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05-19-2008, 08:15 PM   #1
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Tri x B&W film

Well it took me a month and a half to shoot 36 exposers of Tri-x film and when I took it to CVS to have it developed, they told me they where not sure they could do it and if I wanted to take a chance that it would be on me. I said no and took it to a pro shop to have it developed...I am glad I did...I am astounded at the sharpness and clarity of this film. The detail is simply breath taking. What was a bit of a surprise was the $23.00 development fee and prints, (no cd) but since all but three are keepers and will be going into my album, it is well worth the cost....However I will need to learn to develop my own stuff. I hated waiting a week to get it back....But when I did, it was like Christmas....I will scan the images tomorrow and post some up...Thanks again for all the advice....

By the way, is it different to develop Tri X? Is it not the same as C41?

05-19-2008, 09:28 PM   #2
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You can get a kit to process tri-x, it's reallt easy, I used to do it all the time... you get a drum + chemicals.

God what were the chemicals... I can't remember it was so long ago!!!! I think the developper was D-76? I can't remember what the stop bath and fixer were... man I am getting old!

I used to buy tri-x in bulk and had a loader and 5-6 re-usable film canisters. Those were the days!

Pat
05-19-2008, 09:35 PM   #3
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Pat is right, D-76 is one of the available developers for B&W film. There are several other options - each has its own characteristics when it comes to grain and contrast.

C-41 is not for Tri-X but for negative color film and modern B&W film based on the technology of color film.
05-19-2008, 10:30 PM   #4
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Javier

You might want to try Xtol. It is a Kodak product that is less toxic than D76. It is an ascorbic acid developer.

05-20-2008, 12:12 AM   #5
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D-76 sounds very familiar. Which stop bath you use or fix doesn't matter as long you get the right concentration and time. Used to be several brands. Stop bath is just Acetic acid with a color marker that change color when it is all used up. I think I used to use Kodak stop bath and Ilford fixer, but have no idea what is available now. Most of the silver end up in the fixing agent, so it should be returned for recycling. If you want to prolong the life of the film you can finnish with HCA (Hydro cleaning agent). Agitation and temperatures matter a lot, actually when you have learned the standard procedure you can influence the appearance of the pictures (contrast, resolution etc) with changes in temperature, time, concentration or aggitation.
If I remember correctly, Tri-X has less resolution than the T-Max, but sharper edge contrast, which makes many features in the film looks more distinct. The grain are also very sharp which can be an effect itself. Has something to do with how the developed silveriodide cluster, have forgot the details.
Read up before you buy the drum and spirals. It can be a mess in the darkness loading a sheap and bad one, while it can be just so easy. Have fun!
05-20-2008, 03:11 AM   #6
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Walgreens/CVS/Walmart will most probably not develop TriX

TriX and all other silver films differ from C41 films in the composition of the final image. In the first case the image is composed of small "grains"of silver while in the latter it si composed of organic dye "points/clouds"

Processing in both cases is different, while the first processing is a simple chemicla reaction to "reduce"the silver and make it metallic the second requires another step to make the color dyes develop.

Since you are in LA area, probably Freestyle can help you developing the film. Otherwise they also have very decent, not so expensive developing kits, all you need in a box kind of deal.
www. freestylephoto. biz

PS. if you want to do BW and drop it in CVS use Ilford XP2 Super
05-20-2008, 06:13 AM   #7
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I, too, like the traditional (i.e. non-C-41) Kodak B&W films. I have tried the 400 speed, and will soon load a roll of the PX125. Also, if you would like the convenience of C-41 processing, the Kodak 400 CN is an excellent film. I tried the more expensive Fuji Acros and Neopan, and I prefer the Kodak films, including their C-41 B&W. People seem to like the Fuji B&W films, but they were just too black for me...the grays of the Tri-X films are astounding.
05-20-2008, 10:30 AM   #8
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Thanks guys.
Here are two scans. I will post more as I have time. Right now I am work. perhaps lunchtime.
These are direct scans. Cropped and re sized only.




05-20-2008, 10:46 AM   #9
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What can one say except: better-than-digital results.
05-20-2008, 02:13 PM   #10
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I have to admit that though colour digitals are awesome, look great and are super practical, no amount of photoshop B/W conversion of a colour digital even comes close to the wonderfull look and grain of tri-x...

Almost makes me want to dig out my old b/w stuff...

Pat
05-20-2008, 02:50 PM   #11
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I agree and have been saying so. It is really tough to beat a good film image.
05-20-2008, 02:59 PM   #12
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Here are a few more black and whites with the Tri X



My son holding our Bird guide as we where on a bird hunt.


My son checking off birds we shot....
05-20-2008, 03:38 PM   #13
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Pat is Spot On.

QuoteOriginally posted by ve2vfd Quote
I have to admit that though colour digitals are awesome, look great and are super practical, no amount of photoshop B/W conversion of a colour digital even comes close to the wonderfull look and grain of tri-x...

Almost makes me want to dig out my old b/w stuff...

Pat
I agree with Pat 100%. For color, the digital bodies are great, for B&W.... Not so much. I have seen some PP that creates decent B&W conversions but it still does not look as good as a mediocre Tri-X shot that is scanned.
05-20-2008, 03:42 PM   #14
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Tri-X is the king of all silver halide.

That is all.

Well, for now.
05-20-2008, 03:45 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
Well it took me a month and a half to shoot 36 exposers of T

By the way, is it different to develop Tri X? Is it not the same as C41?
NO NO NO

Dave
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