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08-12-2015, 02:34 PM - 1 Like   #3211
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QuoteOriginally posted by Baard-Einar Quote
From todays trip to Liseberg amusement park in Gothenburg. Portrait shot of my KX loaded with Ilford FP4 plus 125ASA.

Nor many around with a film camera.

The KX is a motor drive version. Cla by Eric. Really nice condition. A treat to use.
Nice camera but you need a better lens like a K55mm f1.8, BTW the A and M 50mm f2 and 1.7 are IMO too small to look "good" on K cameras.

On my side I bought after a long time a rangefinder, a curious hybrid between a Canon L1 and a VL:




Last edited by Cuthbert; 08-17-2015 at 01:36 PM.
08-12-2015, 03:32 PM   #3212
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
Nice camera but you need a better lens like a K55mm f1.8, BTW the A and M 50mm f2 and 1.7 are IMO too small to look "good" on K cameras.

Yes it is nice. The lens on the camera is there due to the optical performance, not the visual. It is not the A50mm but A28 f2. On the trip I stacked up with K135 f2.5 and M50 f1.4. Three great lenses. The K55 f1.8 stayed at home.

Ps: good looking range finder.
08-12-2015, 03:44 PM   #3213
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
On my side I bought after a long time a rangefinder, a curious hybrid between a Canon L1 and a VL:
Lovely hunk of camera that. I have the Canon P and would like to add a Nikon rangefinder, but they are pricy.
08-12-2015, 05:16 PM   #3214
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Latest from the local junk bins, $5 each. 2x TC all contacts, Tokina 28-70, and ME Super. They even saved it for me.

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08-12-2015, 06:25 PM - 3 Likes   #3215
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Just had this Kodak Retinette Serviced. It is a relatively rare model worth having in my collection, even if I am no fan of automation.
This is an unusual point & shoot automatic version from 1959. One selects either day, or flash. Flash is 1/30 speed, and day varies from 1/30 to 1/250, with automatically selected aperture when needle in viewfinder is centered. The slowest speed would likely select the widest aperture, but there is no indication of either.

Last edited by arnold; 08-12-2015 at 06:45 PM.
08-13-2015, 09:07 AM   #3216
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The Schneider (and in Europe Rodenstock) lenses on the Retina series cameras are no joke. It's amusing, too, since at the time they were considered lower-end alternatives to the American-made Kodak Ektars, which were no slouches themselves.

It's also funny since in the LF world, you'll often these days see Graflexes with Schneiders attached fetch more than those with the equivalent Ektars attached.
08-17-2015, 01:49 PM - 3 Likes   #3217
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It's arrived!

08-17-2015, 05:29 PM   #3218
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Bought this K1000 recently from a local used camera store. I've only ran one roll of film through it so far, but I haven't sent it in to get developed. Seems to work fairly well though. The Super-Tak 55 is from Keh. Very nice lens, but since the glass is golden it gives a weird "filter" colour on my K-50. Picture is cross posted from the K-50 picture thread. Lens used was the Tak (Bayonet) 135 f/2.5 at f/4. Love that lens when used within it's limitations.



08-18-2015, 02:45 PM   #3219
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I finished an experiment, and am VERY happy with the results.
on my older leaf shutter cameras, i often have to remove the shutter after purchase to clean out the gunk and old grease, to get the shutter working again. I have been using Naptha, (lighter fluid), and the process is somewhat a pain.
However I recently purchased a Zenobia 6x4.5 folder, and the shutter was mucked up as expected.
I pulled the glass, but left the shutter in place, and used a product used in auto shops for cleaning brake parts before assembly.
It cuts that old grease and the spray makes it easy as can be to use in place.
Marvelous results, and so much easier than removing the shutter and disassembly.
Running first roll of B&W through it now. Yay, good stuff.
08-18-2015, 03:38 PM - 1 Like   #3220
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Brake cleaner can be very useful, but be careful, as it can remove some paints. Not very friendly to your lungs to breath in, either!

QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
I finished an experiment, and am VERY happy with the results.
on my older leaf shutter cameras, i often have to remove the shutter after purchase to clean out the gunk and old grease, to get the shutter working again. I have been using Naptha, (lighter fluid), and the process is somewhat a pain.
However I recently purchased a Zenobia 6x4.5 folder, and the shutter was mucked up as expected.
I pulled the glass, but left the shutter in place, and used a product used in auto shops for cleaning brake parts before assembly.
It cuts that old grease and the spray makes it easy as can be to use in place.
Marvelous results, and so much easier than removing the shutter and disassembly.
Running first roll of B&W through it now. Yay, good stuff.
08-19-2015, 05:11 PM - 1 Like   #3221
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Brake clean is great for cleaning, but can be pretty nasty.

At home (my girlfriend and I do a fair bit of car work at home) we use either the brake cleaner from "Wurth" or from Bursons.

The Bursons one you probably won't find (aussie company) but the Wurth stuff is available globally.

Never had either of them damage automotive paint. (but, not all companies use the same formula)


Bear in mind though, that by their nature brake cleaners will remove grease and oil of any kind, so if you clean out something that's supposed to be oiled/greased you'll need to regrease it afterwards.


Use it in a well ventilated area, and ALWAYS have some kind of eye protection if using the aerosol versions (any kinds really, the fumes dry your eyes out and make them sting)
08-19-2015, 07:03 PM   #3222
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QuoteOriginally posted by hks_kansei Quote
Bear in mind though, that by their nature brake cleaners will remove grease and oil of any kind, so if you clean out something that's supposed to be oiled/greased you'll need to regrease it afterwards.


Use it in a well ventilated area, and ALWAYS have some kind of eye protection if using the aerosol versions (any kinds really, the fumes dry your eyes out and make them sting)
When I used it on my Yashica-C, I just did a quick squirt, freed it right up, and apparently left enough residual lube to keep it running smooth.
My Zenobia, that I just finished with, I really squirted and sprayed heavily, it seemed to run fine at first, but I must have really cleaned it out, because after I loaded a roll, it began sticking and acting badly. I used a bit of graphite and a small bit of sewing machine oil, and worked it until it smoothed out.

The stuff I used is bad for eyes, yes, but even bare skin is a problem, it pulls the oils out of skin almost immediately, and causes chemical burns very quickly. So yep, eye and skin protection is needed! I used a NAPA product.
08-19-2015, 07:40 PM   #3223
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Wear latex or nitrile gloves as well as eye protection. They're available most places that sell paint. Test with a drop of the stuff first to make sure the solvent won't dissolve them.
08-19-2015, 09:06 PM   #3224
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QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
The stuff I used is bad for eyes, yes, but even bare skin is a problem, it pulls the oils out of skin almost immediately, and causes chemical burns very quickly. So yep, eye and skin protection is needed! I used a NAPA product.
Yeah, I forgot about the skin.

I never notice it though since whenever i'm in the garage my hands are usually soaked in oil, fuel, and all other stuff.

I use the brake clean to wash grease of my hands sometimes though...
08-19-2015, 09:55 PM - 1 Like   #3225
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QuoteOriginally posted by lukulele Quote
Latest from the local junk bins, $5 each. 2x TC all contacts, Tokina 28-70, and ME Super. They even saved it for me.
Nice find and a great deal.



Last week I was talking to a friend that I only talk to a few times a year. He said he wanted a newer Pentax to replace his aging ME. So I picked up this SF1 and 28-80 for $40 at KEH. I told him I wanna try it out for a month or two and sell it to him for $30. He agreed. So here's my new "temporary" Pentax. It's really nice. The only thing I don't like is the longest shutter speed you can select in manual mode is 1 sec.









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