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12-24-2015, 05:11 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by fwcetus Quote
Here's a couple pix of the "Battery Cord LX" -
Thanks for posting!

QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
That is a really nice accessory.
QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Can't say I have even seen one for sale! For a product that was available for a long time, accessories for the LX are sure hard to come by.
QuoteOriginally posted by K-Three Quote
Much of the LX accessories I only ever saw in the Pentax catalogs,
Yeah I've never seen one for the 35mm Pentax bodies, just the 6x7. (I have one and they are pretty easy to find)

Phil.

12-24-2015, 06:39 PM   #32
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The good old days. Yellowknife Bay, 1991. My friend became somewhat frustrated with his Nikon at about -25. He had kept it inside his parka, and it still cratered. I shot him with a Koni Omega 6x7. It was good to below -40.

12-24-2015, 06:51 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by John Poirier Quote
The good old days. Yellowknife Bay, 1991. My friend became somewhat frustrated with his Nikon at about -25. He had kept it inside his parka, and it still cratered. I shot him with a Koni Omega 6x7. It was good to below -40.

That camera that your friend is pulling the film out of is not a Nikon. It is a Canon New F-1 with a AE Finder FN viewfinder and AE Power Winder FN.

It looks freezing!
12-24-2015, 07:14 PM   #34
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The little rollei 35's were used on a lot of Everest expeditions. I'd guess that's a good indicator they can handle the cold.

12-24-2015, 07:23 PM   #35
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I have read warnings against using a motor drive in extreme cold.
Besides the obvious problem of the film becoming brittle and more easily tearing
static electricity can create "artifacts".

Chris
12-24-2015, 08:49 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
That camera that your friend is pulling the film out of is not a Nikon. It is a Canon New F-1 with a AE Finder FN viewfinder and AE Power Winder FN.

It looks freezing!
Thanks. It looks something like the F3 I used to have, but I didn't look closely. I estimate the temp was about -25C, based on the extent of icicles on the beard. Actually rather mild for Yellowknife winter in those days.

---------- Post added 12-24-2015 at 08:04 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
I have read warnings against using a motor drive in extreme cold.
Besides the obvious problem of the film becoming brittle and more easily tearing
static electricity can create "artifacts".

Chris
Yes, the relative humidity can be quite low in extreme cold particularly indoors in buildings without humidifiers. Walking across a carpet, then zapping an unsuspecting victim can be quite amusing. I would never do that, of course.

I occasionally ran into static issues outdoors even with film slowly hand-cranked. Looks sort of like little lightning discharges along the film.

Film brittleness varies depending on type of film. Some films would snap at the slightest excuse, others were much more robust. Can't remember the bad ones specifically.

The breaks usually happen when starting a roll, where the film is curved rather sharply in the takeup reel. Often you just lose the end of the leader, so things can be salvaged by warming the remainder of the leader with bare fingers then trying again. Provided you can do so without incurring frostbite. I rarely snapped a film in mid roll.
That took very extreme cold and a particularly brittle film base.
12-25-2015, 08:01 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
That camera that your friend is pulling the film out of is not a Nikon. It is a Canon New F-1 with a AE Finder FN viewfinder and AE Power Winder FN.

It looks freezing!
Correct!

http://satnam.ca/cameras/Canonf1worldbook1.pdf

Go to page 66 and 67, the F-1N was supposed to work down to -30 deg.
12-25-2015, 09:28 AM   #38
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Not an appropriate camera for this thead's purpose, but here's a Leica MP working at -40ēC.

I'd go with a couple of Trip 35s, kept in inside pockets and taken out and used in turn. We get ~ -27ēC here some days in Nova Scotia and I've had no problems taking cameras of any sort outside briefly to record something.

12-27-2015, 01:49 AM   #39
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Edmund Hillary used an early Kodak Retina with great success when he first climbed Mt Everest.
12-28-2015, 10:52 PM - 1 Like   #40
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Argus Cosina STL1000

I spent a lot of years in the cold arctic as well as some very hot places and this camera never let me down!! I remember taking a shot of the thermometer at -57F - but haven't seen that slide for a long time.

My original one that I bought in 1974 is now completely worn out - probably has a shutter count over 25,000 trips.

I have a newer one - to me - that is just like new. They can be picked up on the auction sites pretty reasonable. Being universal screwmount there is a multitude of lenses available. I only carried 2 lenses at that time - Cosina 50 f1.7 and a 90 - 230 Albinar zoom. Both lenses have a pretty good reputation.

My Spotties pretty much packed it in about -30F - the SPII was a bit better than the SP.

Some tips;

1. - Wherever possible keep the camera at the same temperature - warming and freezing cycles cause condensation and uneven operation of the mechanicals. The Argus had a idiosyncratic habit of hanging the shutter for a second when going from warm to cold - ie- -40F. Once the shutter cycled this first time the camera operated flawless until warmed back up and then put back in the cold. (Guess it was grumpy - like me) Since this most often happened for the first shot of the day I tried to always have a fresh loaded film for the first shot and leave the winder on " Pre-Zero" so the first shot of the day didn't matter. Otherwise I just sacrificed one frame. BTW - this was one of the first camera to have the Copal Metal Square Shutter - it's a bit noisy but works well.

