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09-01-2016, 06:57 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by nicholas411 Quote
wondering if you had any links to examples, as i've not heard of that .thanks

---------- Post added 09-01-16 at 04:11 AM ----------


thanks
Here's some examples from flickr...

FA 43mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 43mm portra | Flickr
FA 31mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 31mm portra | Flickr
FA 77mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 77mm portra | Flickr

These lenses were created for film and perform very, very well in that format They should offer a good improvement in sharpness, color and contrast compared with Pentax's regular 50mm lenses (which are very good already, comparable with offerings from other companies).

09-01-2016, 07:03 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Here's some examples from flickr...

FA 43mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 43mm portra | Flickr
FA 31mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 31mm portra | Flickr
FA 77mm Limited on Kodak Portra: Search: fa 77mm portra | Flickr

These lenses were created for film and perform very, very well in that format They should offer a good improvement in sharpness, color and contrast compared with Pentax's regular 50mm lenses (which are very good already, comparable with offerings from other companies).
thank you
09-01-2016, 07:10 AM   #18
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That is one of the nice things about the K1000, or any other K mount Pentax. If it fits you can shoot it.

You can also shoot any film you want, including slide film if that is your preference. The metering on my K1000 is very accurate and, though certainly basic, meters slide film extremely well. In fact I prefer the match needle form of metering because you can easily identify slight over or under exposures. The K1000 meter doesn't always react as quickly as other styles so it is a good idea to let it settle before accepting the reading. Of course a handheld meter is always a good idea if you have never tested your in-camera meter. It is also a good idea to consult Roger Hick's book "Correct Exposure" or Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure." Both will give you great instruction in using center weighted metering.
09-01-2016, 07:17 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
How about upgrading Pentax to... Pentax? Limiteds ate much easier to find than ZK lenses and I believe that they would compare well
Agree that the Pentax Limiteds give Zeiss a run for their money.

However, the OP wanted to upgrade his K1000 optics, and the Limiteds don't have aperture rings.

09-01-2016, 07:26 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ontarian50 Quote
the Limiteds don't have aperture rings.
The FA Limiteds do and I use them on my K Series film bodies.

Phil.
09-01-2016, 08:40 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ontarian50 Quote
Agree that the Pentax Limiteds give Zeiss a run for their money.

However, the OP wanted to upgrade his K1000 optics, and the Limiteds don't have aperture rings.
The ones that are of FA designation do, as Phil pointed out. FA 31, FA 43 and FA 77 all have aperture rings and work beautifully on a film Pentax camera.



There's other focal lengths that are not Limiteds but offer similar quality (meaning, superb) - FA 100 2.8 Macro, FA 50 2.8 Macro, FA 20 2.8 (by most accounts a Limited except by name), K 200 2.5, K 28 f2 or K28 3.5 will not disappoint. Then there's the * (star) lenses as well - FA* 24 f/2, A* 135 1.8, M* 300 f4.

Last edited by ChristianRock; 09-01-2016 at 08:45 AM.
09-01-2016, 09:29 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pioneer Quote
That is one of the nice things about the K1000, or any other K mount Pentax. If it fits you can shoot it.

You can also shoot any film you want, including slide film if that is your preference. The metering on my K1000 is very accurate and, though certainly basic, meters slide film extremely well. In fact I prefer the match needle form of metering because you can easily identify slight over or under exposures. The K1000 meter doesn't always react as quickly as other styles so it is a good idea to let it settle before accepting the reading. Of course a handheld meter is always a good idea if you have never tested your in-camera meter. It is also a good idea to consult Roger Hick's book "Correct Exposure" or Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure." Both will give you great instruction in using center weighted metering.
thank you...my meter in camera is broken so i use hand held...i would just like to read the light with no meter. that would be the best
09-01-2016, 09:46 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
There appear to be latitude issues (not uncommon with slower color neg. film), with blocked shadows and blown highlights in contrasty scenes (several appear to be underexposed). So I would suggest you try a faster color film (400 is an excellent all-rounder)
thats more to do with the scene not being metered correctly, or the shooter intentionally under/overexposing, the common rule for film is expose for the shadows, as the highlights are still recoverable when bracket scanning

i find iso 200 the hardest to work with, iso 400 to contasty and shadows look like crap and when your max shutter speed is 1/1000 limits wide open shooting unless you carry a nd filter

09-01-2016, 09:51 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratcheteer Quote
thats more to do with the scene not being metered correctly, or the shooter intentionally under/overexposing, the common rule for film is expose for the shadows, as the highlights are still recoverable when bracket scanning

i find iso 200 the hardest to work with, iso 400 to contasty and shadows look like crap and when your max shutter speed is 1/1000 limits wide open shooting unless you carry a nd filter
thank you...i just got some pro image 100 kodak to try.
09-01-2016, 12:23 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratcheteer Quote
iso 400 to crontasty and shadows look like crap and when your max shutter speed is 1/1000 limits wide open shooting unless you carry a nd filter
Fuji xtra 400, Supertak 50/1.4, no filter:


09-01-2016, 05:56 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
Fuji xtra 400, Supertak 50/1.4, no filter:
not sure what your trying to prove with this picture but that shot has been pulled back at least one stop the scanning process. fuji xtra 400 is one of those films that handles overexposure well (retains green, and doesn't add a to much of a magenta cast when when overexposed)
09-02-2016, 03:54 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratcheteer Quote
fuji xtra 400 is one of those films that handles overexposure well (retains green, and doesn't add a to much of a magenta cast when when overexposed)
Yes, use fast color film for latitude. Color casts are easily corrected in post
09-02-2016, 06:39 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
Yes, use fast color film for latitude. Color casts are easily corrected in post
won;t it be very grainy ?
09-02-2016, 10:28 AM   #29
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I have a selection of Zeiss glass. Not in ZK mount anymore. And of course I have a bunch of them for my 500C/M but also 18/3.5, 21/2.8 in small format F-mount and 35/2 plus 25/2.8 in M-mount. They all pretty much render color warmer than my other lenses of several different brands.

And I like having some Zeiss glass in my lens line up. And if you're going to want to get into that brand, I'd suggest getting another camera in a mount that Zeiss supports.

Grain in 400 film is relative. On my Pentax 6x7 it takes a good-size print to notice it. Here is the new Portra 400 example with Pentax glass




Last edited by tuco; 09-02-2016 at 11:03 AM.
09-02-2016, 02:33 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by nicholas411 Quote
won;t it be very grainy ?
That's one of the advantages of 35mm.
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