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09-08-2013, 04:48 PM   #16
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I enjoyed reading your post. I shoot with an MZ-S and find it a beautiful camera to use; so small and compact but with a great set of features and a solid feel.

It took me a few rolls of film to release I love the film look when I combine great film (ektar, portra or XP2) with fast primes (I have the FA limited trio) and with people as the subject. That combination does the trick for me which is why I'm still regularly shooting film.

09-08-2013, 05:03 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Duncan J Murray Quote
You should get something like a Pentax MX with a 50mm prime and several rolls of superia 200 - I think you'd get some great results with it.
QuoteOriginally posted by twitch Quote
It took me a few rolls of film to release I love the film look when I combine great film (ektar, portra or XP2) with fast primes (I have the FA limited trio) and with people as the subject. That combination does the trick for me which is why I'm still regularly shooting film.
I agree with both comments. A simple camera like the MX (my favorite film camera, by the way),a very nice tool, coupled with decent film can be a joy to shoot. Something like the M 50mm f/2 or M 50/1.7 is a great companion to the MX. Simple to use and allows the photographer to focus on the picture instead of camera settings.

As far as exposure goes, some have made comments on underexposure, keep in mind when shooting digital expose for the shade and when shooting film, meter in the sun for correct exposures.
09-09-2013, 05:18 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Duncan J Murray Quote
Personally, I don't do post-processing anymore.
...meaning that you let the scanner do it for you?


Steve
09-10-2013, 03:20 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
...meaning that you let the scanner do it for you?
That's a good point Steve, although I'd say that doing a good scan is much like taking a good photograph - 90pc of the work is getting the exposure right, but you're right that some PP needs to be done on it afterwards. For the perfect result I guess I would drum scan the slide and a reference slide, then apply a correction to the reference slide onto the scan.

Personally I find NCPS seem to churn out consistently good results from my film that doesn't need any adjustment to my eye. That's great for me because I nearly gave up on film as I didn't have the time to scan a roll myself, nor could find a place in the UK that could scan a roll of film to anything above the standard required to tell what the subject was.

09-10-2013, 03:39 PM   #20
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You are not going to convert film to digital without post processing if you do it yourself. Be it in the scanning software with its controls or the image editor afterwards. Arguably, its better to scan such that you collect all the density the scanner can capture on the negative in a wide color space (eg ProPhoto RGB) and the most color depth (eg 48 bit color) and then adjust the contrast cure in the image editor. Perhaps more work and means a color manage work flow but you only have to scan it once if you decide to redo the editing.
09-10-2013, 03:53 PM   #21
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I agree with scaning for maximum information, not for the best look. So during scanning I do no sharpening, no dust/spot removal, make sure the histogram touches both ends of the scale by getting exposure right and adjust contrast if I'm still clipping. I do try and get the colours authentic though. I then post process in LR to touch up; mostly just dust/scratches and contrast.
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