2. - Always return your lens focus back to infinity - if for some reason your lens freezes it is usually most effective there. I have never shot an autofocus lens in extreme cold so can't comment on those lenses. Even on my K3II in cold weather I go all manual.

3. - Never force anything - if it is supposed to move and doesn't - don't break it!! Take it somewhere warm and dry and figure out what might be the problem. Often a night with the camera left wide open in a warm dry area will solve the problem. Operate with a degree of sensitivity - clearances tighten up in the cold - lubricants get pretty stiff. I always tried to operate everything at "Half-speed" - at least until I knew everything was working.

4. - Film - I used whatever was available from Kodachrome to Fuji to generic and had very little trouble with any of it. I used both 24 and 36 exp lengths depending on what I had planned for shooting - if I was unsure of being able to shoot a full 36 roll then I would use a 24. That way when I got back to base (We lived in tent camps back then) I didn't have to waste a half roll of 36 to finish up what I had and then get it processed.

5. If you know that you are going from a very cold temp to a warm moist one bag the camera - twist tie the ends and allow the camera to come up to temperature inside the dry air in the plastic bag - it's a small thing but can allow you to shoot the next day without problems. Same with your lenses. All my camera gear lives in plastic bags!!

6. Test everything - deep freezes can go pretty cold - but if you use then make sure you bag the camera and lenses - and only test in the bag - allow to warm up in the bag before opening. Even with a big bag you can manipulate anything through the bag - I have changed frozen films to test how the camera loads with stiff film etc. Check your lenses for operation and you will also develop a feel for the camera when it is that cold.

I have a wonderful photo collection of my time spent in the arctic as an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer - and some of those everyday photos are now documenting "The way things were".

I wish her every success - it's a tough racket - but having spent more than 40 years doing it - I wouldn't change very much.

Regards,
PC
12-29-2015, 07:16 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Photochucker Quote
Argus Cosina STL1000
I bought one of those last fall and have really enjoyed using it, despite having to use a knife to pry up the rewind knob whenever I need to reload (the camera has a visible dent in the top plate over the pentaprism, even though the seller rated it as "ex/ex+" condition). Also the light seals have gone sticky, but still seem to perform well. The m42 mount is actually better than my spotmatics at 'finding' the thread right off the bat, without spinning the lens round-and-round. It's a heavy beast, feels good in the hands, not so good on the shoulder. Might have to test out its cold-weather capabilities this winter.

Last edited by dsmithhfx; 12-29-2015 at 08:07 AM. Reason: sp & gramer
12-29-2015, 08:04 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by John Poirier Quote
My most reliable mechanical SLRs have been bodies with Copal Square shutters. I have a Ricoh XR1-s that worked beautifully below -40. It was my main cold weather body for 15 years
I have a plain-jane XR-1 (no s), so I shall bear this in mind when considering film in cold weather. Thank you!
12-29-2015, 08:58 AM - 1 Like   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by bobbotron Quote
A good friend of mine has become an aircraft mechanic in the Northwest Territories, around 65° N. I'd like to send her a care package, and include a film camera for her to document some of the things she gets up to up there. This will probably be a one way mission for the camera, so I don't want to send anything to precious, but thankfully there were so many 35mm cameras made I think I can find something that will take decent photos for not too much $$$. Suggestions? I'm thinking either a cheaper point and shoot 35mm like a PC35 AF-M SE, a pentax ME, a old spotmatic, or some other brand's cheap and cheery SLR.

I'd send her my Petri Racer, but it is SO annoying to load. :P

Thoughts?
Just curious here but what is your friends experience level with Photography? It may help narrow down the best option. Theres been alot of great suggestions here, but I'm not sure anything will be a good choice if she is not familar with film camera's, especially manual ones. Its hard enough dealing with the temperature factors but adding the" Learning New Gear" or" learning how to shoot in sub zero" factor maybe a royal frustration.

al
12-29-2015, 09:23 AM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by brewmaster15 Quote
I'm not sure anything will be a good choice if she is not familar with film cameras, especially manual ones. Its hard enough dealing with the temperature factors but adding the" Learning New Gear" or" learning how to shoot in sub zero" factor maybe a royal frustration.

al
This. My advice is for a fixed lens p+s with relatively fast, decent lens (e.g. stylus epic, if it must be film). The epic's 'clamshell' design is well-sealed and easy to slide in and out of pockets to keep (it) warm in between snapshots. Auto-exposure, auto focus, on-board flash, self-loading, film advance and rewind, dx setting. May not work in extreme conditions, but compromises (I've found it a good year-round shooter).
12-29-2015, 03:14 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
This. My advice is for a fixed lens p+s with relatively fast, decent lens (e.g. stylus epic, if it must be film). The epic's 'clamshell' design is well-sealed and easy to slide in and out of pockets to keep (it) warm in between snapshots. Auto-exposure, auto focus, on-board flash, self-loading, film advance and rewind, dx setting. May not work in extreme conditions, but compromises (I've found it a good year-round shooter).

I agree, the Olympus Stylus Epic (mju II) would be a good choice.
It's simpler than an SLR, weatherproof and will fit in a warm pocket.
Those lithium batteries would be an advantage in the cold, too.

Chris
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