[Jonson PL]

Thanks for your review, good info. Didn’t think how the FAJ lenses could be used on it, how does the on-body control of aperture work on the MZ-7 ?
And can other cams in the MZ-series do the same, like maybe MZ-6 / ZX-L ?

And how do you change aperture on *Ist DL, with only one wheel ? Is it just in Aperture Priority ? (since likely no Hyper-manual program, where it is possible to change both shutter and aperture)


And thanks for the info on "night portrait" being slow- sync; I noticed the upcoming K-m has the same icon.

Didn’t know the FAJ 18-35/4-5.6 AL was the kit lens for the original *Ist D.


Regarding the MZ-D, Pentax wasn’t satisfied with the sensor output, and didn’t bring it to the market. And good thing, the identical camera released from Contax made the company sink out of business.

Here are a couple shots of the MZ-7 fully kitted out with TTL flash, battery grip and Sigma 24-135 2.8-4.5 lens.


By davidwscott at 2008-07-13

How is the balance with big zoom and flash ? (you need the grip I guess)


Last question, do you generally prefer black manual focus film SLR bodies, to chrome ?

[clawhammer]

On the ZX-L, with lenses with no aperture ring, it acts the same as if you set the aperture to the 'A' setting. I usually shoot on Av mode, using the toggle switch that surrounds the shutter button to change the aperture. There is no HyP on any of the MZ/ZX cameras excepting the MZ-S. 

When in M mode, the toggle switch controls Shutter speed, and if you hold down the EV +/- button it controls aperture. I would image they've rigged a similar system for the DSLR's w/o dual wheels.

[filmamigo]

Thanks for your review, good info. Didn’t think how the FAJ lenses could be used on it, how does the on-body control of aperture work on the MZ-7 ? And how do you change aperture on *Ist DL, with only one wheel ? Is it just in Aperture Priority ? (since likely no Hyper-manual program, where it is possible to change both shutter and aperture)

Full manual control works the same way on the MZ-7 and the *ist DL, but the controls are placed a little differently.

The *ist DL has the single wheel on the back. The MZ-7 has the rocker switch around the trigger. (On the MZ-5 and the MZ-M, that rocker switch is the on/off. On the MZ-7, it behaves like the control wheel. You click the rocker in either direction.)

The default behaviour in Manual mode is for the wheel/rocker to control shutter speed. To control aperture, you hold down the "AV+/-" exposure compensation button, and move the wheel/rocker.

In Aperture Priority mode, the wheel/rocker defaults to aperture control.

In Shutter Priority (the cumbersomely named TV mode), the wheel/rocker defaults to shutter control.

I actually find this layout quite intuitive, and it negates most of the need for two buttons. (Yes, I've used a dual-wheel camera before -- my F80 had a nice dual-wheel setup that I enjoyed.)

And thanks for the info on "night portrait" being slow- sync; I noticed the upcoming K-m has the same icon.

Didn’t know the FAJ 18-35/4-5.6 AL was the kit lens for the original *Ist D.

Regarding the MZ-D, Pentax wasn’t satisfied with the sensor output, and didn’t bring it to the market. And good thing, the identical camera released from Contax made the company sink out of business.

How is the balance with big zoom and flash ? (you need the grip I guess)

Last question, do you generally prefer black manual focus film SLR bodies, to chrome ?

You definitely want the grip with a big zoom. That Sigma is HEAVY. On the bare MZ-7 it feels unsteady because the camera body is so small. The battery grip pushes the camera body squarely into my palm, making the camera feel stable with any size lens and flash.

With the FAJ 18-35, or the F 35-70, or the FA 28-90, I prefer the camera without the grip. It's nice and sleek with a small lens.

Lastly, yes, I do love black SLR bodies, for manual focus, auto focus and digital. Unfortunately the MZ-7 is scarce in black. Also, my *ist DL was ordered used from a dealer. I was surprised to find it was a chrome body, not black. But the body was mint with only a few exposures on it, and the price was great, so I decided not to quibble about the colour! So now my DL and MZ-7 match nicely. But I do wish they were both black. I have a beautiful black Spotmatic F, and my Program Plus is black. I think my ultimate SLR would be a black MZ-S...

