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05-27-2008, 11:08 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by APEHAUS Quote
What baffles me is how it occurs on the emulsion side, and why only towards the end of the roll.
This makes me think that perhaps the problem lies with the take up spool. As the film winds on to it and the diameter increases,perhaps the film is making contact with something. You haven't said but does the scratch become more pronounced as you approach the end of the film?

05-27-2008, 11:12 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by pixelsaurus Quote
This makes me think that perhaps the problem lies with the take up spool. As the film winds on to it and the diameter increases,perhaps the film is making contact with something. You haven't said but does the scratch become more pronounced as you approach the end of the film?

Yes, I had mentioned that the scratch begins towards the middle/end of the roll. In the 36 exposure roll I developed, it started around frame 17, all the way to 36.

I did swab all the surfaces where the film might pass with a cotton swab and I loaded a new roll of T-Max. I'll develop it tomorrow and see if anything comes up. Also, when it's rewinding, I'm going to make sure and not apply any additional pressure to the back of the camera (ie, my normal death grip).
05-28-2008, 02:49 AM   #18
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You squeegeeing the film off?
05-28-2008, 11:37 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
You squeegeeing the film off?

It's scratched when it comes out of the camera, so it happens, I think, during the rewinding process.

05-28-2008, 10:59 PM   #20
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Okay, tired another roll of t-max 400, SAME THING! At frame 17, the lines occur, though oddly enough, these seem closer together. I showed my photo instructor and he checked out the camera. He suggested that maybe it was some sort of light leak, and not something physically damaging the film. He gave me a roll of Ilford HP5 (24-exp) to try out. Not one single line... it came out perfectly. So I'm back to being baffled. Temporary solution: shoot to frame 16 on the t-max 400.

Maybe I just need another camera.
05-29-2008, 12:32 AM   #21
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Try a good CLA first, and show the technician a few examples of scratched/marred rolls so that s/he has a good idea of what to look for.
05-29-2008, 07:23 AM   #22
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Yes, perhaps you do need another camera. However, I would not rule out another ZX-M. I never had any problems with my previous ZX-M, and have just loaded my first roll into my new ZX-M. If you wish, I can get back you in regard to my results with the new ZX-M. Incidentally, I have also owned a Nikon N80 (same as the F80). This camera did, indeed, have a problem with scratching film. I have discussed this problem with other N80/F80 owners.
05-29-2008, 10:53 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by christinelandon Quote
Try a good CLA first, and show the technician a few examples of scratched/marred rolls so that s/he has a good idea of what to look for.

Yes, that's the key, to be able to line up the scratches with any possible culprit in the camera.

But if the CLA is more than $50, another ZX-M is probably cheaper...

05-29-2008, 10:55 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by zx-m Quote
Incidentally, I have also owned a Nikon N80 (same as the F80). This camera did, indeed, have a problem with scratching film. I have discussed this problem with other N80/F80 owners.

Good to hear. I definitely had a love/hate relationship with the F80. Build quality was otherwise top notch.

It has made me desire an MZ-S ever since -- the closest 35mm camera Pentax ever built.
05-29-2008, 01:12 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by filmamigo Quote
Yes, that's the key, to be able to line up the scratches with any possible culprit in the camera.

But if the CLA is more than $50, another ZX-M is probably cheaper...
Yeah, I paid $50 for the body AND a SMC-A 50mm f/2.0 lens off of eBay.
05-29-2008, 01:20 PM   #26
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I agree with your comments, filmamigo. I had two N80s, and I know what you mean. Only one seemed to scratch the film, though.

Yes, the MZ-S is a fine contemporary body. I might perhaps prefer the MZ-S to the N80, but the F100 beats both. I still own a mint condition F100. It is my only AF body at this point. Depending upon how things continue to progress with my Spot F and screwmount lenses, I may sell the F100.

Apehaus: perhaps that is why you paid only $50, as the body is problematic. That price is quite low for a ZX-M and 2.0 lens. It seems there are few true bargains on eBay these days. I believe that in the last year I have bought only 1 or 2 items off of eBay that would classify as genuine bargains.

If you opt for a CLA, send it to Eric. He charges $68. I would rather give Eric the $68, than spend $50 elsewhere. Actually, I would probably just look for a mint (or even new) ZX-M body. I bought a new ZX-M a couple of weeks ago for $159--yes, brand new. There are still a few around.

Glen

Last edited by zx-m; 05-29-2008 at 01:26 PM.
05-29-2008, 07:20 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by zx-m Quote
snip...
Apehaus: perhaps that is why you paid only $50, as the body is problematic. That price is quite low for a ZX-M and 2.0 lens. It seems there are few true bargains on eBay these days. I believe that in the last year I have bought only 1 or 2 items off of eBay that would classify as genuine bargains.

If you opt for a CLA, send it to Eric. He charges $68. I would rather give Eric the $68, than spend $50 elsewhere. Actually, I would probably just look for a mint (or even new) ZX-M body. I bought a new ZX-M a couple of weeks ago for $159--yes, brand new. There are still a few around.

Glen
Thanks, Glen. Though now I'm puzzled why the Ilford film came out fine, yet the Kodak stuff is messed up... the only difference is 36 vs. 24 exposures...
05-29-2008, 08:45 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by APEHAUS Quote
Thanks, Glen. Though now I'm puzzled why the Ilford film came out fine, yet the Kodak stuff is messed up... the only difference is 36 vs. 24 exposures...
Extra pressure on the rollers?
05-30-2008, 03:22 AM   #29
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I remember I've had cameras with issues that come up with 36 exposure rolls... think about the cartridge and take up spool as a pulley system. The more film on the take up spool, the larger the diameter of this 'pulley', and the more leverage your winding has.

Conversely, as you start to rewind, the now empty cartridge is first a small roller moving a large one - there's a lot of resistance and tension on the film at this point. Ie. your scratch may be starting at exposure 38 and ending at 17... and you get it during rewind.
05-30-2008, 05:14 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
Conversely, as you start to rewind, the now empty cartridge is first a small roller moving a large one - there's a lot of resistance and tension on the film at this point. Ie. your scratch may be starting at exposure 38 and ending at 17... and you get it during rewind.
I was wondering the same thing. It's a pain in the rear, but it might be worth pulling the film out of the camera before rewinding to see if the scratch is there or not.
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