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02-05-2015, 11:10 AM - 1 Like   #31
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If you're just looking for manual control, the K1000 does it nicely with its easy center-the-needle meter.

If you would like an "Automatic" mode which sets shutter speed (AV mode on modern cameras), the K2, ME, and ME Super will do it with no need for an A-series lens. The K2 and ME Super also allow full manual control, though the ME Super uses the up-down buttons for shutter speed instead of a dial/knob.

The K1000 is just a needle-meter. The KX and K2 are match-needle meters. The rest are LED (P3 is LCD). All but the K1000 show aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder one way or another.

The KX, KM, K1000, and MX are mechanical (clockwork) shutters. The rest are electronically-timed shutters. These use the light-meter cell to charge a capacitor which is then used to power an electro-magnet which holds the second shutter open for the duration of the capacitor's charge. This means they don't work if the battery is dead, except for their manual flash-sync shutter speeds. It also means some models (ME) are "stepless" in automatic mode, meaning the shutter speed is whatever fraction of a second is correct for the exposure instead of being bound to the eleven options on the dial.

The ME only does AV mode - no manual shutter speed control except 1/100 which it uses for flash sync. For perfect exposure, a properly working ME is hard to beat.

The later Program models like the Program Plus and P models like the P3 allow Program mode which chooses both aperture and shutter speed, but Program mode requires A-series lenses.

The K1000 has a split-prism focusing screen, as does the MX, ME, ME Super, Program Plus, and P3 (SE models have diagonal split-prism).

The KX and K2 are microprism-ring focusing screens.

There are other features which vary from one model to the next, such as DOF Preview, Mirror Lock-Up, Exposure-Compensation, Exposure Memory Lock, expanded ASA range, TTL Flash capability, and external FP flashbulb sync.

The later ZX and SF cameras feature auto-focus and hyper-program modes, similar to modern DSLRs.

Unless you are really into the anachronism of the Spotmatic cameras, I'd stick to the K & M bodies. You can still use M42 lenses on your K-body with your adapter.

*This is only based on the K/M/P/Z/SF models I have. Maybe the best thing to do is get one of each and discover which one you like the most.


Last edited by AquaDome; 02-05-2015 at 11:13 AM. Reason: fix typo
02-05-2015, 01:08 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by AquaDome Quote

Unless you are really into the anachronism of the Spotmatic cameras, I'd stick to the K & M bodies. You can still use M42 lenses on your K-body with your adapter.
What is more anachronistic in a Spotmatic F when it's compared to a K1000 and a KM? BTW, M42 lenses used on K bodies must be stepped down.
02-05-2015, 07:32 PM   #33
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Anachronism? talking about those thing among a group of luddite nerds is kinda funny
02-05-2015, 11:39 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Granted this earlier article was not hands on and that they were able to verify in their lab that the K2 was brighter using actual scientific methods.

I also have the September 1975 Popular Photography that has a similar first look at the Pentax bayonet mount as Modern Photography - apparently they were at the Tokyo release show, but their article doesn't mention much about the viewfinder. Pop Photo probably had a more thorough review in a later publication but I don't have that. If someone has it and can share that would be great.
A Pentax brochure I have from 1975, indicates the K2 has “A brighter viewfinder, thanks to a newly silver-coated pentaprism: larger instant return mirror for brighter reflection.”

The above is not listed under the KX or KM.

Phil.

02-06-2015, 04:15 PM   #35
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Phil, That must be the same brochure that Cuthbert posted at -> K Series brochure except this also included the K1000.
02-06-2015, 04:52 PM - 1 Like   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Phil, That must be the same brochure that Cuthbert posted at -> K Series brochure except this also included the K1000.
Yep very close.

I have two K Series ones, the earlier one from 1975 (KM, KX & K2) is a fold-up and the later 1976 one (KM, KX, K2 & K1000, is a booklet.

