when the lens is wide open, gradually reducing to a smaller underexposure (0.5 to 1 stops) when the lens is is at perhaps f/8 or f/11. In M mode, the metering is usually close to correct. (I have done no taping, painting, or other hacks to try to trick the camera's electrical contacts, and am using an original Pentax M42-K adapter.) --Dave

05-21-2014, 04:38 AM - 1 Like	#1670
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	Originally posted by aurele ... I have something to ask you : When i mount a M42 lens or a franken-lens, the metering of my SLR or DSLR are always completely off by around 3.5 to 4 stops (especially with the Helios 44M). Any idea why ? I'm using spot metering, Av mostly. When using M, the metering is "only" off by 1 to 1.5 stops. Any clues ? *Salut*, I do mostly "M" and use an OEM Pentax adapter ... I have not noticed any significant metering differences with the Helios "flat flanged" mount lenses (44M, 44M-4, 46M) as opposed to a 44 or 44-2 type mount. Maybe just lucky or too dumb to see it; so not much help for you, aurele. A+, J

05-21-2014, 12:35 PM	#1671
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	It sold for £1,850.00 ... not bad for a broken lens ... Taylor Hobson Cooke Telepanchro 152mm F 2 8 T 3 2 BNCR Mount Lens LI Y06 \| eBay

05-21-2014, 01:01 PM	#1672
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Originally posted by Jean Poitiers It sold for £1,850.00 ... not bad for a broken lens ... Taylor Hobson Cooke Telepanchro 152mm F 2 8 T 3 2 BNCR Mount Lens LI Y06 \| eBay WOW! I paid $43 for a 4x5 TTH Cooke from the 1890s. But it isn't broken, nor is it a movie lens.

05-21-2014, 09:22 PM	#1673
Swift1 Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,079	My most recent acquisition

05-22-2014, 02:54 AM	#1674
aurele Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Paris, France Photos: Albums Posts: 3,217	Originally posted by Swift1 My most recent acquisition The body or the lens ? The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it. Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone. The lens, well, it's a bit like this in my mind :

05-22-2014, 03:44 AM	#1675
Argenticien Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 208	Originally posted by aurele The body or the lens ? The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it. Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone. Concur! This was the first camera I ever bought new for myself (vs. handed down from parents), my first Pentax, and my first autofocus SLR. I really liked it for quite awhile. I still have it, although I now never use it, favoring instead all the more classic heavy metal gear that I've subsequently acquired. I got the ZX-5 for its simple faux-manual controls, which appealed to me over the tiny black plastic buttons of other cameras at the time. These controls are actually electronic, not analog dials, but as long as they work the same way, it's a win. Mine does indeed have the problem that aurele describes, where the flash, um, needs Viagra. Best way to keep yours intact is don't use the stupid thing; attach a real flash. --Dave

05-22-2014, 07:21 AM	#1676
aurele Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Paris, France Photos: Albums Posts: 3,217	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac It's because most M42 lenses don't meet the contacts on the K mount, either because the lens is simply too small or because it's got black paint over the part where the contacts are. You can use tin foil or scrape off the paint to resolve it but I've just adapted to using M mode. Originally posted by stevebrot The behavior depends somewhat on the body and on the lens. All but one of my M-42 lenses have non-conductive bases. This is fine on my K10D since stop-down metering sucks on that camera regardless of lens mounted. Put the same lenses on my friend's K-50 and they only work in Av mode. Now switch to the K-3 and they work fine in Av and M modes. Go figure! As for the one trouble-maker...that is my MC Jupiter-9 85/2. Its base is nicely painted, but the finish is slightly conductive. There is just enough current to trick the camera into thinking that an "A" contact lens is mounted. Steve Originally posted by Argenticien There was much discussion of this in the Takumar Club thread and maybe elsewhere, perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. I forget which terms you would need to Google to find it. Anyway I observe the same behavior with most Takumar lenses on my K20D. Av mode will underexpose by perhaps 2.5 stops when the lens is wide open, gradually reducing to a smaller underexposure (0.5 to 1 stops) when the lens is is at perhaps f/8 or f/11. In M mode, the metering is usually close to correct. (I have done no taping, painting, or other hacks to try to trick the camera's electrical contacts, and am using an original Pentax M42-K adapter.) Originally posted by Jean Poitiers I do mostly "M" and use an OEM Pentax adapter ... I have not noticed any significant metering differences with the Helios "flat flanged" mount lenses (44M, 44M-4, 46M) as opposed to a 44 or 44-2 type mount. Maybe just lucky or too dumb to see it; so not much help for you, aurele. Honestly i was a bit sceptical about the "contact" idea, but i did give a try with tin-foil ... Guys, you are some genius ! AH AH the metering is now perfect !!! Hence, i decided to buy some M42 adapter for cheap on ebay, i'm gonna change the mount of the Helios for a native K Thank you guys !

05-22-2014, 12:36 PM	#1677
Swift1 Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,079	Originally posted by aurele The body or the lens ? The body is really great. it's my workhorse. You can put in it a splitscreen from an MZ-M or split/microprism from the manual focus era, but it will need to shime à small snick on one side to be able to do it. Take care of the pop up flash, it's a bit prone to break and not be able to "pop" alone. The lens, well, it's a bit like this in my mind : Just the body I've had the lens for 3 years now.

05-22-2014, 04:01 PM	#1678
EJMzagsfan Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Idaho Photos: Albums Posts: 241	Part of the kit I always have with me.

05-23-2014, 05:52 AM	#1680
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Originally posted by SpartanD63 This one was found at a pawn shop for only $18, so I decided to pick it up. Only "flaw" is a SSN engraved in the back. (I checked, and that owner is no longer living... ) On a side note, has anyone here ever done long exposure shots while pressing the "test" button on your flash to get a shot because your sync method failed? Those Vitomatics are bricks, really heavy nuggets... Both of mine developed a stuck transport/shutter; but after sitting in a box for a few years to my surprise one had managed to unstick itself and I ran a roll through it. Great lens! Open shutter flash - yes, a few times. Most interesting was several years ago with a Franka folding camera, it has no sync at all. My daughter would trip the shutter in bulb and while holding it open trigger a flash with her other hand. Worked fine: