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02-21-2016, 02:36 PM - 2 Likes   #4021
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I figured this was probably just another 55/2 or 55/1.8 when I spotted it at the flea market this morning. Jaw probably dropped when I picked it up and saw what it actually was. It was priced about right for a 7-element, which meant it was almost a steal for an 8.

No way I was passing it by, and now I finally have one.



02-21-2016, 08:04 PM   #4022
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QuoteOriginally posted by g026r Quote
I figured this was probably just another 55/2 or 55/1.8 when I spotted it at the flea market this morning. Jaw probably dropped when I picked it up and saw what it actually was. It was priced about right for a 7-element, which meant it was almost a steal for an 8.

No way I was passing it by, and now I finally have one.

...drool...
02-22-2016, 09:32 AM   #4023
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Congratulations on that 50mm Takumar! Beautiful copy.
02-23-2016, 05:32 PM   #4024
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Hmm, well my 98 cent ZX-5 is worth about 90 cents.
The mirror locks up. sigh.

I hope the ZX-M does not do the same thing.

I think Eric still works on these, and the gears are still available.
On a brighter note, the flash spring still works, LOL Not that I use on camera flash all that much anyways.

As an aside, I managed to score a Cambron EF-1 flash/incident/reflected digital light meter, runs on 9v battery.
Never used a flash meter, so this could be really cool.

02-25-2016, 03:12 PM   #4025
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Capital/Cambron/Tundra/Spiratone EF-1
Also named Digit-All by Cambron, and Expotrol by Spiratone.
It seems they are all the same, made in Japan, and sold originally for approximately $120 US when new.
This meter uses a modern, and commonly available 9V battery.

My testing shows the meter is set/calibrated for slide use primarily, as it displays exposure setting about 1/2 stop less than sunny 16.
Not a problem for color or B&W negatives, as all that is needed is to set the ISO to 1/2 stop less than the film is box rated.

Usually when using a new meter, you would use a calibration process to use the meter effectively to get the image character and quality that YOU desire. So, this slight deviation is expected and easily dealt with.

Here the meter is set up for reflected light reading. The integrating diffusion dome is slid to the right exposing the light cell to direct light from your subject.



You can just barely see the protruding reset/hold button on the left side of the meter. The reset is used for flash, but in reflected light reading it is used to hold the digital reading while the meter is read. In use, the meter face is pointed at the subject, then the hold button is used to hold that reading while the meter is turned back to the photographer so that the digital setting can be read.
This would be MUCH better as an LCD panel, with an optional backlight, but the LED can be read in bright light by cupping the dial face with the hand. Once the reading is read the meter can be turned off, as everything else is setting the dial, which anyone familiar with meters can easily do. Nothing surprising or extraordinary on the dial setting.



Here the meter is set up for incident and flash use. The diffusion/integrating dome is slid to the right covering the metering cell.

A nice write up on this meter, but incorrect as to the flash meter operation.
James's Light Meter Collection: Capital (Cambron / Tundra) EF-1 Flash Meter

Using the meter as an incident meter is exactly the same as doing a reflecting read, except that the white dome is facing the camera.
Again, the hold button is used to hold the reading while the readout is read, then the meter is turned off, and the dial is set.

OK, so the FLASH meter works very nice!

Set the meter with the diffusion dome over the meter cell, at the subject position. Slide the switch to the flash setting then fire the flash/flashes. An LED will light next to the aperture which will give the correct exposure.

Some people want to know which shutter speed they should use. They don't understand that the shutter speed should be set at the flash sync speed for *their camera*, or lower. If they set the shutter to the correct sync speed, then the portion of subject illuminated by the flash will be properly exposed, at the aperture designated by the meter.

The web page write up by James Ollinger noted above, mis-states the ability of the meter to read multiple flashes consecutively.

The meter will NOT operate that way. If you set the meter and flash at a fixed distance, firing that flash multiple times will not change the aperture designated by the LED.
However, what you CAN do, is to set up multiple flashes to fire simultaneously, then the meter will accurately read ALL those lights and designate the proper exposure aperture for that multiple flash set up.

