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07-12-2016, 06:04 AM   #1
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K1000 seems to be winding rough

Hey guys, new to the forum here. Joined because I have a bit of a question here.

Recently I picked up a cheap k1000 to upgrade from my MG as my every day carry film setup. I really like my MG, much smaller and lighter than my Canon EOS 620 that I had been using as a film walk around (I'm a Canon digital shooter primarily, so that's why I picked that up initially) and have gotten some great pictures out of it. Picked up the Pentax on a whim at a local shop for $25, and after a roll, my only complaint was the lack of shutter speed adjustments, so when I came across the K1000 with a 135mm lens for $20 at a flea market this past week I picked it up, because it seemed to fit the bill.

Loaded a roll into it yesterday, and when I went to advance the film it seems off. I know the film is loaded properly, but when I advance the lever, it isn't nearly as smooth as any other camera I have owned, and much louder. Almost feels and sounds like gears or teeth are slipping as I wind it. Anyone know anything about this? I essentially shot 24 portraits of my dog and fiancée once I noticed that just to see if the film advanced through correctly and will be finding out shortly if it worked. But if it's an issue I can repair, or do something to prevent losing a roll I'd like to do that, been down that road and that's disappointing

Thanks for the help guys

07-12-2016, 07:26 AM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 236
Rough winding on a K1000 is usually due to a damaged winding gear - the gear sits at the back of the camera, between the winding lever and the shutter dial. Unfortunately, it is the weak link in the Pentax drivetrain, and all that torque from the main wind gear can strip teeth.

Why does this happen? Well, one of of the quirks of the K1000 is that it's possible to close the camera door with the film cassette lips sticking upwards Most 35mm cameras will push the cassette down into the proper position without incident. But the K1000 can trap the cassette lips behind the pressure plate. This makes film winding very rough and difficult, but not impossible. A beginner won't realize what they've done wrong. A few rolls of film ground through the camera this way will often put a lot of stress on those wind gears.

Fortunately, that gear can be scavenged from another dead K1000, or a Spotmatic, as it was pretty much the same part. Installing it, however, isn't easy.
07-12-2016, 08:04 AM   #3
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Wow, solid lesson for me there. Thanks a ton. Now that I know the likely issue that makes things a little easier to trouble shoot or figure things out. Appreciate it!
07-18-2016, 04:53 AM   #4
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Both mine need a lot force relative to Nikon, Canon, Leica, does not worry me.

07-19-2016, 01:20 PM   #5
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Posts: 142
QuoteOriginally posted by Ontarian50 Quote

Why does this happen? Well, one of of the quirks of the K1000 is that it's possible to close the camera door with the film cassette lips sticking upwards Most 35mm cameras will push the cassette down into the proper position without incident. But the K1000 can trap the cassette lips behind the pressure plate. This makes film winding very rough and difficult, but not impossible. A beginner won't realize what they've done wrong. A few rolls of film ground through the camera this way will often put a lot of stress on those wind gears.

.
I had a K1000 that this happened frequently on. I learned 2 things: 1. If you feel that slipped-gear feeling, you can get in a dark room, open the back, and get the lip of the cassette lying flat. Close it back up, and you're good to go. You sacrifice a frame or two, but it seemed worth it to me. 2. I got in the habit (finally) of making sure the cassette was rotated correctly before closing the back. I still do that, no matter which camera I'm using.
07-20-2016, 03:46 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lenscap Quote
I had a K1000 that this happened frequently on. I learned 2 things: 1. If you feel that slipped-gear feeling, you can get in a dark room, open the back, and get the lip of the cassette lying flat. Close it back up, and you're good to go. You sacrifice a frame or two, but it seemed worth it to me. 2. I got in the habit (finally) of making sure the cassette was rotated correctly before closing the back. I still do that, no matter which camera I'm using.
After threading the film into slot in the take up spool, and taking up slack to index a sprocket tooth with film hole, pin the film unto tooth, and rewind film into cassette until it clinches. Then close back.
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