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02-19-2014, 03:54 PM   #16
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Here are some of the things I have done....

Tri-X shot @400 lab developed (looks fine, not as contrasty as I prefer)
Tri-X shot @320 HC-110B 8:30 (I pushed on purpose, these turned out great)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 16:00 (waaaaaaay too much dev, the scanner puked on these)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 13:30 (the scanner still blew out bald heads at this dev)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 13:30 (brighter environment, all was well on this roll)

I am probably overdeveloping. As for switching developers, on the Facebook Pakon 135 group (that is my scanner) folks are posting up insane (even 3200) tri-x in xtol pics and I love the way they look.

So I guess I should say I only have a problem with high ISO :-)

Bringing this all back to the thread topic, I wanted to make sure the film had the latitude to catch bald heads at ISO 1600 :-)

Jamey

02-19-2014, 04:04 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jamey777 Quote
Here are some of the things I have done....

Tri-X shot @400 lab developed (looks fine, not as contrasty as I prefer)
Tri-X shot @320 HC-110B 8:30 (I pushed on purpose, these turned out great)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 16:00 (waaaaaaay too much dev, the scanner puked on these)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 13:30 (the scanner still blew out bald heads at this dev)
Tri-X shot @1600 HC-110B 13:30 (brighter environment, all was well on this roll)

I am probably overdeveloping. As for switching developers, on the Facebook Pakon 135 group (that is my scanner) folks are posting up insane (even 3200) tri-x in xtol pics and I love the way they look.

So I guess I should say I only have a problem with high ISO :-)

Bringing this all back to the thread topic, I wanted to make sure the film had the latitude to catch bald heads at ISO 1600 :-)

Jamey
Why push 400TX so much when you can just shoot Delta 3200 at 1600 or whatever? I guess you like the grainy, high contrast look? Try Rodinal if you want more grain. We've been rambling on about the opposite. Shooting, say, 400 film at ISO 50 and 100 film at ISO 12 basically getting the opposite effect.
02-19-2014, 04:04 PM   #18
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If you shoot at anywhere from 320-1600 on the same roll (possible!!!) you should look into 2 bath compensating developers (Formulary's divided D76, etc) They are very easy to use, have a long life and capacity, and will develop all negatives to a standard level of contrast. Basically, the developer is absorbed into the film in bath one, then activated in bath two. Essentially, the highlights develop quickly and will exhaust the developer, and the shadows will keep going until you pull the film out. Basically the advantages of stand development without the problems. Most divided developers give a speed boost similar to XTOL, too.

Also, try dilution H. I haven't done Tri-X in a while, but 13:30 in Dilution B seems wayyyy too long to me.

EDITL Divided developers are a little finicky for consistency, but for scanning you should be fine.

I also checked the dev chart, and it appears with current Tri-X, 16 minutes is standard time for Dilution B and ASA 2400, not 1600.
02-19-2014, 05:56 PM   #19
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Tuco, when I am shooting tri-x @1600 I am specifically after that 50mm pushed look and it is mostly interior portraits & family life, so loving the grain, loving the contrast. Not loving the over developing, which I am doing. For anything landscapy or architectural I am liking tmax at the lowest iso possible. Different films depending on subject.

Dave, I don't trust the massive dev chart for pushed tri-x at all in hc-110. its all over the place. that and the fact that kodak publishes an incorrect base time for the new formulation.

I am very new at this, I may have done 6 rolls of b&w now (started last year) and am having fun learning. Color developing (c-41) is way easier to get what I am looking for :-)

I will figure it out. I also plan on complicating things by learning how to do prints this summer :-)

Jamey

02-19-2014, 06:11 PM   #20
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These shots are the Tri-X @1600 HC110B 16:00. These are pretty representative of the roll.

Last edited by Jamey777; 10-09-2016 at 06:31 PM.
02-19-2014, 07:44 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jamey777 Quote
These shots are the Tri-X @1600 HC110B 16:00. These are pretty representative of the roll.
The grain is pretty fine for such a push. I think I got more grain with 400TX on 120 roll film pushed to EI1600 it seems. The tonal scale is crushed naturally but that's probably part of the look and appeal.
02-19-2014, 07:54 PM   #22
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This tonal scale is beyond what I wanted. But like I said, I am learning :-)
02-19-2014, 08:09 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jamey777 Quote
This tonal scale is beyond what I wanted. But like I said, I am learning :-)
You want the equivalent of a BW made from about 16 shades of gray?

02-19-2014, 08:14 PM   #24
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ha whoops not "beyond" but .... 'crushed beyond'... when i get to learning how to print negs like these are going to be really bad aren't they?
02-19-2014, 08:19 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jamey777 Quote
ha whoops not "beyond" but .... 'crushed beyond'... when i get to learning how to print negs like these are going to be really bad aren't they?
Pushing reduces the tonal scale. If the negatives have decent density, they should wet print about the same as you scanned them and naturally they will inkjet print as you see them now.
02-19-2014, 08:22 PM   #26
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btw tuco your lighthouse b&w pics inspired me to buy some tmax (dunno if that is even what you used) and shoot my lighthouse here in florida. will let you know how it goes :-)
02-19-2014, 08:32 PM   #27
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Thanks. That must have been a long time ago. I don't recall posting a BW one for a long time now.
02-19-2014, 08:37 PM   #28
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it's in your flickr the admiral point ones i think. it was probably 120 or something. anyway its so sharp and clean it got me to buy some tmax to play with.
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