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02-09-2017, 11:53 PM - 1 Like   #1
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P30T/P30N need battery to release shutter ?

I'm trying to gift one of these to a brave young chap trying film.
Getting winding on but no release. Flat battery ?
cheers for any clues
Pete

02-10-2017, 01:18 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by Transit Quote
Flat battery ?
Only one way to find out. That model needs a battery to fire the shutter
02-10-2017, 01:46 AM   #3
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Thanks pschlute good news
02-10-2017, 03:26 AM   #4
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Yes, the shutter in the P series is completely electronic so won't fire at any speed without a battery.

I like the P30 cameras a lot, they're very reliable and cheap too.

02-10-2017, 06:20 AM   #5
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If the camera is just winding and not firing, it probably has the common problem in P30s whereby the winder and shutter mechanism become 'disconnected' - that is, you can wind and wind and wind but the shutter will never be cocked. Without batteries, the camera should wind once and then refuse to fire or wind any further. If you have the perpetual winding problem, the most effective solution is probably to just buy another body, since they are so cheap.
02-10-2017, 06:47 AM   #6
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Also, if the camera has the traditional screw-in battery cap rather than the slide-and-flick-open type, that can become corroded and impede electrical contact. So if a new battery doesn't immediately get things running, clean that terminal good (a little scrape with a fine screwdriver can do wonders here).

If there are shutter-speed lights in the viewfinder but no release, then of course you have deeper problems.
02-18-2017, 09:50 AM   #7
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My P30T would only fire with decent quality batteries. If I fitted cheapies it would be reluctant to fire. Might just be mine though.

02-18-2017, 11:13 PM   #8
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So I'm the brave soul who got the camera and there is a slight winding problem.
When I first used it, it took ten or more winds to cock the shutter for it to release. Then it dropped to every second wind to release the shutter. Now it works every wind except after long periods of rest. Like over night or all day at work.

1. Testing out winding the shutter before powering it off and resting it. Hoping that it will fire the first shot and wind fine after that.
2.Second, option it to get into the habit of half a wind followed by a full wind. As to cock the shutter and not advance the film one extra shot. Having to do two full winds means I'll lose one shot every time.
3. Third option is opening up the bottom and looking for the goo or old rubber seal that could be causing the problem and clean it?

Have not tried with film yet.
02-19-2017, 01:36 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by following.eric Quote
1. Testing out winding the shutter before powering it off and resting it. Hoping that it will fire the first shot and wind fine after that.
I realise you are testing it out at the moment, but long term it is not advisable to leave the camera for extended periods with the shutter cocked.
02-19-2017, 02:32 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
I realise you are testing it out at the moment, but long term it is not advisable to leave the camera for extended periods with the shutter cocked.
ya I figured it would keep the whole system under tension. I supposed just getting in the habit of a half wind followed by a full wind would be better. If I do that it seems to work and doesnt advance the film twice, so doesnt waste a shot.
03-08-2017, 08:39 PM   #11
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Interesting and perplexing behaviour. I know the ME Super had issues with the winder, and I had my P30T skip its gears at one point so that the winder was flapping uselessly in the breeze (I thought at first I had sheared the cogs off, but thankfully no). You might want to think about getting it serviced if that sort of thing keeps up.
03-09-2017, 02:31 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by following.eric Quote
ya I figured it would keep the whole system under tension. I supposed just getting in the habit of a half wind followed by a full wind would be better. If I do that it seems to work and doesnt advance the film twice, so doesnt waste a shot.
Don't know if it applies to just electronic shutters, or specific cameras and what not, but least in the old mechanical shutters (say rangefinders, leaf shutters on view cameras, etc for example), having the shutter cocked or uncocked makes no difference for storage, as the 'wear' is only done on actual firing of the shutter.

So I guess it depends but far as I know with older mechanical it didn't matter, even though the old curmudgeons at the camera shop I used to work at would swear by the 1 second cocked tip for long term storage.

I was actually considering a P30N until I saw it requires DX coding to set the film speed (without the DX code on the canister, it's always ISO 100).
03-09-2017, 02:53 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote

I was actually considering a P30N until I saw it requires DX coding to set the film speed (without the DX code on the canister, it's always ISO 100).
I saw online you can fool the Dx code to push or pull film. Just a matter of altering the code
03-09-2017, 02:56 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by following.eric Quote
I saw online you can fool the Dx code to push or pull film. Just a matter of altering the code
And if you don't have a code to begin with? :P

I bulk roll a number of the kind of films I would push/pull/etc. Those canisters are completely blank. Also some of the brands such as say from Czech Republic manufacture, has no DX coding on them.
03-09-2017, 05:44 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
And if you don't have a code to begin with? :P

I bulk roll a number of the kind of films I would push/pull/etc. Those canisters are completely blank. Also some of the brands such as say from Czech Republic manufacture, has no DX coding on them.

here you go...but the easiest solution would be buying a camera where you can just change the iso haha
Would also work for canisters without any Dx code to begin with
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