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07-10-2014, 12:57 PM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by titrisol Quote
If you want AF get a SF or a PZ1 body (take monchome's offer!!)
He asked me (PM) if I meant it - OF COURSE! Just pay the postage - (no response yet ~~~ )



*but I'm keeping the F35~70 & F70-210.

07-11-2014, 05:27 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by 6BQ5 Quote
Like digital photography, film photography has its own costs. Unless you're running a business I think few of us have kept detailed records of how much we spent over the years. Anyone?
Probably about $3000 since 1970, including the two scanners, the large format gear, multiple 35mm bodies, and the full 6x7 darkroom setup. This is for gear alone. I have no idea how much for film. To put things in perspective, I have spent about the same amount on digital cameras since 2002.

Lenses...nice we're having weather, eh?


Steve
07-12-2014, 02:46 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by spectamaniac Quote
Hello!
I have been shooting with my K-30 for a little over a year now, and I have accumulated a small manual prime lens collection. I was recently reading about how 28mm's lose their "wideness" on a crop sensor, and I was thinking of picking up a film slr (k1000 probably) so that I could explore the lenses as they were meant to be.
Snap! K-30 owner for a year, and looking to see what these lenses can do with film. Just got a very well-priced MX on ebay, and looking forward to trying it out. All the comments above have been really useful - thanks.
07-12-2014, 02:59 AM   #19
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Original Poster
Thank you for all the insight everybody! Much appreciated!

07-12-2014, 07:47 AM   #20
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gear wise, you are in for whatever you paid. that is the easy number. the variable costs are diff for each

i have a pakon scanner ($199) so I can do a roll with noritsu quality in a bout 5 mins for the scanning....

home develop c-41, home scan, etc winds up costing me twenty cents per frame averaging cheap film, good film etc...

jamey

---------- Post added 07-12-14 at 10:49 AM ----------

my film costs are from $2 (fuji 200) a roll up to $7.50 (portra 400)

my dev costs for home dev c-41 are about $1.30 per roll (I do 18 rolls on one tetenal kit)

my scanning costs are $0.00 (now that i own the hardware it's just my time)

i only do about 15% b&w and the costs are less for dev on that
11-08-2014, 06:41 PM   #21
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I would recommend a p30t body. The p3 bodies are very rugged. They can do full auto exposure with an "A" lens, or aperture priority with manual, or full manual with any lens with an aperture ring. I have used my 18-55 DA on my P3 bodies. (I have two).
The P3 bodies need no light seals, no goopy foam sticking up your film. They are extremely cheap, I have sold two myself for $5 each.
They usually come with appropriate lenses a 50mm 1:2 or 1:1.7 A lens or some interesting zooms.
As for film, I use cheap color negative film from ebay, whatever I can get usually 200 or 400, and my P30t eats up that color film.
I buy Ultrafine B/W 100 and 400 for my b/w film, it is cheap and it works. Ebay is your friend.
I bought an Epson V500 scanner and I process my own film, both 35mm and 120 color and b/w.
For color I use the unicolor chemical kit, it was about $30 or less for 1 liter .
For B/W I mix my own developer using coffee, vit c and washing soda, it works fine. I had to buy a kodax fixer but I have used that batch for almost a year.
The Paterson developing tank and reels are cheap on ebay also. I built a room in the basement just big enough to load the film into the tanks, but I could have gotten a dark changing bag for about $35 also.
Film pictures does not have to be expensive, or complicated.
Then again, I am negotiating to buy an ME that I don't want, just because it comes with a 1.7 50mm M lens that will make my MX look right. Then I am trying not to buy a 4x5 Graflex field camera. sigh.
Never mind, film is expensive and complicated.
LOL
11-08-2014, 07:11 PM   #22
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I see that a lot of people have already given a lot of good suggestions,I don't know if it's necessary but I'll cast my vote for a Pentax K body or a Spotmatic in good conditions with a 55mm lens. The K1000 is the favourite camera for students because it's the simplest you can find, unfortunately its popularity has made it pricier that the more luxurious models, so if you get a KM for a better price you shouldn't exitate. LX and K2 have fancier lightmeters and more functions that makes might confused the beginner. The Spotmatic equivalent of the K1000 is the SP1000 but for metering you have to stop down the lens, so the most user friendly of the line is the F that it's equivalent to the KM/LX roughly. I would recommend these cameras instead of the MX because in my experience they are very robust and in my case they never required cla: I've all the K bodies and I'm pretty sure they are all in original conditions, bought on ebay and worked since day one, my 1976 K1000 have many battlescars, all the seals have disintegrate but still work great...my MX on the other side requires cla and I've told by my tech that's a difficult camera to service because they repacked and improved the LX in a smaller space. So for me the ideal startup kit is a k or a spottie, 55mm lens, original case, a skylight filter, an hood and the original case (they're very functional, much better than the competitors). If you're lucky like me with $70 you can start and shoot.
11-10-2014, 02:26 PM   #23
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Buy a P30n/P30t.

