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09-27-2016, 04:46 PM   #4591
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Yeah, sunny in Norway isn't necesarilly like sunny further south, I guess. And then to add up we have evening sunny (which can last pretty long), and midnight sunny. But I was really making a joke about the weather here. We don't see the sun that much to really appreciate the sunny 16 rule, so we'd need to adjust the scale to the rainy side.

09-27-2016, 07:22 PM - 1 Like   #4592
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QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
so we'd need to adjust the scale to the rainy side.
"Rainy Eight"?




Steve
09-27-2016, 11:21 PM - 2 Likes   #4593
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The consensus from the Googles is that if you set your ISO to your shutter speed...

F/22 is for Sunny conditions, on bright sand or snow
F/16 is for Sunny conditions elsewhere
F/11 is for Cloudy-Bright (soft shadows)
F/8 is for Cloudy (almost no shadows)
F/5.6 is for Overcast/Rainy conditions

If f/5.6 isn't bright enough...go inside until the storm's over
09-27-2016, 11:55 PM - 1 Like   #4594
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QuoteOriginally posted by unixrevolution Quote
The consensus from the Googles is that if you set your ISO to your shutter speed...
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.

09-28-2016, 07:27 AM   #4595
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QuoteOriginally posted by asharpe Quote
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.
Oh, now I want one.
09-28-2016, 08:45 AM   #4596
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QuoteOriginally posted by asharpe Quote
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.
My favorite meter is the GE PR-1, you can find them on the auction sites for $5, and out of the three I bought, the first one works beautifully. It does incident and reflected readings if you get the incident cover. The ISO can be set as low as 2, which makes it valuable for my paper negatives. It's practically indestructible.
I use it mainly to calibrate my sunny 16 settings.
I take a reflected reading of an average scene, to set a baseline, then evaluate the actual scene to choose the settings I want to use.

My next favorite is the GE DW-68. Which is also nearly indestructible, has about a 1 in 3 success rate from the auction site, however it will only do incident light in very dim light, closer to EV5 or less.

Never used an extinction meter.
09-28-2016, 10:15 AM   #4597
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Extinction meters had no batteries, circuits, or moving parts. You looked through a peep hole at what amounted to a film strip with steps wedges or squares of increasing density with a number in each. You select the the number that is just barely visible, and using that on a chart attached to the meter that has ASA (ISO) along the other axis, you get a basic exposure setting. There are many variants, such as models with concentric disks for ASA and the meter reading, with an outer numbering for all correct aperture & shutter combinations (similar to dials on Weston and other photovoltaic-cell light meters). Because extinction meters require judgement, because not everyone has the same visual ability, and because every eye adjusts to brightness thereby changing the dimmest number visible, extinction meters were not 100% accurate. But they theoretically would last a lifetime. Apparently Ansel Adams liked one particular model, probably because he related the density blocks and their numbers to his own "zone system" for B&W.
09-28-2016, 11:16 AM   #4598
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QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
I live in western Norway. Is there a rainy 16 rule? :-(
The range of variables for skies that are other than sunny is too great for a simple rule. Application of the old sunny 16 rule also involved being able to judge the range in quality of light as cloud cover increased. The guide for the rule was best outlined on the paper formerly included in all 35mm film boxes for many years. A good summary is available herehttp://naturephotographyblog.squarespace.com/journal/2010/1/12/basic-exposure-theory-the-sunny-f16-rule-explained.html

09-28-2016, 09:06 PM - 2 Likes   #4599
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I've enjoyed shooting this setup with HP5+ recently. This lens feels more balanced on this body than it does on the MX. The MX tends to pair well with smaller, lighter lenses like the M50/1.7 or Rikenon P 50/2.

Being a Spotmatic guy, it feels great in the hands. Love the weight and heft of the camera, but not the light meter HUD. The needles protrude into the frame to far and the transparent shutter speed range leads me to believe there is more in the frame than there really is. I much prefer the MX in that department.

It could just be my imagination, but it feels there is less mirror vibration compared to the MX. And with the mirror lock-up enabled, it's almost vibration free. Would I be correct in saying it is the only fully-manual and mechanical Pentax 35mm SLR to feature MLU? Nevertheless, my favourite K mount body.

09-29-2016, 09:51 AM   #4600
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My Nikon F100 with the PC-Nikkor 28mm f/3.5



Ronnie
09-29-2016, 12:28 PM   #4601
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QuoteOriginally posted by RR84 Quote
Would I be correct in saying it is the only fully-manual and mechanical Pentax 35mm SLR to feature MLU?
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
09-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #4602
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QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
Add the K2 and K2 DMD and those are all the Pentax 35mm bodies with MLU.
09-29-2016, 07:04 PM   #4603
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QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
The MX has an undocumented/unsupported mirror-lock up trick, but I don't think that truly counts.
09-29-2016, 09:53 PM   #4604
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QuoteOriginally posted by ronnies Quote
My Nikon F100 with the PC-Nikkor 28mm f/3.5



Ronnie
Nice. I've lusted after an F100 for quite a while now. Good to see someone else here from Edinburgh.
09-30-2016, 10:27 PM   #4605
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QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
Spotmatics had MLU but had to be specially ordered with it, they are very rare. Spotmatics with MLU can be spotted by the meter switch being mirrored on the other side of the lens mount, with the right-hand switch for locking up the mirror.

Glenn
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