[Jonson PL]

When in M mode, the toggle switch controls Shutter speed, and if you hold down the EV +/- button it controls aperture. I would image they've rigged a similar system for the DSLR's w/o dual wheels.

Thanks, sounds pretty easy then.
I just own the Z-1P and K10, so never tried a SLR with only one wheel. But from the explanation, it is just the same as using one of the dedicated short-cut bottoms on the K10; like pushing and holding down the OK bottom to quickly change the Iso setting.

[titrisol]

I just picked up one of these to replae a dead MZ-50
It seems tobe a better camera, nice metal mounting ring!

I found the AF to be quite slow with the 35-70 F mount and better with a Sigma 28-80
But I can only compare it to other camera of the same vintage (Nikon N90) which was way better. Also the K100D has improved it and it works fine.

Now, anyone knows if the SAFOX sensor could be dirty? any way to clean it?
Any tricks for the ZX-7?
Does anyone know how to make the roll rewidn leave the leader out?

[Ratmagiclady]

Thanks for this! I haven't heard too much about this range of cameras: one of my little goals with Pentax is to get hold of a decent AF film body, as a hedge against my recurring eye-fatigue problems ever getting any worse.

How's the AF perform in dimmish conditions, (without flash assist)?

(Come down to it, trustable accuracy is more important than speed, in this regard)

[k100d]

i think on my ZX-5n the AF is better than the K100D
certainly feels faster, perhaps due to the lithium batteries.

[Ratmagiclady]

i think on my ZX-5n the AF is better than the K100D
certainly feels faster, perhaps due to the lithium batteries.

I seem to have heard a bit about the AA batteries slowing down the af system on the digitals. I'm sure faster is better, but it sounds like the ZX line, that'd be acceptable for being-a-crutch purposes.

[titrisol]

I tested both the AAs and Lithiums this weekend AF was no different.
AF is working better after a few rolls and air blasting the SAFOX sensor

[Ratmagiclady]

Have to say that looks cute in chrome from here, but I'd rather an honest black than an unconvincing 'chrome' paint. Doesn't look very businesslike, generally. Some chrome finishes are really pretty, though.

It seems there was a period there when my chrome bodies would attract attention compared to the everything-black cheapies of the time, ...I think Pentax was trying to stand out a bit, then, too,

Not always a desireable thing, that, though. : )

[k100d]

i thought the chrome paint was a throwback to the classic cameras.

[titrisol]

The silverishly look is not bad, not chrome but not bad
and also having the PENTAX brand in there is a theft deterrent

[filmamigo]

How's the AF perform in dimmish conditions, (without flash assist)?

(Come down to it, trustable accuracy is more important than speed, in this regard)

Like any AF system I've used, in dim light you need to find a high contrast line to aim at. The only way to get consistently accurate results is with some kind of focus assist (that light on the Nikon bodies, or by strobing the flash.) However, I find that the Pentax AF won't lock on unless it is SURE. I get a higher percentage of in-focus shots from compared to my Nikon F80, but sometimes that means I am denied more shots when I press the shutter release and it can't lock on... No matter what camera, sometimes I just switch to manual focus to prevent hunting.

[AndrewG NY]

If you like the ZX-7 you'll like the ZX-L/MZ-6 even better. It adds depth-of-field preview in addition to the 1/4000 (1/125) vs 1/2000 (1/100) shutter, P-TTL/wireless flash (keeps TTL support), a (rather poorly implemented) spotmeter, autobracketing & custom functions.

If I could change anything it would be to make spotmeter available in Manual mode (as far as I can tell it only works if enabled via custom setting, and only when pressing AE-L in an AE mode). The second thing I might change would be to add a 2-second MLU self-timer.

Another similar and probably more underrated/undervalued body is the slightly older PZ-20. No DoF preview but does offer shiftable hypermanual/hyperprogram. It's usually black too, if that's important. Also has only single AF point, but who cares?

[titrisol]

Just for the sake of it I uploaded some pics taken with the MZ7 and the DA 18-55 (Kit) lens from the K100D
at 18

at 55

PS I just noticed the scans suck... they seem to be out of focus but the prints look good