Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
09-27-2016, 09:41 AM   #4501
Otis Memorial Pentaxian
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 42,007
QuoteOriginally posted by unixrevolution Quote
I have not found the stop-down metering with Takumars to be inconsistent enough to actually matter.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I gave up stop-down metering entirely as it's so unreliable, for any type of lens.
Stop-down metering is the traditional gold standard* and works quite nicely with SLRs designed to meter in that fashion. It is with modern AF dSLRs that problems occur. The full explanation is lengthy, but the blame lies with viewfinder compromises and metering strategies that depend on the body controlling the aperture.

* By "gold standard", I mean that the meter cell "sees" the same light as the film regardless of iris calibration. Back in the late 1960s to early 1970s, this was viewed as one of the strong points of the Spotmatic and other stop-down meter cameras.


Steve

09-27-2016, 09:49 AM   #4502
Otis Memorial Pentaxian
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 42,007
QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
I live in western Norway. Is there a rainy 16 rule? :-(
Here in the Pacific Northwest of North America, it is usually "sunny 11" for other than mid-summer somewhat worse in winter. I figure in Norway, it is much the same only much worse in winter


Steve
09-27-2016, 04:46 PM   #4503
Pentaxian
deus ursus's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stårheim, Norway
Posts: 657
Yeah, sunny in Norway isn't necesarilly like sunny further south, I guess. And then to add up we have evening sunny (which can last pretty long), and midnight sunny. But I was really making a joke about the weather here. We don't see the sun that much to really appreciate the sunny 16 rule, so we'd need to adjust the scale to the rainy side.
09-27-2016, 07:22 PM - 1 Like   #4504
Otis Memorial Pentaxian
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 42,007
QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
so we'd need to adjust the scale to the rainy side.
"Rainy Eight"?




Steve

09-27-2016, 11:21 PM - 2 Likes   #4505
Veteran Member
unixrevolution's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Waldorf, MD
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 1,861
The consensus from the Googles is that if you set your ISO to your shutter speed...

F/22 is for Sunny conditions, on bright sand or snow
F/16 is for Sunny conditions elsewhere
F/11 is for Cloudy-Bright (soft shadows)
F/8 is for Cloudy (almost no shadows)
F/5.6 is for Overcast/Rainy conditions

If f/5.6 isn't bright enough...go inside until the storm's over
09-27-2016, 11:55 PM - 1 Like   #4506
Senior Member
asharpe's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 221
QuoteOriginally posted by unixrevolution Quote
The consensus from the Googles is that if you set your ISO to your shutter speed...
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.
09-28-2016, 07:27 AM   #4507
Site Supporter
Site Supporter
Archimedes the Dog's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,146
QuoteOriginally posted by asharpe Quote
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.
Oh, now I want one.

09-28-2016, 08:45 AM   #4508
Veteran Member
45 Mike's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2014
Photos: Albums
Posts: 1,350
QuoteOriginally posted by asharpe Quote
'course if you want accuracy, get an extinction meter. I have one, and it actually isn't bad! A little square thing, with a pop up hood. I can't find it now, unfortunately, but it's an expophot; I'm sure you've seen them. They worked on Sunny 16.
My favorite meter is the GE PR-1, you can find them on the auction sites for $5, and out of the three I bought, the first one works beautifully. It does incident and reflected readings if you get the incident cover. The ISO can be set as low as 2, which makes it valuable for my paper negatives. It's practically indestructible.
I use it mainly to calibrate my sunny 16 settings.
I take a reflected reading of an average scene, to set a baseline, then evaluate the actual scene to choose the settings I want to use.

My next favorite is the GE DW-68. Which is also nearly indestructible, has about a 1 in 3 success rate from the auction site, however it will only do incident light in very dim light, closer to EV5 or less.