Phil.
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02-07-2015, 01:30 PM   #37
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A silver coating will be around 10% more reflective than an aluminised coating but will tarnish with age - I'm not sure how they fare in the real world though. Re. the auto/manual comments above, often we meter for the shady areas (or a particular zone if you really know your onions - not me!) so an uncoupled meter like on the K1000 or MX is handy as it is easy enough to set shutter speed and aperture, but you don't have to mess about with any exposure lock stuff if your subject is lighter (or darker) than you'd like. On the other hand if you are just trying to get a few snaps, an auto setting of any sort can be handy, and some cameras like my Super Program have a wheel that lets you choose to under or over expose against what the light meter is dictating. Might as well use it uncoupled if you go that far really though.
02-09-2015, 04:29 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
, I don't know why but it looks less bulky than the K1000, feels smaller.
It is smaller.


Steve

02-10-2015, 03:48 PM   #39
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I'd suggest a K mount over M42 (more recent bodies/lenses and Super-Tak/SMC-Tak lenses are generally more expensive to buy).

As far as bodies go, I'd recommend a mechanical one, probably a K1000 or MX, which I've found are much more plentiful and more recent than KM/KXs. The LX is the best but at a cost (and possibly would require a CLA too).

John.
02-12-2015, 08:55 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by AquaDome Quote
If you're just looking for manual control, the K1000 does it nicely with its easy center-the-needle meter.

If you would like an "Automatic" mode which sets shutter speed (AV mode on modern cameras), the K2, ME, and ME Super will do it with no need for an A-series lens. The K2 and ME Super also allow full manual control, though the ME Super uses the up-down buttons for shutter speed instead of a dial/knob.

The K1000 is just a needle-meter. The KX and K2 are match-needle meters. The rest are LED (P3 is LCD). All but the K1000 show aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder one way or another.

The KX, KM, K1000, and MX are mechanical (clockwork) shutters. The rest are electronically-timed shutters. These use the light-meter cell to charge a capacitor which is then used to power an electro-magnet which holds the second shutter open for the duration of the capacitor's charge. This means they don't work if the battery is dead, except for their manual flash-sync shutter speeds. It also means some models (ME) are "stepless" in automatic mode, meaning the shutter speed is whatever fraction of a second is correct for the exposure instead of being bound to the eleven options on the dial.

The ME only does AV mode - no manual shutter speed control except 1/100 which it uses for flash sync. For perfect exposure, a properly working ME is hard to beat.

The later Program models like the Program Plus and P models like the P3 allow Program mode which chooses both aperture and shutter speed, but Program mode requires A-series lenses.

The K1000 has a split-prism focusing screen, as does the MX, ME, ME Super, Program Plus, and P3 (SE models have diagonal split-prism).

The KX and K2 are microprism-ring focusing screens.

There are other features which vary from one model to the next, such as DOF Preview, Mirror Lock-Up, Exposure-Compensation, Exposure Memory Lock, expanded ASA range, TTL Flash capability, and external FP flashbulb sync.

The later ZX and SF cameras feature auto-focus and hyper-program modes, similar to modern DSLRs.

Unless you are really into the anachronism of the Spotmatic cameras, I'd stick to the K & M bodies. You can still use M42 lenses on your K-body with your adapter.

*This is only based on the K/M/P/Z/SF models I have. Maybe the best thing to do is get one of each and discover which one you like the most.
Dude, that's hugely helpful. Thanks so much. I'd been pretty confused by all this discussion of battteries as I just assumed you always needed them..

---------- Post added 02-13-15 at 02:59 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by johnha Quote
I'd suggest a K mount over M42 (more recent bodies/lenses and Super-Tak/SMC-Tak lenses are generally more expensive to buy).

As far as bodies go, I'd recommend a mechanical one, probably a K1000 or MX, which I've found are much more plentiful and more recent than KM/KXs. The LX is the best but at a cost (and possibly would require a CLA too).

John.
Cheers John appreciate the suggestions
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