This meter has a PC sync port, (female), which allows slaving the flash units to the meter. To use this feature, set up your lights, then with the meter turned off, plug the sync cord to the meter. then position the meter at the subject position and turn the on, the flash function, using the slide switch. this will trigger the flash port, and the lights will fire. Read the aperture. turn off the meter, OR press the reset/hold button.
If the meter is NOT slaved to the lights, then you can press the hold/reset button to clear the reading and fire the flash again to get a new reading. (better practice, just turn the meter off, while you change the lights)
If the meter IS slaved to the flash, then the only way to fire the lights again is to turn off the meter/change the lights, then turn the meter back on, (which fires the flash, again).

Recall that this meter sold for over $100 in the 20th century. THAT was an expensive meter! It may seem kinda chintzy and lo-tech because of the off brand naming, however this was and IS an expensive, well made and functioning meter that works for semi lo-light up to flash and does this in an elegant no nonsense way.

In short, I think this meter is likely the best bang for $35 I have EVER spent on camera equipment!!
I give it 5 stars, and multiple thumbs up!
02-25-2016, 03:38 PM - 6 Likes   #4026
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Waiting for K-1
02-25-2016, 03:47 PM   #4027
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My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).
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02-25-2016, 04:35 PM - 1 Like   #4028
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nick Siebers Quote
My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).
Maybe brushing on a little vinegar into the battery seam will dissolve the corrosion. Then try penetrating oil and or a hot air blower.

02-28-2016, 04:13 PM - 1 Like   #4029
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QuoteOriginally posted by DagT Quote
Waiting for K-1
Ja takk :-)

Nice set of lenses.
02-28-2016, 06:57 PM - 1 Like   #4030
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nick Siebers Quote
My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).

I don't know about the Spotmatic but I had a similar problem with an eBay MX. I just removed the entire bottom (only 3 tiny x-point screws). Then a soaking in some DeoxIt for a few minutes and the cap came right off. Your mileage may vary.
02-29-2016, 02:01 PM   #4031
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QuoteOriginally posted by DagT Quote
Waiting for K-1
How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off!

Thanks, Kris.
03-01-2016, 01:37 AM   #4032
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QuoteOriginally posted by womble Quote
How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off!

Thanks, Kris.
I was lucky almost 15 years ago on a Norwegian market, and bought it for about $500. An honest seller realised that it was cheap after making the deal because he got beter offers, but on the other hand he knew who I was and preferred a safe sell.

The A*85 I actually bought new in the late 80s. A bit worn on the outside, but the optics is perfect.

DagT
03-03-2016, 09:11 AM - 1 Like   #4033
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Mycurrent restoration project, Lipco Flexora by the look of it, but from what I can see it is a Flexora folding hood part on a flexo body (?)
I have had it completely disassembled twice, but it will need to be disassembled almost completely again to get to the shutterblades of the Prontor shutter and see if I can fix the sticky issue and a few other dificulties with it, but that is one of the gorgeous things about these old mechanical beasts and old shutters, they are manageable to repair and clean even for someone like me
03-09-2016, 06:37 AM - 4 Likes   #4034
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Hi all

A new arrival. A nice, very clean black Asahi Pentax K with the not so often seen black Auto-Takumar 55mm f1.8 made only for the black K. Early serial number as well, 159xxx

Also seen is the new guy toghether with anothe black K. This one with a very nice Auto-Takumar 35mm f.2.3 and the original hood.
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03-09-2016, 06:59 AM - 1 Like   #4035
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Just arrived today ... "for fun" in that I already had a SMC Tak 67 75/4.5 and SMC Tak 67 90/2.8 LS.

It's been around the block ...no MLU here and the seller told me that there's a problem @ 1/1000 ... no exposure apparently.

It was 109 delivered, so I will play around with this one and if I really get the "67 bug", I will save up for a nice 6x7 with MLU for the 90 LS ...

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