Never used an extinction meter.
09-28-2016, 10:15 AM   #4509
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter
WPRESTO's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 58,949
Extinction meters had no batteries, circuits, or moving parts. You looked through a peep hole at what amounted to a film strip with steps wedges or squares of increasing density with a number in each. You select the the number that is just barely visible, and using that on a chart attached to the meter that has ASA (ISO) along the other axis, you get a basic exposure setting. There are many variants, such as models with concentric disks for ASA and the meter reading, with an outer numbering for all correct aperture & shutter combinations (similar to dials on Weston and other photovoltaic-cell light meters). Because extinction meters require judgement, because not everyone has the same visual ability, and because every eye adjusts to brightness thereby changing the dimmest number visible, extinction meters were not 100% accurate. But they theoretically would last a lifetime. Apparently Ansel Adams liked one particular model, probably because he related the density blocks and their numbers to his own "zone system" for B&W.
09-28-2016, 11:16 AM   #4510
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Essex, Ontario
Posts: 682
QuoteOriginally posted by deus ursus Quote
I live in western Norway. Is there a rainy 16 rule? :-(
The range of variables for skies that are other than sunny is too great for a simple rule. Application of the old sunny 16 rule also involved being able to judge the range in quality of light as cloud cover increased. The guide for the rule was best outlined on the paper formerly included in all 35mm film boxes for many years. A good summary is available herehttp://naturephotographyblog.squarespace.com/journal/2010/1/12/basic-exposure-theory-the-sunny-f16-rule-explained.html
09-28-2016, 09:06 PM - 2 Likes   #4511
Senior Member




Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 161
I've enjoyed shooting this setup with HP5+ recently. This lens feels more balanced on this body than it does on the MX. The MX tends to pair well with smaller, lighter lenses like the M50/1.7 or Rikenon P 50/2.

Being a Spotmatic guy, it feels great in the hands. Love the weight and heft of the camera, but not the light meter HUD. The needles protrude into the frame to far and the transparent shutter speed range leads me to believe there is more in the frame than there really is. I much prefer the MX in that department.

It could just be my imagination, but it feels there is less mirror vibration compared to the MX. And with the mirror lock-up enabled, it's almost vibration free. Would I be correct in saying it is the only fully-manual and mechanical Pentax 35mm SLR to feature MLU? Nevertheless, my favourite K mount body.

09-29-2016, 09:51 AM   #4512
Forum Member




Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 73
My Nikon F100 with the PC-Nikkor 28mm f/3.5



Ronnie
09-29-2016, 12:28 PM   #4513
Site Supporter
Site Supporter




Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Essex, Ontario
Posts: 682
QuoteOriginally posted by RR84 Quote
Would I be correct in saying it is the only fully-manual and mechanical Pentax 35mm SLR to feature MLU?
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
09-29-2016, 05:32 PM   #4514
Pentaxian




Join Date: May 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Photos: Albums
Posts: 3,234
QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
Add the K2 and K2 DMD and those are all the Pentax 35mm bodies with MLU.
09-29-2016, 07:04 PM   #4515
Veteran Member
unixrevolution's Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Waldorf, MD
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 1,861
QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
As far as I know, and I'm pretty sure, that is correct. Before that - no MLU, after that - the LX, but not completely manual.
The MX has an undocumented/unsupported mirror-lock up trick, but I don't think that truly counts.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
645n, af, bronica, camera, chris, ebay, eric, f2.8, fa, film, flickr, gear p0rn post, lens, mx, nettar, p3, p30t, pentax, photography magazine, post, praktica, retina, shutter, site, store, stuff, swap, test, thrift, tools, winder
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The "Keeper" Lens Club -- You'll regret it if you sell it. vandamro Lens Clubs 114 04-06-2023 10:37 PM
Is it safe to share my personal collection of K-01 lens p0rn? elpolodiablo Pentax K-01 41 03-01-2013 11:16 AM
If you aren't using it, zip it up! The Jannie Pentax DSLR Discussion 17 09-16-2011 04:35 PM
You've got to love technology and it's mindlessness mtansley General Talk 6 07-24-2011 05:43 PM
Cityscape Got one I'd like to see what you can do with it photolady95 Photo Critique 9 06-25-2011 01:27 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:17 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top