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10-10-2015, 06:24 PM   #1
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Filters...am I over them?

I took a few photos last week under (mostly) familiar circumstances. I was using a KX, which was CLA'd by Eric ~18 months ago, and which I use regularly with good results. I was shooting Tri-X, which is one of my two go-to films, and which I use regularly with good results. I was shooting in bright, late-morning to midday sunlight. Not ideal conditions, but I've done it before with generally good results.
The wild card was a yellow filter, which I do not regularly use.
Most -but not all- of my photos came out way overexposed. IThey were all washed out and pale. I was relying on the KX meter, which I have since compared to three other cameras I know to meter correctly, and it agreed with them.
Could the yellow filter have somehow fooled the light meter?
FWIW, the Tri-X was from a B&H order. I've used other rolls from the same order that turned out fine.
Any ideas?

ETA: the film was lab processed, at the same lab I've been using, with good results.


Last edited by Lenscap; 10-10-2015 at 06:31 PM.
10-10-2015, 08:39 PM   #2
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I don't think it's the filter - I would be surprised if it is determined to be the problem. Have you checked how "snappy" the aperture lever of your lens is? When I hear of consistently overexposed images, one of my first suspects is sticky/oily aperture blades which tends to happen with older lenses.
Good luck,
Daryl
10-10-2015, 09:18 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by darylk Quote
I don't think it's the filter - I would be surprised if it is determined to be the problem. Have you checked how "snappy" the aperture lever of your lens is? When I hear of consistently overexposed images, one of my first suspects is sticky/oily aperture blades which tends to happen with older lenses.
Good luck,
Daryl
That makes perfect sense, except this is the same M50/1.7 I've been using with nothing less than stellar performance. I should have mentioned that in the OP.

It's certainly possible that the lens, or possibly the shutter, has developed a problem. If so, it was a sudden onset. The previous roll was Provia 100F, and it came out fine.

I should note that most rolls I shoot will have some clunkers, and it's nearly always my fault. In those cases, I know what's wrong and why. In this case, I'm baffled.

I have another roll loaded, and I'll see how it turns out.
10-11-2015, 10:48 AM   #4
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I hate to ask, but was the ISO setting proper? Provia = 100 ISO. Tri-X = 400 ISO. Two stops overexposed if you forget to change the setting on the camera.


Steve

10-11-2015, 03:29 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I hate to ask, but was the ISO setting proper? Provia = 100 ISO. Tri-X = 400 ISO. Two stops overexposed if you forget to change the setting on the camera.


Steve
Valid question, and yes it was set correctly. I checked because the same thought occurred to me.

The odd thing is, all the overexposed shots were taken at one location over the course of a couple of hours. Some others, taken on a different day, were slightly overexposed, with very little contrast. Still others looked about like I'd expect.
10-11-2015, 03:45 PM   #6
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"The odd thing is, all the overexposed shots were taken at one location over the course of a couple of hours."

Was it cold during that time period? If so, I suspect sticky aperture blades. If only a little oily, they may work fine in warmer temps, but act up when colder.

Daryl
10-11-2015, 03:53 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by darylk Quote
"The odd thing is, all the overexposed shots were taken at one location over the course of a couple of hours."

Was it cold during that time period? If so, I suspect sticky aperture blades. If only a little oily, they may work fine in warmer temps, but act up when colder.

Daryl
Nope, not cold. Temps in the 80's, I'd say, for all the shots on the roll.
10-11-2015, 08:13 PM   #8
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Is the rebate printing normal and uniform throughout the length of the film?

10-11-2015, 08:36 PM   #9
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A #3 Light Yellow filter (K/Y1) should have a filter factor of 1.5 (1/2 stop). #8 Medium Yellow (K/Y2) is one stop. A #15 Dark Yellow filter (K/Y3) would be 1 1/2 stop.

To quote Freestyle's filter tutorial "By far the most useful filter for black & white photography. This filter makes black & white photographs look like the real scene. Sky and clouds look natural, as do green plants and skin tones. Colors are rendered as proper shades of grey. The #8 Medium Yellow filter can be used probably 60% of the time for black & white photography. The Yellow filter is unique, because it lies in the middle of the visible spectrum, and makes everything look natural."
Black and White Filters Tutorial | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

Maybe the change in contrast makes the results seem overexposed to you?

Post some samples.
10-12-2015, 06:10 AM   #10
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Here's a sample.

---------- Post added 10-12-15 at 08:15 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
Is the rebate printing normal and uniform throughout the length of the film?
I don't have the negs back yet. I'll check when they arrive.
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10-12-2015, 09:44 AM   #11
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My guess it's the lab prints or scans that are the issue. If the lab did scans you can usually fix the lighting in PP.

Most of my lab B&W negative scans come back looking like your shot.

If you have a scanner try doing the scan yourself.

Phil.
10-12-2015, 10:14 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
My guess it's the lab prints or scans that are the issue. If the lab did scans you can usually fix the lighting in PP.

Most of my lab B&W negative scans come back looking like your shot.

If you have a scanner try doing the scan yourself.

Phil.
What I posted is a lab scan. I've used this lab for several rolls of B/W and I'm usually pleased with their scans, but they may have blown it on these. I'll take a look at the negatives when I get them back.
10-12-2015, 01:06 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lenscap Quote
I don't have the negs back yet. I'll check when they arrive.
Until then I'd suspect an anomaly with the lab's prints. But the negative will tell the whole story.

I shoot with colored filters all the time as I do a lot of BW film work. And indeed yellow is my most used filter. It is only one-stop penalty for my Pentax branded Y2 filter. And an orange is next. Red rarely as that usually requires a tripod because I shoot medium format and typically need to stop the lens down more to get DOF than you'd need to do on small format and that hurts my handhold shutter speeds.
10-12-2015, 05:13 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Until then I'd suspect an anomaly with the lab's prints. But the negative will tell the whole story.

I shoot with colored filters all the time as I do a lot of BW film work. And indeed yellow is my most used filter. It is only one-stop penalty for my Pentax branded Y2 filter. And an orange is next. Red rarely as that usually requires a tripod because I shoot medium format and typically need to stop the lens down more to get DOF than you'd need to do on small format and that hurts my handhold shutter speeds.
Mine is a Hoya, designated K2. Not sure what it's supposed to be, but according to my KX, my K2 and a K1000 I trust, it's a one-stop filter, as determined by filter on/filter off metering.

And, I don't mean to mislead; I've used this filter before with fine results. I just don't use it often.

A thought has occurred to me: I was not using a lens hood. Could the overhead sun have caused a... Not a flare, exactly, but a flare-like something off the filter? I don't know, I'm grasping at straws here.

As you say, the negatives will tell their own story.
10-13-2015, 10:58 AM   #15
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I always use a uv filter and a hood, even in gbag.

If you drop the camera the hood might take some of the damage.

The elephant looks underexposed to me but may just be the print.
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