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03-14-2017, 11:17 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by awscreo Quote
Loads to soak in, thanks! I'll try to get around at least trying it out when I have time to mess around with this. I really want to try developing negatives myself, just out of curiosity and better understanding of the process.
This forum can become overwhelming in responses very quickly - which is largely a good thing but keep that in mind.

You needn't dive into home developing right away (or at all) unless you're incredibly curious. There are a good number of mail-order outfits (such as Dwayne's already mentioned) that do very good film processing and scanning. To your original question, yes, that Pentax Super Program is actually a great first foray into film SLRs. If you already understand exposure, it should be a fairly easy transition. Here's a short overview on the Super Program:

In terms of film, just begin with something simple. My suggestion is Fujifilm Superia - 400 or 800 speed are easy to find, even on Amazon and they look great when shot at box speed or slower. (They look rather muddy when underexposed however.) For B&W try Ilford HP5 Plus 400 for that traditional look, or Ilford Delta 400 for a bit more contrast. I suggest these again, because they're inexpensive and forgiving.

You needn't worry about developing times and chemicals and darkrooms and on and on for the time being. Grab a few rolls of film and shoot them. Send them off to Dwayne's then get some more film and try shooting in other ways based on what you get back. Just go play - all you need is some film.


Last edited by Eyewanders; 03-14-2017 at 11:37 AM.
03-14-2017, 01:40 PM   #17
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Thanks again everyone for taking time and really helping with suggestions and info. Greatly appreciated
03-14-2017, 09:23 PM - 2 Likes   #18
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Film today - particularly color negatives (aka C41), have so much latitude specially on the overexposure side. So if you are unsure of the meter, err on the side of overexposing. This is what it looks like compared to some common digis shot using RAW to maximize their recovery.


>>>Larger version


By comparison Kodak Portra 400 is nearly impossible to overexpose while these digitals are unrecoverable just overexposed by 3 stops.

This is the full under and overexposure range I tested on that roll of Kodak Portra 400.


>>>Larger version


In practical application, you can shoot an extremely contrasty scene - from deep black to overexposed bright, and still recover those areas in post. This again using Portra 400.


>>>Larger version


And of course you can do all the other post work on the scanned files such as stitching that I did on 4 frames of Kodak Portra 800.


>>>Larger version
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