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03-23-2013, 07:48 AM   #1
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Spotmatic with 1.4 SMC Takumar

Hey! My first time here, and my first real film camera, I bought the Pentax Spotmatic SP (Asahi) with the 50 mm 1.4 Takumar Super-Multi-Coated.

Maybe I'll sound a little bit stupid... but I come from the digital world DSLRs.

I don't have a battery in it, so I'll have to buy one... it's pretty rare everyone says?!

Is it normal that I can't see any change in the viewer when I change the aperture?! It seems to always stay at 1,4... I guess there's something that I dont understand... maybe when I'll put a battery in it?! With the preview switch?!

Thanks for your answers!

Clyde

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03-23-2013, 08:02 AM   #2
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The Energizer E387s is an exact fit replacement. It is 1.55v but the Spotmatic has a voltage regulator. There are also adapters made that allow the use of a 377.

CRIS Camera Repair and Services - Mercury Battery Adapters

QuoteOriginally posted by ClydePaquin Quote
Is it normal that I can't see any change in the viewer when I change the aperture?! It seems to always stay at 1,4... I guess there's something that I dont understand... maybe when I'll put a battery in it?! With the preview switch?!
When the A/M switch is set to Auto (meaning Auto is visible) the lens will not stop down until you activate the preview/meter switch. If the switch is set to Man. it will stop down when you turn the aperture ring. Pentax did not introduce open aperture metering until the Spotmatic F, so you have to stop down the lens and activate the meter with the switch. You then center the needle in the viewfinder by changing the shutter speed or aperture.
03-23-2013, 08:26 AM   #3
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Wow! Thanks! That was fast... precise and it works!

I tought it was on manual
03-23-2013, 09:52 AM   #4
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Do yoi have a manual?
You can find one here (Passwd = Pentax)

These cameras come from the age of mercury based batteries which were outlawed years later.
However the meter works fine with alkaline/silver batteries like the one suggested before, just make sure your plarity is correct

Now, you will not see a change in the Depth of Filed when you change apertures unless:
a. You use the lightmeter/DOF button on the side of the lens mount
or
b. You change the switch on the lens form Auto to Manual

Good luck

03-23-2013, 11:24 AM - 1 Like   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by ClydePaquin Quote
I don't have a battery in it, so I'll have to buy one... it's pretty rare everyone says?!
Not too rare. The camera works find with modern silver button cells. Physical size is the main issue. As noted above, the Energizer E387s is an exact size replacement, but it has become hard to find. Instead, you might want to get an Excel S400PX battery. They are widely available online and not expensive (about $6.00 USD). The S400PX is a small silver button cell (mine has a Renata 394) with a plastic collar to size it to the dimensions of the original battery. When the battery runs down, save the collar and just get a new 394 from the drug store. Edit: I did a little research and found that the current E387s is essentially identical to the S400PX. Both have the plastic collar.

As noted above, the camera manual is your friend.

Also as noted above, the aperture will stop down when the meter switch is turned on or when the A/M switch on the lens is in the M position. What is not noted above is that the A/M switch on you S-M-C Takumar does not move and should not be forced when the lens is not mounted. There are two pins on the rear of the lens. One is the aperture actuator and the other (much smaller) pin is a lock that is part of the open aperture metering mechanism (not supported by your camera). The A/M switch only works when the small pin is depressed.

You may also want to check the light seals around the film door and the foam mirror bumper (at top margin of the mirror box just inside the mount). Both degrade and become sticky (or even turn to dust) with age. Bad light seals may result in light leaks. Degraded mirror foam can result in gooey junk being flung onto the focus screen or mirror where it is difficult (and not advisable for a noob) to remove.

To test the seals and mirror bumper, touch both with a toothpick. The foam for both should be both present and resilient. If missing or gooey, it is time to replace. This can be done by a shop as part of a general CLA (Clean/Lube/Adjust) or you can do it yourself. Inexpensive, pre-cut kits are available with detailed instructions from Jon Goodman for about $10.00 USD. Jon does business exclusively through e-mail. PM me if you want his address.


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 03-23-2013 at 11:53 AM.
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