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04-20-2016, 11:45 PM   #1
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Pentax MG, camera-door seal desintegrating

Hi,

A few days ago i got a MG with Sigma lens for a few bucks..
The machine is quite dirty, a bit scratched but without dents.
The door-seal starts to desintegrate/crumble.

Anyone here suggestions or links for a repair and a clean in d.i.y.?
Is some sort of testing possible for it (shutterspeed)?

Thank you!
lowlandspentax
(no, i could not preorder the new K-1 , but am open for a gift! )


Last edited by lowlandspentax; 04-21-2016 at 12:07 AM. Reason: added question
04-21-2016, 02:10 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by lowlandspentax Quote
Hi,

A few days ago i got a MG with Sigma lens for a few bucks..
The machine is quite dirty, a bit scratched but without dents.
The door-seal starts to desintegrate/crumble.

Anyone here suggestions or links for a repair and a clean in d.i.y.?
Is some sort of testing possible for it (shutterspeed)?

Thank you!
lowlandspentax
(no, i could not preorder the new K-1 , but am open for a gift! )
Hi,
Where are you?
Regards.
04-21-2016, 03:09 AM - 1 Like   #3
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Posts: 364
Hi

Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions

You need to replace the door seals and the mirror seal.
The shutter may be ok, try a film after you do seals.
The shutter is dependent on the lube not being wax or having ingested too much foam debris.
I just use scissors mouse mat foam and double sided pressure sensitive tape.
But Jon's kits are real quality.
04-23-2016, 12:13 AM   #4
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Original Poster
Thank you Xmas for that interesting and helpfull link!

No one can point me to advice to clean the outside of the cam?
I searched on the forum but did not find a topic/advice on this.
It did not belong to a pentaxlover, and is quite greasy, dusty and stained.
A tiny bit of rust below the backside door and black paint shaved off the metal base on multiple spots.
I would be intended to use Q-tips and lighter fuel (as a solvent), but do not know this (the fuel) will harm.
Will some repainting of the body be durable?

To Jon's site: he is offering a pre-cut pack for the Pentax ME, am i right this will not fit to my MG (because the bodies differ)?
I cannot compare to a ME as i do not have one.

Thank you,
lowlandspentax

04-23-2016, 12:24 AM   #5
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Contact Jon Goodman and see if you need a different kit for the MG.

Use caution when cleaning with lighter fluid as it can work as a mild polish. A flew times I've turned a nice matte patina into a mirror smooth surface while cleaning with lighter fluid. Then you have to polish all the surfaces to get them to match.

Since you are in the US you could send the camera to Eric Hendrickson who will replace the seals, clean, lubricate and adjust the mechanics as well as clean and refurbish the exterior.

Estimating
04-23-2016, 06:02 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by lowlandspentax Quote
Thank you Xmas for that interesting and helpfull link!

No one can point me to advice to clean the outside of the cam?
I searched on the forum but did not find a topic/advice on this.
It did not belong to a pentaxlover, and is quite greasy, dusty and stained.
A tiny bit of rust below the backside door and black paint shaved off the metal base on multiple spots.
I would be intended to use Q-tips and lighter fuel (as a solvent), but do not know this (the fuel) will harm.
Will some repainting of the body be durable?

To Jon's site: he is offering a pre-cut pack for the Pentax ME, am i right this will not fit to my MG (because the bodies differ)?
I cannot compare to a ME as i do not have one.

Thank you,
lowlandspentax
The degenerate foam may have damaged the paint, a wooden scraper is needed on softened foam, it is well difficult to remove even with zippo swabs of cotton waste.
Zippo is normally safe on paint but try and keep it out of innards or on optics.
You can use zippo on chrome but not on the plastic or leatherette covering it can upset the adhesive holding the cover on.

I just clean the interior of the camera as dust can get on film. Don't often clean optics. My SP has right bad rust and pits... The colours of the wind on and meter switch barely detectable, Mirror coating lifting but still does nice exposures. And is easy to use...

I only bought it for its lens, but it is nicer camera to hand than a K1000!

Don't bother replacing covers myself, nor repainting bare metal.

If there is foam on the prism under the top plate it can damage the prism.

Try a film in case you have a shutter or other problem after refoam, a trip to repair person is frequently more expensive than a second body.

I just cut foam from a mouse mat and use double sided pressure sensitive tape you only need scissors or a craft knife and straight edge. Real easy!
04-24-2016, 01:15 AM   #7
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Original Poster
Hi,

Repairs by Eric at a price, when i include p&p to my site, will not be the best choice for my MG, which seems not be one of the beloved pentaxes and scores quite low in 2nd hand value.
I guess i will have to rely on doing the job myself, or keeping the camera as-is, apart from the sponge seals to be replaced as they will cause damage to the camera or spoil films shot.

Refubbing by Eric will be very good for precious or costly pentaxes though.

Thanks,
lowlandspentax
04-24-2016, 01:20 AM   #8
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Don't bother with seal kits, get a larger piece of foam and cut it yourself with a guillotine. It's easy and and much cheaper as one piece of foam will provide enough for man cameras, and spares in case you make a mess changing the foam the first time. Sheets of foam are available on ebay, as it the denser foam needed for mirror bumpers.

04-24-2016, 04:13 AM   #9
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I prefer Jon Goodman's seal kits. They're economical, excellent quality, and come with a comprehensive set of instructions.

For removing light corrosion, I like to use a toothpick and WD-40. I will blunt the tip of the toothpick, dip it into some WD-40 that I've sprayed onto a paper plate, so I have a small pool of it, and then just scrub at the corrosion with the blunted tip of the toothpick. As long as the corrosion is fairly light, this will usually remove it. Naphtha (lighter fluid) also works well.
04-25-2016, 07:46 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Don't bother with seal kits, get a larger piece of foam and cut it yourself with a guillotine.
Yes, it is possible to cut your own. I have done it in the past and by the time you secure the foam (most cameras require more than one thickness and type) and tools to cut it with, you might as well have bought the kit (see below).

QuoteOriginally posted by cooltouch Quote
I prefer Jon Goodman's seal kits. They're economical...
Yes, very economical...the last time I bought one, he charged $10 USD including postage.*

I too prefer Jon's kits. His materials are first rate and precision cut. He also provides the appropriate thicknesses and foam types for each part of the camera. The bamboo "tool" he includes is much more useful than it may appear leaving you to supply forceps/tweezers, lighter fluid, and a steady hand to do the job. To top it all off, his instructions are first rate.

Oh...and I might add that Jon is one of the nicest and best people you will ever do business with.


Steve

* Jon has an associate in Britain who sells his kits and materials there and in Europe. I have no idea what the price is there.
04-30-2016, 04:16 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by lowlandspentax Quote
Hi,

Repairs by Eric at a price, when i include p&p to my site, will not be the best choice for my MG, which seems not be one of the beloved pentaxes and scores quite low in 2nd hand value.
I guess i will have to rely on doing the job myself, or keeping the camera as-is, apart from the sponge seals to be replaced as they will cause damage to the camera or spoil films shot.

Refubbing by Eric will be very good for precious or costly pentaxes though.

Thanks,
lowlandspentax
The MG is a low cost version of the ME. I have had a look inside with the bottom plate removed, and was not impressed; too many stamped tin parts. Even the ME Super suffers bending in this regard. You are better saving a restoration for a more durable Pentax from the earlier years, pre 1982. The MX and LX are always worth the effort regardless of when they were made. The earlier ME, being simpler than the Super model may also be worth a repair, but electronics is unpredictable.
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