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09-23-2016, 02:08 PM - 1 Like   #16
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We seem to have drifted away from the point. Are we all in agreement that the pre-electronic era cameras are worth a CLA, and the electronic era ones aren't? I have had everything up to a Super A CLA'ed, including my ME-F, but I have bothered with any of the Z series or SF series done. I rarely use them anyway. I don't have any P-series bodies, and all the MZ series cameras I have come in contact with were faulty. I find the later whizz-bang film cameras too similar to using digital. Part of my enjoyment when shooting film is going back to using more basic equipment. Once a film camera starts having almost as many options as current digital cameras, I'd rather pick up my K-3...

09-23-2016, 04:12 PM   #17
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Silver Oxide cells for the old K-mounts
The silver oxide calls are getting a bit expensive.
I searched a bit and found some at MCM Electronics ( I am a customer) for $1.49 each in a 6 pack.
Shipping almost doubles that , but maybe less if combined with another item.
Fortunately, all the K-mount bodies here take these cells.

These should last a few years so I put a pin through each bubble pack and recorded the voltage and date.

I am off to Australia and Taiwan for a few weeks, and this time I am thinking to take this vintage kit:
Pentax ist ds
Pentax MX plus 2 rolls of Fuji iso 200
SMC Pentax 1:2.8 24mm
SMC Pentax 1:2 55mm
XR Rikenon 28~35mm metal hood ( It just fits the 24mm)
Pentax AF 160 Sa Flash
Edit Oh... and the Pentax Magnifier M !
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-01  Photo 

Last edited by wombat2go; 09-23-2016 at 04:19 PM.
09-23-2016, 05:14 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by womble Quote
Part of my enjoyment when shooting film is going back to using more basic equipment.
Once a film camera starts having almost as many options as current digital cameras, I'd rather pick up my K-3...
Agreed, but I'd rather pick up my simpler film camera.

Meter, set shutter speed and aperture, focus and compose, then release shutter.
No menus, no multi-mode dials and buttons, no LCDs.
What could be easier?

Chris
09-23-2016, 05:28 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ontarian50 Quote
I also understand that Ricoh never actually made their own SLRs. The early screw mounts were on the Mamiya platform. Later ones were all from Cosina - but they were a unique body layout, separate from the above models.
You understand wrong. They started their camera business in 1937, production stopped for the war and resumed in 1950 (Ricohflex III). Most Sears K-mount SLRs were Ricoh designs. (Sears did have one Chinon made K-mount SLR). Sears and K-mart (Focal 1000 TLX) sold the Singlex TLS under their own brand names too.

09-23-2016, 06:02 PM - 1 Like   #20
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Every Girl is Special in Her Own Way

So to add my response to the OP's question:

Any M42 Pentax except the Electro Spotmatic (they're really flaky)

In my order or preference >>

KX, MX, KM
LX
K2 and K2DMD, SuperProgram

(Nikon F2, F2a, FE2)

Some film people swear the PZ-1P is the best Pentax film camera ever. I like the MZ-S a lot, but it's nearly as automatic as K-1.

Some of mine are brassy users with excellent mechanicals that knock around in winter coat pockets. Others are shelf queens that I had CLA'ed for posterity (K, SV, ES) and I carefully take them out for an exercise every so often.

I have 4 KX'es - black and silver, each, split image and matte focusing screens.

Every girl is special in her own way (and worth her CLA).

Last edited by monochrome; 09-23-2016 at 06:15 PM.
09-23-2016, 06:56 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
Was that the last mechanical, manual only K-Mount?
That would be one of the full-manual Vivitar models, maybe the V4000 or V3800. Those were in production by Cosina until just a few years ago.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ontarian50 Quote
I also understand that Ricoh never actually made their own SLRs. The early screw mounts were on the Mamiya platform. Later ones were all from Cosina - but they were a unique body layout, separate from the above models.
You understand wrong. The Mamiya connection is definitely there on the original F-mount (!) Singlex, but I have had both it and the later Singlex TLS in hand and they are obviously different tooling. (The Nikon/Mamiya/Ricoh story of the original Singlex and Nikkormat F is complex.)* As for the Cosina link, it is undeniable that many later model Ricoh cameras were rebadged Cosina. It is also obvious that Ricoh models often appeared under other badging. The key to what was derived from what is the year of release and often the quality of implementation.


Steve

* The stories of many of the 60's-70's era Japanese makers is fairly complex with little hard evidence as to who was making what and for whom. The hints are often tantalizing...how about a Argus/Sekor lens on a Cosina-made camera?

Last edited by stevebrot; 09-23-2016 at 07:06 PM.
09-24-2016, 06:35 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
That would be one of the full-manual Vivitar models, maybe the V4000 or V3800.
Thanks,
They are still available on Amazon . A bit pricey but might be an option for someone wanting a basic K slr without the hassle of old aged seals, dusty vf, CLA etc.
Looks like the 3800 has more features and priced a little more .

Last edited by wombat2go; 09-24-2016 at 06:40 AM.
09-24-2016, 07:23 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
Agreed, but I'd rather pick up my simpler film camera.

