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08-09-2014, 12:50 PM   #16
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I think the original intent/preference was for 'aperture priority' not 'auto-aperture'.
In terms of screens I have a split collared prism in one of my MX bodies and a plain matte field in the other. Surprisingly i prefer the plain and find that my eye is trained enough to be very successful with it, often even moreso in lowlight because there is no prism distracting from focus or composition for me. I often find the prisms to give a sort of false-positive and cause me to be more careless with focus. I've not owned the K2, but find the installed focus screen in the KX to be very good as well.

08-09-2014, 01:08 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by chickentender Quote
I think the original intent/preference was for 'aperture priority' not 'auto-aperture'.
In terms of screens I have a split collared prism in one of my MX bodies and a plain matte field in the other. Surprisingly i prefer the plain and find that my eye is trained enough to be very successful with it, often even moreso in lowlight because there is no prism distracting from focus or composition for me. I often find the prisms to give a sort of false-positive and cause me to be more careless with focus. I've not owned the K2, but find the installed focus screen in the KX to be very good as well.
I agree wholeheartedly. I've noticed in other peoples (friends) photography that if they are using a split prism, they often have a much higher rate of photos with the subject set dead center. I found that once I learned how to focus using the matte part of the screen, then I could focus (pun intended) more on the composition.
08-09-2014, 06:36 PM   #18
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hey steve what's wrong with using the aperture rings on an LX ;-) I prefer it... my MZ-S is that way as well....
08-09-2014, 07:54 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jamey777 Quote
hey steve what's wrong with using the aperture rings on an LX
Nothing at all. So, out of curiosity, what did you mean by "Auto aperature (sic)" in your comment above?


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 08-09-2014 at 08:00 PM.
08-10-2014, 11:18 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
I agree wholeheartedly. I've noticed in other peoples (friends) photography that if they are using a split prism, they often have a much higher rate of photos with the subject set dead center. I found that once I learned how to focus using the matte part of the screen, then I could focus (pun intended) more on the composition.
Did you find yourself being able to get accurate focus even when it was an "all matte" screen when it got especially dark or dim - i.e. indoors in a restaurant or a church?
It gets even tougher when people/things are moving! At least even with the microprisms shimmering or unshimmering... without much light, it becomes incredibly difficult to then see if anything is in focus :/
08-11-2014, 05:20 AM   #21
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Steve, I meant the camera computing shutter speed for you. I suppose that is actually called "Aperture Priority", whoops :-)
08-11-2014, 09:21 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by dugrant153 Quote
Did you find yourself being able to get accurate focus even when it was an "all matte" screen when it got especially dark or dim - i.e. indoors in a restaurant or a church?
It gets even tougher when people/things are moving! At least even with the microprisms shimmering or unshimmering... without much light, it becomes incredibly difficult to then see if anything is in focus :/
All TTL manual focusing cameras become trouble in dim conditions, TLR and SLR. I find split prisms to be more distracting, especially when they start blacking out. Of the two, I prefer microprisms.
My two favorite 35mm cameras for manual focusing are my K2 and SP-F. I think they both had the same matte screen with microprism. They seemed to show focus better on the main part of the screen.
08-12-2014, 05:45 AM   #23
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I have heard it said (maybe in a user manual?) that the split collar microprism is used in three ways

1) the matte surface covering the entire screen for initial focus / telephoto focus
2) the collar/ring for close shots (say less than 10 feet)
3) split prism for exact detail or very close shots

This seems to work for me, not sure how accurate it is.

Jamey

---------- Post added 08-12-14 at 08:49 AM ----------

ok it was the LX manual...

"The Pentax LX comes equipped with the standard SC-21 split-image/microprism focusing screen which provides a split-image center spot surrounded by a microprism collar on a matte field The SC-21 is fully interchangeable with eight other focusing screen models to provide focusing versatility capable of meeting almost any picture-taking need (see page 49). When using the split-image center spot simply turn the lens focusing ring until the broken image in the center spot in the viewfinder aligns as one.
When using the microprism collar surrounding the center spot, rotate the lens focusing ring until the "shimmering" effect in the collar area seems to d disappear.
The matte field is quite handy for focusing in rapidly changing conditions where there simply isn't time to use either the split-image spot or microprism collar or for focusing with long telephoto lenses having small apertures. To focus, turn the focusing ring on the lens until the image on the matte field appears sharp and crisp. "

Pentax LX


Last edited by Jamey777; 08-12-2014 at 05:50 AM. Reason: accuracy
08-12-2014, 08:47 AM   #24
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Had a chance to shoot my Super Program at a dinner and was quite concerned when, even with an F2, lens, I couldn't focus. It wasn't super dim but tungsten lighting seems to throw me off. Couldnt see the microprisms. Makes me wonder if a matte screen in the K2 would improve accuracy in this regard?

---------- Post added 08-12-2014 at 08:54 AM ----------

Had a chance to shoot my Super Program at a dinner and was quite concerned when, even with an F2, lens, I couldn't focus. It wasn't super dim but tungsten lighting seems to throw me off. Couldnt see the microprisms. Makes me wonder if a matte screen in the K2 would improve accuracy in this regard?

Just reading some comments and looks like microprisms are great in daylight but washout in low light?
08-23-2014, 12:06 AM   #25
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OK, I might get a chance to take another look at this camera tomorrow. What do you guys think? Looking to pair it up with a CV 40mm F2 Ultron for lower light shooting. If it has a split prism and really bright viewfinder, I think I could go with it...?
08-23-2014, 09:10 AM   #26
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The K2 is my favorite "Automatic" film body. The film-speed setting ring has been nearly impossible to turn on every one I have found. I opened it up and removed the button & spring. The ring is still tight, but now it turns when I want it to.

Try pairing it with a K 55mm 1.8.
08-23-2014, 10:35 PM   #27
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Well, after trying it out for a bit, I can concur that the speed setting ring is impossible to turn! Other than that, it's a fine camera with a great view finder (from what I can tell). And actually not as loud as I recall it to be.
They (the store) were going to have the repair guy take a look at it and see if it can be fixed before he sold it to me. We shall see how it goes!
08-24-2014, 04:36 AM   #28
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I thought mine was impossible to turn but I was doing it wrong and in fact it turns very smoothly. Push the button in and at the bottom of the mount, where the ring is easiest to get to use your thumb to gently push the ring round.
08-24-2014, 04:43 AM   #29
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Was just going to say the same thing, Jonathon. The knack is to use two hands.
08-24-2014, 05:52 AM   #30
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It's easier when you know the trick, but still one of Pentax' worst designs.

Chris
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