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04-29-2016, 07:05 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Well you can't go wrong with Kodak Portra. It's a low contrast film that gives you relatively "flat" colors which makes it much easier to work with. Which did you get - 160, 400 or 800?

In any case they have huge latitude that allows you to err on the overexposure side by quite a bit as can be seen in the exposure test I did below.

Kodak Portra 400



What this means is that on a single frame, you can recover underexposed and overexposed areas in a pic such as shown below.

Kodak Portra 400



Once you are comfortable knowing the exposure latitude of these films you can take advantage of it. For instance in the scene below, my camera meter indicated a "correct" exposure of 1/60 but I wanted 1/2 (5 stops overexposure) to smooth out the stream. So I took it knowing that I can still get good results.

Kodak Ektar 100



Also, there are no reciprocity issues when conducting very long exposures.

Kodak Portra 800 > 5 minutes



Kodak Portra 160 is a tad less grainy then 400 and 800.

Kodak Portra 160
I got 160. It is going to be a sunny day tomorrow. I see I have a lot to learn...

04-30-2016, 03:31 AM   #32
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Hi

Just set the meter ISO to 80 and shoot away.

Noel
05-01-2016, 07:28 PM   #33
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My Back to the Film adventure was an interesting experience. Of course I ran into the problem that I should've foreseen. The last time I picked up my MZ-7 some 10 years ago, I used FA-J lenses with it. Yesterday I tried to use an M42 lens, and I wasn't sure how to go about it. I should've read up on it, but I just assumed it would work like it does on my K-5. The problem is I won't find out until it's too late. So there is no focus confirmation, which is fine, but I am not sure if it is metering properly when I put it in the AV mode. I was looking at the shutter speed, and it looked reasonable... I did a quick search for how to used M42 lenses with MZ-7, but haven't found anything useful. I would appreciate any advice!
05-02-2016, 06:07 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
In any case they have huge latitude that allows you to err on the overexposure side by quite a bit as can be seen in the exposure test I did below.

Kodak Portra 400
Thanks for sharing that. I always hear about Portra's exposure latitude (and have experienced it), but I've never seen it shown quite so effectively. Impressive!

05-03-2016, 06:40 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
My Back to the Film adventure was an interesting experience. Of course I ran into the problem that I should've foreseen. The last time I picked up my MZ-7 some 10 years ago, I used FA-J lenses with it. Yesterday I tried to use an M42 lens, and I wasn't sure how to go about it. I should've read up on it, but I just assumed it would work like it does on my K-5. The problem is I won't find out until it's too late. So there is no focus confirmation, which is fine, but I am not sure if it is metering properly when I put it in the AV mode. I was looking at the shutter speed, and it looked reasonable... I did a quick search for how to used M42 lenses with MZ-7, but haven't found anything useful. I would appreciate any advice!
I bought a SP for my M42 lens.
Wanted a S1a but they seem to be more rare.
05-03-2016, 02:54 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
I bought a SP for my M42 lens.
Wanted a S1a but they seem to be more rare.

With or without a working exposure meter an SP/SPII/SP500/SP1000 body is more convenient to use than earlier models.
For DOF preview the meter/stopdown switch on the body is faster and much easier to use than the lens auto/manual switch.

Chris
05-03-2016, 11:01 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
With or without a working exposure meter an SP/SPII/SP500/SP1000 body is more convenient to use than earlier models.
For DOF preview the meter/stopdown switch on the body is faster and much easier to use than the lens auto/manual switch.

Chris
The lens I use is an auto takumar semi automatic, you need to set the lens open.
The SP is a lot smoother than my K1000s.
I only need a S1a for nostalgia sold mine in '76.
Noel
05-03-2016, 11:30 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by IgorZ Quote
My Back to the Film adventure was an interesting experience. Of course I ran into the problem that I should've foreseen. The last time I picked up my MZ-7 some 10 years ago, I used FA-J lenses with it. Yesterday I tried to use an M42 lens, and I wasn't sure how to go about it. I should've read up on it, but I just assumed it would work like it does on my K-5. The problem is I won't find out until it's too late. So there is no focus confirmation, which is fine, but I am not sure if it is metering properly when I put it in the AV mode. I was looking at the shutter speed, and it looked reasonable... I did a quick search for how to used M42 lenses with MZ-7, but haven't found anything useful. I would appreciate any advice!
Well, they are easy to use but you loose some handy tools compared to normal K-lenses.
Since there is no coupling at all, you need to use the aperture-ring before each exposure and it is easiest to let the camera do the measuring. Just put it in auto and it will take the average light. This is then AV.
You can also use manual and in that case you just switch the speed, in the viewfinder you will see how much you over or under expose and correct that as you like.
Actually you can use the AF on the MZ-7. Just turn it on and at the moment that it is sharp, it will take a picture if you keep depressing the shutter-button.

By the way make sure you have a good adapter and lens with clean steel. No coating since then the body will get some wrong lens-info but I believe that is the same for K-5.

05-04-2016, 06:46 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by elvinhaak Quote
Well, they are easy to use but you loose some handy tools compared to normal K-lenses.
Since there is no coupling at all, you need to use the aperture-ring before each exposure and it is easiest to let the camera do the measuring. Just put it in auto and it will take the average light. This is then AV.
You can also use manual and in that case you just switch the speed, in the viewfinder you will see how much you over or under expose and correct that as you like.
Actually you can use the AF on the MZ-7. Just turn it on and at the moment that it is sharp, it will take a picture if you keep depressing the shutter-button.

By the way make sure you have a good adapter and lens with clean steel. No coating since then the body will get some wrong lens-info but I believe that is the same for K-5.
Thanks for the advice! I was shooting in AV mode, but didn't know about the AF trick. looking forward to another weekend of film experience!
05-04-2016, 01:50 PM   #40
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I use B&W only with film. Usually Kodak Tri-X 400 or T-Max 100. Ilford films are pretty good as well and are readily available here in Texas. I develop my own and then scan for printing. Works pretty well. Haven't had a full wet darkroom for 5 years (at least).
05-05-2016, 12:36 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by jeverettfine Quote
I use B&W only with film. Usually Kodak Tri-X 400 or T-Max 100. Ilford films are pretty good as well and are readily available here in Texas. I develop my own and then scan for printing. Works pretty well. Haven't had a full wet darkroom for 5 years (at least).
Since I do have a darkroom that I can use... (better then scanning and computers)
When I want pure black and white, I use Rollei RPX 100 or mostly Rollei RPX400 with the special RPX-D developer. It is usable to 1600 ASA without too much grain this way, sometimes even higher to 3200 or 6400 ASA if needed but then the quality is poor.
That is in 35mm and for 120 film. In the higher ASA's (ISO's) with 35mm I don't make big prints though.

When I want maybe or also colour, I use Rollei CN200 film. This is a clear Color Negative film without the reddish mask. So it can easely be scanned but also - a big favorite for me - printed under the enlarger with normal B&W multicontrast paper with good results.
And of course it can be printed using normal RA4 colour-paper as well. Of course it can be processed using a normal C-41 kit so I can do the developing myself in my darkroom.
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