[gofour3]

These are the extra features the K2DMD has over the K2:


- The “Judas Window” Aperture Read-Out
- Exposure Compensation Warning
- Built-in Eyepiece Blind
- Low Battery Voltage Warning
- Photo Memory Lock
- Extended Photo Memory
- Split-Microprism Focusing Aid
- Interchangeable Backs
- Motor Drive Unit (Optional)
- Battery Grip (Optional)
- Data Back (Optional)

Phil.

[stevebrot]

True, the K2 does have aperture priority AE, but more capable?
The functional equivalent of aperture priority is performed easily on any manual exposure camera
simply by preselecting the desired aperture, then using the shutter speed suggested by the meter.

For me the aperture readout in the finder (KX, MX and K2DMD) is a far more valuable feature than AE.
The time spent removing one's eye from the viewfinder (to set aperture on the K2 for instance) can mean a shot (or more) lost.

Chris

I agree with you completely.

In 1982, I chose the Ricoh XR7 over the Pentax ME Super based to a great extent on the viewfinder features. I could not see the logic of having Aperture-priority AE without knowing what aperture you were set at. Let us pause a moment to let that soak in. It is a feature that I use frequently on my cameras that have it and one that I miss with those that don't. A full information viewfinder is useful on a manual exposure camera, but essential with AE.

The K2 is a cool camera, there is no doubt and a worthy tool. That being said, the KX is my choice of the K-series bodies with the KM between it and the K2.


Steve

[Cuthbert]

True, the K2 does have aperture priority AE, but more capable?
The functional equivalent of aperture priority is performed easily on any manual exposure camera
simply by preselecting the desired aperture, then using the shutter speed suggested by the meter.

For me the aperture readout in the finder (KX, MX and K2DMD) is a far more valuable feature than AE.
The time spent removing one's eye from the viewfinder (to set aperture on the K2 for instance) can mean a shot (or more) lost.

Chris

Mmm not really because to perform the "manual" aperture priority you would be needing to have a shutter that continuously changes the speed, the only two cameras with that feature are the Leica M5 and the Nikon F2 to my knowledge, that' the reason why AE became popular in the 80s.

There are many shots where, to me at least, aperture is not critical. (Candid shot of Little Timmy petting Lassie in the yard, for example. Cute pic, but DOF doesn't matter much.) In those cases, f/8 or f/11 or f/5.6 or whatever is fine. For exposure, I may adjust shutter speed, or I may adjust aperture. In any case, I don't look for the aperture in the Judas window because it doesn't matter.
For shots where the DOF is important, I'll usually (but certainly not always) set the aperture before composing the shot. In those cases, the Judas window still doesn't really come into play, because I am holding at, say, f/4, with shutter speed being variable.
This is how I usually do it, but I am by no means suggesting everyone should do it my way. If we all did it the same, Pentax would have only needed to produce one model of camera.

I agree, that's the entire point of aperture priority, not to mention that you can set up a K2/K2DMD/LX in auto, fix the aperture you want and the camera automatically variates the speed according to the light conditions, for instance, if you are shooting a subject in the shadow and then in the light or if the light begins to change.

[ChrisPlatt]

Mmm not really because to perform the "manual" aperture priority you would be needing to have a shutter that continuously changes the speed, the only two cameras with that feature are the Leica M5 and the Nikon F2 to my knowledge, that' the reason why AE became popular in the 80s.

If by "continuously" you mean steplessly, a fraction of a stop over- or underexposure is insignificant,
despite marketing hype, even with transparency film.

You simply change the speed manually as needed, the same way AE would do it automatically.
It's easy to do this quickly in a camera with a full exposure information viewfinder,
since you need never take your eye from the viewfinder.

An additional important benefit to this method is that you can bias the setting based on experience,
anticipating when the meter and AE would likely be fooled by challenging lighting.

Chris

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Last edited by ChrisPlatt; 11-19-2014 at 03:31 AM.

[Cuthbert]

If by "continuously" you mean steplessly, a fraction of a stop over- or underexposure is insignificant,
despite marketing hype, even with transparency film.

You simply change the speed manually as needed, the same way AE would do it automatically.
It's easy to do this quickly in a camera with a full exposure information viewfinder,
since you need never take your eye from the viewfinder.

An additional important benefit to this method is that you can bias the setting based on experience,
anticipating when the meter and AE would likely be fooled by challenging lighting.

Chris

Ok then Leica and Nikon have introduced a useless and meaningless function in their top models of the 70s, and the exposure compensation by 1/3rd of step that most of the pro cameras (K2, LX, F-1, F2, F3 etc...) is useless too...good to know that!

And according to your reasoning there's no point in the window because you can set it up BEFORE shooting and then rotate the speed dial so unless you forget about it you should be always aware of the opening...well to each its own I assume.

[ChrisPlatt]

Ok then Leica and Nikon have introduced a useless and meaningless function in their top models of the 70s, and the exposure compensation by 1/3rd of step that most of the pro cameras (K2, LX, F-1, F2, F3 etc...) is useless too...good to know that!

Yes. IMO useless as the difference is insignificant. Pure marketing hype.
Exposure compensation - by full stops, half stops or whatever is a flawed and awkward way to fight the automation.
Switching to manual is just easier.

And according to your reasoning there's no point in the window because you can set it up BEFORE shooting and then rotate the speed dial so unless you forget about it you should be always aware of the opening...well to each its own I assume.

Unless you decide you want to change apertures. To each his own indeed...

Chris

[Vova]

Hi guys.
Just to share my experiense about K2. I bought my K2 with ASA ring stucked. So I took away the bayonet ring, removed the old grease and lubricated the ring with thr silicon grease. Now the ring moves very smooth.

[Cuthbert]

Good to hear..do you have pics of the surgery?

[Vova]

Hello

I'm not sure if I took some pictures. I'll check that but there is really nothing difficult to disassemble and reassemble. You can make some notes about rings position while unscrewing the rings and then just put everything back

[arnold]

You simply change the speed manually as needed, the same way AE would do it automatically.
It's easy to do this quickly in a camera with a full exposure information viewfinder,
since you need never take your eye from the viewfinder.

My thoughts on this is that too much semi-automation just gets in the way when I have to appraise all my previous settings. I shoot faster with either manual, or fully point and shoot. My favourites are MX or KX. Preset your speed or aperture and do final tuning with your eye to the viewfinder. For street shooting, you can set up all three variables before hand. 1) Focus at expected distance, 2) speed and 3) aperture for expected light conditions. Easy as 1,2,3.