Seriously, they're cheap, solid, and have everything you need. The panels may be plastic but the chassis is metal, they're a lot lighter than a K1000 and add DOF preview and a self timer. Also they're a fair bit newer, if it's working now then it probably doesn't need a CLA. I've not had to replace anything on the six which have passed through my hands (two given to younger relatives to get them started), other than batteries and film.

Yes they're reliant on batteries. A couple of spare LR44s are hardly bulky. Yes it has DX coding, if you want to over-ride it you'll need to modify the sticker on the film. But I've paid as little as 99p for a late P30 body before now, in perfect working order.

Also look at the P30 with one caveat - early ones don't have a cable release socket, so long exposure shots on "B" aren't going to work. Later models have the socket (as do the n and t variants).

11-10-2014, 02:49 PM   #24
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I have used an ME Super since the 80s and it has always worked well. I find film bodies on Craigslist all the time. Also in Flea Markets.

I got an Epson scanner off Craigslist that is pretty good.

I shoot a variety of film, but I think Portra is my favorite color.
11-11-2014, 01:51 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dangermouse Quote
Buy a P30n/P30t.

Seriously, they're cheap, solid, and have everything you need.
I agree that they are great cameras with the one caution that they require DX film speed encoding on the cartridges. If the DX encoding is missing, the camera defaults to ISO 100. EV comp may be used as a workaround.


Steve
11-11-2014, 02:02 PM   #26
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Realistically I think the only time you'll find non-DX coded film now is if you use a bulk loader, and then you can buy a pack of stickers for the cartridges.

In fact that's one way of checking the metering on them. Test it unloaded, then add a film and see if the reading goes up by the right number of stops.
11-11-2014, 09:37 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dangermouse Quote
Realistically I think the only time you'll find non-DX coded film now is if you use a bulk loader, and then you can buy a pack of stickers for the cartridges.
I have about a dozen rolls of non-DX-encoded film purchased within the last two years. I also have 200' of bulk film in two loaders in the fridge. That being said, the lack of coding on the cartridges are only part of the problem. The real issue is shooting at other than box speed for B&W. As for stickers for the cartridges, a little look-up and you will find that they come in two speeds. There are workarounds, however...

DIY film DX code labels

Where there is a will, there is a way, eh?


Steve
11-11-2014, 09:59 PM   #28
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I'd also vote for a P30n/P3n - got one in great shape for 9 bucks at a thrift shop, and I quite like working with it. Combined with an A50 f1.7, it makes for a nice walkaround kit.
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11-12-2014, 01:45 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I have about a dozen rolls of non-DX-encoded film purchased within the last two years. I also have 200' of bulk film in two loaders in the fridge. That being said, the lack of coding on the cartridges are only part of the problem. The real issue is shooting at other than box speed for B&W. As for stickers for the cartridges, a little look-up and you will find that they come in two speeds. There are workarounds, however...

DIY film DX code labels

Where there is a will, there is a way, eh?


Steve
I don't need a DX code, I can think hard enough to set the correct ASA speed in all my camera!
11-12-2014, 06:15 AM   #30
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To be fair though, I think shooting film at other than box speed is fairly advanced stuff! A P30 is still the best value body for a beginner at the moment, about the only complaint I have is the strange "pzzt" noise the shutter makes, rather than the solid "crump" of the ME and ME Super.
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