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10-31-2017, 06:03 AM   #5116
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
Mine (three off) have moved just forward of the mounting ring I’ll need to take photos at week end for you if that is not clear!
They are reasonable performers with a generic hood.
Remove lens from camera.
Unscrew the three screws in the outer ring you just exposed.
Ring should lift off...
File face of ring you just exposed. You need reasonable fine file but Swiss Army knife will do!
Reassemble before you get an interference fit.
Remove again and apply 2B or 3B pencil to rubbing surfaces.

Note this is from memory and this reduced the rattle on my lenses but check yours is same first!


Last edited by Xmas; 10-31-2017 at 08:41 AM. Reason: File -> fine
10-31-2017, 07:22 AM   #5117
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QuoteOriginally posted by cooltouch Quote
Asharpe, I use the same a-hrm "Moony" f/11 method for my moonshots also. At ISO 100 and 1/125, it works great.

Lukulele, the Minolta CLC metering system found in the old SRTs is actually pretty sophisticated. Read more about it here:

The Rokkor Files - The Minolta SR Series

So, did this $5 find of yours come with the Kino macro too? If so, that was an unbelievable steal of a deal.
Michael,
Yes on the Kiron/Minolta. appeared to have a layer of crud on the interior of the rear element. Cleaned right up as it was on the outside. Earlier I had found a 58/1.4 back on the rack, so $15 total for the three. Stupid luck!
11-02-2017, 03:47 PM - 3 Likes   #5118
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This showed up in the mail today...

11-02-2017, 07:35 PM   #5119
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
This showed up in the mail today...
The Zorki that has it all! Hinged back! Wide rangefinder base! Lever wind! Strap lugs! Change shutter speed ANY TIME! No fall-out take-up spool!

...Slow speeds? Who needs them! We shoot fast film!


Steve

11-02-2017, 08:07 PM   #5120
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
The Zorki that has it all! Hinged back! Wide rangefinder base! Lever wind! Strap lugs! Change shutter speed ANY TIME! No fall-out take-up spool!

...Slow speeds? Who needs them! We shoot fast film!


Steve
Ya, the Zorki 6 is pretty awesome. It's kinda like they took the best features of both the FED 2 and FED 3 and then put them together into one camera, then added a few other features.
11-06-2017, 12:03 PM - 1 Like   #5121
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This just came in the mail. Cosmetically it's great, but needs some TLC (or CLA, whichever). Shutter curtains seem in decent condition (at least no holes!), but they really slow down towards the end of the run... I was really looking forward to trying this lens, I guess the camera would have to wait, but it has such a nice feel... And the shutter sound is great, very quiet, like my Zorki 3. The lack of wear and sun-bleached dials suggest that this camera was probably sitting somewhere on a shelf all of it's long life. I am certainly going to have to fix that...
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11-06-2017, 12:13 PM   #5122
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
This just came in the mail. Cosmetically it's great, but needs some TLC (or CLA, whichever). Shutter curtains seem in decent condition (at least no holes!), but they really slow down towards the end of the run... I was really looking forward to trying this lens, I guess the camera would have to wait, but it has such a nice feel... And the shutter sound is great, very quiet, like my Zorki 3. The lack of wear and sun-bleached dials suggest that this camera was probably sitting somewhere on a shelf all of it's long life. I am certainly going to have to fix that...
Which model is that?

11-06-2017, 12:20 PM   #5123
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just to add to this, the lens has such a nice feeling... I have preset lenses, of course, Soviet and German ones, but I have yet to see a preset ring that works so nice. It has this juicy solid click. Very cool.

---------- Post added 11-06-17 at 12:21 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Which model is that?
I think that is AP, as it doesn't say either S or K... so AP by elimination?
11-06-2017, 01:36 PM   #5124
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
just to add to this, the lens has such a nice feeling... I have preset lenses, of course, Soviet and German ones, but I have yet to see a preset ring that works so nice. It has this juicy solid click. Very cool.

---------- Post added 11-06-17 at 12:21 PM ----------



I think that is AP, as it doesn't say either S or K... so AP by elimination?
Then it is an AP. May I ask what s/n it has?
11-06-2017, 02:21 PM   #5125
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QuoteOriginally posted by Baard-Einar Quote
Then it is an AP. May I ask what s/n it has?
Sure, it is #148260
11-06-2017, 05:01 PM   #5126
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Nice. I'm waiting to get mine back from Eric. He invoiced the CLA just over a month ago so it should be here any day. I can't wait to run some film through it.
11-06-2017, 05:10 PM   #5127
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctrout Quote
Nice. I'm waiting to get mine back from Eric. He invoiced the CLA just over a month ago so it should be here any day. I can't wait to run some film through it.
So he does fix them. I emailed him asking if he does, as his website doesn't list AP as one of the cameras that he fixes. How much does it cost if you don't mind me asking?
11-06-2017, 06:30 PM   #5128
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Yes he does. I had him replace a shutter curtain on a K last year and my AP (what you have there) was not firing at accurate speeds. He has done quite a handful of my cameras over the past year ranging from my K (1958) to the latest being my KX, K1000, KM, and ME SE. He has my S1a, Spotmatic and AP right now. Most of what these cameras will need is a routine disassembly, cleaning, lube, and reassembly. Recalibrating meters and shutters is a part of this process. If there is anything broken inside and he has the parts on hand, he can repair it. My KM had a bad meter and he replaced it for around $15 additional "while he was in there."

If he doesn't have the parts, you can source them yourself as I had to do when he found a bad clutch in my K. That was an expensive repair for me because I couldn't find a parts body for any less than $100 delivered. That CLA/repair ended up setting me back nearly $400 by the time it was all done. $160 for the CLA and repair, $50 for disassembly of the parts body to recover the needed part and reassemble, $100 for the parts camera, and postage for shipping everything back and forth probablycame to about $50 or more. Add the original cost of the body and I'm into it for probably about $500 total. This one was a foolish labor of love though.
11-07-2017, 02:14 PM   #5129
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
So he does fix them. I emailed him asking if he does, as his website doesn't list AP as one of the cameras that he fixes. How much does it cost if you don't mind me asking?
An AP is waiting at the post office, after having visited Eric. But right now, Eric does not accept new cameras for repare. The plan is that he needs to get ahead of the back log, and then open up the surgery after new year for new patients.

---------- Post added 11-07-2017 at 10:16 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
Sure, it is #148260
Sort of in the middle of the production run. Thanks.
11-07-2017, 02:19 PM   #5130
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QuoteOriginally posted by Baard-Einar Quote
An AP is waiting at the post office, after having visited Eric. But right now, Eric does not accept new cameras for repare. The plan is that he needs to get ahead of the back log, and then open up the surgery after new year for new patients.
OK, then I'll wait. He did give me a quote though. Said it would be around $200.

I was wondering about shutter speeds though. I should probably dig up a manual somewhere, but if you know off the top of your head, why is 251 coloured differently from other shutter speeds? In fact, "25" are red, and "1" is white.
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