[steamloco76]

Auto Takumar 35mm f/2.3 #632110 I scored this very nice looking, super clean lens with the Asahi Pentax I previously posted in this thread. The glass is perfect. Buying camera and lens combo deals is the best way to get one of these classic old Takumars for a fair price. I paid less than the going rate for this lens for the lens and the AP, plus I got the really hard to find original silver AOC logo 62mm lens cap.

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Last edited by steamloco76; 01-31-2020 at 01:50 PM.

[womble]

Auto Takumar 35mm f/2.3 #632110 I scored this very nice looking, super clean lens with the Asahi Pentax I previously posted in this thread. The glass is perfect. Buying camera and lens combo deals is the best way to get one of these classic old Takumars for a fair price. I paid less than the going rate for this lens for the lens and the AP, plus I got the really hard to find original silver AOC logo 62mm lens cap.

Nice score!

[tuco]

I want to know more about the Ford in the negative.

Well, it's a 57' Ford Fairlane that has 56' licence plates. Perhaps he's the original owner. His house is under a bunch of trees that is returning his home and yard back to nature. Sadly, it's just rotting away there. I posted its picture back in October in the BW film thread.

[g026r]

A stop-motion animation I did a while back of setting up the Speed Graphic.

[tuco]

A stop-motion animation I did a while back of setting up the Speed Graphic.

Really cool.

[stevebrot]

A stop-motion animation I did a while back of setting up the Speed Graphic.

Really cool.

Yes, very cool! I might try something similar with my 4x5 field camera. Setup and zeroing to shoot is half the work with that one.


Steve

[K-Three]

Does that density of 1.25 seen on my X-Rite ring a bell?

Sad to say I've forgotten specific numbers, but what you've said makes sense. Have not shot B&W for a long time now,
I work as a Civil Engineer these days, and need to make room in my limited on-board hard drive space for other things. My K3 does a good job of keeping me on the straight and narrow when I put a lens to my face.

[womble]

A quantitative way to find both your effective film speed and find your BW development time. For years I've used a hack of converting a Pentax one-degree spot meter into a densitometer. But this X-Rite 301 is more accurate and a snap to use by comparison.

As I am slowly getting back into large format photography I thought "oooohhh that would be useful..." until I saw the price of them on ebay. Oh well, back to holding the negs up to the window and squinting...

[tuco]

As I am slowly getting back into large format photography I thought "oooohhh that would be useful..." until I saw the price of them on ebay. Oh well, back to holding the negs up to the window and squinting...

It is useful if you play around with different film and developer combos. If you have a one-degree spot meter, you can make one useful enough to both conduct speed tests and find a good development time.

[womble]

It is useful if you play around with different film and developer combos. If you have a one-degree spot meter, you can make one useful enough to both conduct speed tests and find a good development time.

I have a book (?"Beyond the zone system" I think) that has a blueprint for making one using a Spotmeter. At the moment I'm mainly playing around with tilts, swings and rises etc...

For the moment I'm sticking with FP4 for BW (and Portra 160 for colour). Once I start feeling confident with that, I'll start playing with other film stocks etc.

I, personally, enjoy spending quite some time taking a single frame. A non-photographer friend of mine said he found it annoying if he had to spend more than a minute taking a shot with his phone...

[tuco]

I have a book (?"Beyond the zone system" I think) that has a blueprint for making one using a Spotmeter. .

I have that book too. If you make one, get a calibrated step table from the manufacture in lieu of a uncalibrated one and then taking it to some place to have the densities read. I did that at first to save money but ended up costing me more to eventually get the calibrated one.

My reasoning was the one-degree hack is less accurate than a good densitometer and the readings from that lab I took it to introduced more errors ( like a copy from a copy). Mine first one was an uncalibrated Kodak step table and Kodak guaranteed each step was a fixed density value from the previous/next step but does not guarantee the steps will be the exact density value (eg 0.15, 0.30, 0.45, etc) they should be ( eg 0.16, 0.31, etc). The readings from the lab were not the same delta difference from one step to the next.

[Swift1]

[stevebrot]

Pentax Z-1p

Oh...nice portrait!


Steve

[steamloco76]

Asahi Pentax 137917 via eBay from St. Petersburg Russia.

[WPRESTO]

New toy: Zenza Bronica S2.

I had a Bronica S2 for a few years, not long after their introduction. In addition to the 75mm f2.8 I had a Nikon 250mm f4 preset short-mount designed for their rangefinder cameras with a reflex housing attached. A caveat on the Bronica: the mirror mechanism is very complex, and mine started malfunctioning after only two years of very modest usage. The mirror would stick halfway back up into position. I had to turn the camera upside down and shake it, or close the hood and strike it with my palm while the camera was upside down to get the mirror back into focusing position.