Meter, set shutter speed and aperture, focus and compose, then release shutter.
No menus, no multi-mode dials and buttons, no LCDs.
What could be easier?

Chris
Courses for horses... I was out hiking the other day with a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6 folder. All I needed, and great fun. A week before that I was taking dozens of close-up shots of archaeological artefacts in a barn hundreds of miles away from home which takes almost two days to get to. Being able to download each photograph then and there, check the expsoure, the focus, the lighting, edit out the background, add the artefact numbers to the EXIF data and all the rest of it makes using digital a no-brainer, I used to do that sort of thing with BW film and colour slides. What a PITA...

If I am taking photos for fun, then I'll do whatever I please. If I am taking photos for work, I'll do whatever is the most efficient.

Cheers, Kris.

09-24-2016, 09:18 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by womble Quote
Courses for horses... I was out hiking the other day with a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 6x6 folder. All I needed, and great fun. A week before that I was taking dozens of close-up shots of archaeological artefacts in a barn hundreds of miles away from home which takes almost two days to get to. Being able to download each photograph then and there, check the expsoure, the focus, the lighting, edit out the background, add the artefact numbers to the EXIF data and all the rest of it makes using digital a no-brainer, I used to do that sort of thing with BW film and colour slides. What a PITA...

If I am taking photos for fun, then I'll do whatever I please. If I am taking photos for work, I'll do whatever is the most efficient.

Cheers, Kris.
This.
09-24-2016, 10:42 AM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctrout Quote
What classics are worth the CLA
Easy, the classic you have that needs it . . .
09-25-2016, 11:16 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by UMC Quote
BUT: All these cameras show more or less the same mirrorbox mechanism, which unfortunately contains a small plastic damper on the right side, which chemically disintegrates over the years. The residue of this chemical process makes the mirrorbox mechanism sluggish and leads to all kind of strange phenomena.

Not only because of this, but also because these cameras contain hundreds of mechanical parts, and yes, they are fare more mechanical than electronic cameras, I do think, that CLA makes sense and keeps the camera in a trustworthy status for being used as workhorse.

I agree with this. Probably every original Super Program, for example, has foam that need replacing. I have one that is making marks on the mirror form the deteriorating foam.

I personally think if you have a particular model camera and want to use it, you're better off getting one and keeping it maintained than getting rid of it later for another camera with unknown potential problems. Prices fluctuate widely, too, depending on where you buy them, so it might not necessarily be cheaper depending on what model you are talking about, especially if you have to get more than one copy to find a good one.
09-25-2016, 01:10 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by leekil Quote
Probably every original Super Program, for example, has foam that need replacing.
That is a fair statement for any camera that more than about 15-20 years since its last CLA or seal/bumper replacement.

QuoteOriginally posted by leekil Quote
I have one that is making marks on the mirror form the deteriorating foam.
Time to replace those foams. What leaves a mark will be flung into the mechanism and/or onto your focus screen. If a full CLA is not in order, you can save a lot of money and do the task yourself. I can heartily recommend the kits from Jon Goodman.


Steve
09-25-2016, 01:33 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Easy, the classic you have that needs it . . .
...this is the crux...

Most fully mechanical cameras will need the full treatment. Many fully electronic cameras will benefit from such and most will require new bumper/seals at the very least. My advice to anyone buying vintage gear is to not plan on rebuilding a broken camera/lens unless you are sure of the cause and have access to parts.*

FWIW, $65 for a CLA is not expensive. That is towards the low end of the cost scale for a CLA. If that seems high, then you either paid too much for the camera or you really don't want to be collecting vintage gear.


Steve

* I currently have an Exakta VX (Varex) body that is not fully working, is serviceable, but missing key parts. Its value is for parts only. That VX came in a bundle with a Carl Zeiss Jena lens in Exakta mount. That lens is missing key parts for the aperture stop-down mechanism. It is usable if adapted to MILC, but will not work properly as it was originally designed. I will not attempt a repair. It will be mounted to the VX and together they will become part of decor.
09-25-2016, 08:27 PM   #29
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Well, I guess I've been doing it right then by assuming an additional $65+ into the price of any body I buy, more when I get around to the LX. I have my ME SE at Eric's right now and will be sending an ME Super and a pair of MXs his way when the ME returns. I will be shopping for a K, an SV, and an LX in the near future. It looks like Eric might be sending me a Christmas card next year.
09-25-2016, 08:56 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Time to replace those foams. What leaves a mark will be flung into the mechanism and/or onto your focus screen. If a full CLA is not in order, you can save a lot of money and do the task yourself. I can heartily recommend the kits from Jon Goodman.
How do you obtain kits from Jon Goodman? I found his instructions here: Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions

but I couldn't find where he might sell the seal kits. He is apparently "interslice" on eBay, but that shows nothing listed at the moment.

This looks like it might be convenient -- due to the pre-cut strips -- but is it a quality foam for this application?

15 Adhesive Felt Strips for Camera Light Seals Universal Kit Width 2 10mm | eBay
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