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06-18-2013, 11:26 AM   #16
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Maybe, just maybe.....
put fresh batteries on, and wind the camera with the back open
move the film advance axle (the one with teeth) and see if it clicks back to life after a turn or three

now that i rememeber... you cna also whack the bottom of camera (back closed) firmly against your palm
not too hard though... that used to work when my ME Super got stuck

QuoteOriginally posted by dugrant153 Quote
The question is... is it a recurring problem? The sign of something broken?




Any way to do it without opening the bottom of the camera?


06-18-2013, 11:27 AM   #17
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The Super Program is a great camera body. I bought mine in the early 1980's. It was working just fine when I sold it. That said, I wouldn't purchase a camera that old with the intent of using it for paid work without first sending it in for servicing. That is just asking too much for most any piece of machinery. Any minor glitches of the type described by OP should be easily corrected by the technician.
06-18-2013, 11:29 AM   #18
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With prices right in the basement for Pentax 35mm cameras, I'd definitely reiterate the sentiment of having 2 bodies. What I would usually do for weddings back in the day is take my K1000, load it with B&W and my Program + (one model down from the Super Program) for most other shots, doing auto, and then using exposure compensation.

I bought a P3n (P30) just for the lens that came with it, but I agree, it's a rugged, nice camera and I've grown to like it, and like the outer coating that looks like new still.

I inherited a Super Program and like the TTL flash functionality it adds over my previous cameras and wish I'd had that way back then when I was a semi-pro. The gentleman I inherited it from used it constantly until his demise 2 years ago and travelled the world with it. He'd go to places where many would fear to tread, so it's a prized possesion. It comes with me as my 2nd body to my K30 as a good luck charm, if nothing else!

Last edited by Reliant K1000; 06-18-2013 at 11:37 AM. Reason: grammar is not just your grandpa's wife! :)
06-18-2013, 07:56 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by titrisol Quote
put fresh batteries on, and wind the camera with the back open
The second part, I get the first part, I don't. How does battery freshness factor in.


Steve

06-19-2013, 03:51 AM   #20
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The things run by the battery are the two metering systems (ambient light and TTL flash), the viewfinder backlight and the shutter timing. The shutter shouldn't affect the rewind release at all. Still...a fresh battery (batteries if you use stacked S76 cells - probably easier to find and less expensive) isn't going to hurt in any way.
06-19-2013, 05:42 AM   #21
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The A series will not fire without a battery and when people try to wind them it is "locked"
so putting fresh batteries does not hurt, and allow the camera to be fired and to be reset

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
The second part, I get the first part, I don't. How does battery freshness factor in.


Steve
06-19-2013, 06:12 AM - 1 Like   #22
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Maybe another camera that has less issues?
The MZ-S represents the best 35mm film camera Pentax ever made.
I own the Super Program and it's awesome in it's own right, however, if you are searching for a great film camera and are having technical issues with an older camera, the MZ-S and grip are awesome. I LOVE my MZ-S.
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