B&W film...

pschlute · 05-10-2017, 04:01 PM - **3 Likes**

Originally posted by g026r

Last time I used them (2-3 years ago?), Earl Grey was Fomapan 100

Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea.

g026r · 05-10-2017, 05:25 PM

Originally posted by pschlute

Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea.

Don't think that's quite what's meant by caffenol.

gutter rock · 05-10-2017, 06:37 PM

I always preferred Tri-x for the grain structure and Tmax for its smoothness. Looking forward to trying Double X Kodak movie film soon.

conniption · 05-10-2017, 08:36 PM

Originally posted by pschlute

Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea.

I was gonna say...

Jonathan Mac · 05-11-2017, 02:38 AM

For lower ISOs my favourites are Ilford FP4+ and Fuji Acros. The latter I use very rarely because it's incredibly expensive now. FP4+ is just wonderful.

For higher ISOs Tri-X is beautiful stuff but can be hellish to load into a developing reel and can be equally hellish to scan because it curls so much. I've basically given up on it.

HP5+ has produced very flat, dull results for me so far but that could maybe be rectified by changes to developing.

For the time being I regard T-Max 400 as the best all-round, easily available 400 ISO B&W film , though I'll admit I haven't tried Delta 400 yet. There are lots of other 400 ISO B&W films out there from smaller producers and it's nice to go through and test them.

If you use Lady Gray beware - it's recently changed from being T-Max 400 to Fomapan 400 so you may have to adjust exposure and development depending on which version you get. The T-Max is made in the USA and is really ISO 400 and Fomapan is made in the Czech republic and is really closer to ISO 250.

pathdoc · 05-11-2017, 04:03 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

If you use Lady Gray beware - it's recently changed from being T-Max 400 to Fomapan 400 so you may have to adjust exposure and development depending on which version you get. The T-Max is made in the USA and is really ISO 400 and Fomapan is made in the Czech republic and is really closer to ISO 250.

Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source?

Xmas · 05-11-2017, 05:42 AM

Originally posted by pschlute

Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea.

The lady grey here either say made in USA or Czech Republic or EU, Kodak or Foma, you can tell from cassette code or it being missing....

---------- Post added 05-11-17 at 01:45 PM ----------

Originally posted by pathdoc

Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source?

The package in U.K. shops has made in USA or EU and Dx code is different or absent!

pathdoc · 05-11-2017, 05:56 AM

Originally posted by Xmas

Dx code is different or absent!

Okay, in that case it's definitely not one for my P3 or P30T!!!

tuco · 05-11-2017, 06:40 AM

My go-to film is 400TMX in 120 roll. I can shoot it at EI100 for high contrast scenes or EI400 for lower light or more DOF. Of course I can't mix the the two exposure indexes on the same roll. And 100 Acros is another film I use frequently. It soups well in about any developer and pretty much has no reciprocity failure characteristics. And I'm experimenting with Rollei Retro 80S. But its curl is so bad it makes scanning difficult.

tuco · 05-11-2017, 06:45 AM

Originally posted by ChrisPlatt

I have always liked the look of Tri-X. It's the pink negatives I can do without...

Chris

Try a double fixer stage and wash it longer. That is, fix it normally and then fix one minute longer with a second fresher fixer. Usually you have to to that to 100TMX but I haven't had to do that ever with 400TX in my development process. It always comes out clean with regular fixing and a long wash.

pathdoc · 05-11-2017, 07:57 AM

Originally posted by tuco

It always comes out clean with regular fixing and a long wash.

I did a roll of Tmax 400 in Ilford chemistry last night. I always do a prewash/warmup in water and dump that till it runs clean. The first time I used Ilford stuff (Ilfosol 3/rapid fix), the fix came out clean but i was pulling it to 200 (for the hell of it; don't ask me why). Last night the fixer I dumped was pink and I shot it at box speed. I did washes until it ran clean and the negatives look fine.

These are merely observations. I cannot explain why the altered ISO should alter the appearance of the fixative...

I should have kept it, as I have a roll of Fomapan 200 with which I could see whether the fixation powers were at all altered (following advice given here, I currently always cut the leader off and use it to determine clearing/fixing time).

Jonathan Mac · 05-11-2017, 08:11 AM

Originally posted by pathdoc

Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source?

Originally posted by Xmas

The lady grey here either say made in USA or Czech Republic or EU, Kodak or Foma, you can tell from cassette code or it being missing....

---------- Post added 05-11-17 at 01:45 PM ----------

The package in U.K. shops has made in USA or EU and Dx code is different or absent!

What he said. I noticed just after I bought my last pack. I also noticed that the price had gone up €1 a roll, for what is probably inferior stuff. I've never used Fomapan 400 but it doesn't have a good reputation and I know it's not as fast as it claims to be. I bought 400 speed film because I wanted 400, not 250.

I don't have any of them to hand to check if they have DX coding on them or not.

tuco · 05-11-2017, 08:20 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

... I bought 400 speed film because I wanted 400, not 250.

I have no experience with Ilfosol 3. But the brand and type of film developer will affect your film's speed. Some developers will develop to box speed for the manufacture's published development times. I'd guess that of all the developers you can get your hands on, more will not develop to box speed than that do.

**gofour3** · 05-11-2017, 09:03 AM

Originally posted by conniption

Much like Vancouver most of the year

400 ISO is summer film in Vancouver!

I'd go with any Kodak or Ilford 400 ISO film for your needs.

Phil.

pathdoc · 05-11-2017, 11:55 AM

Originally posted by tuco

But the brand and type of film developer will affect your film's speed.

I go with the Massive Development Chart for a first try on everything and work from there. I've just adopted a new agitation routine (I've gone from the stirring rod to actual inversions), which probably also affects things, and sometime in the next couple of nights I am going to scan them and find out exactly where things lie. The fact that I haven't had absolutely terrible results seems to indicate that the times it provides are about right.

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05-10-2017, 04:01 PM - 3 Likes	#16
pschlute Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Surrey, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,202	Originally posted by g026r Last time I used them (2-3 years ago?), Earl Grey was Fomapan 100 Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea.

05-10-2017, 05:25 PM	#17
g026r Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,074	Originally posted by pschlute Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea. Don't think that's quite what's meant by caffenol.

05-10-2017, 06:37 PM	#18
gutter rock Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 42	I always preferred Tri-x for the grain structure and Tmax for its smoothness. Looking forward to trying Double X Kodak movie film soon.

05-10-2017, 08:36 PM	#19
conniption Forum Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 93 Original Poster	Originally posted by pschlute Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea. I was gonna say...

05-11-2017, 02:38 AM	#20
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	For lower ISOs my favourites are Ilford FP4+ and Fuji Acros. The latter I use very rarely because it's incredibly expensive now. FP4+ is just wonderful. For higher ISOs Tri-X is beautiful stuff but can be hellish to load into a developing reel and can be equally hellish to scan because it curls so much. I've basically given up on it. HP5+ has produced very flat, dull results for me so far but that could maybe be rectified by changes to developing. For the time being I regard T-Max 400 as the best all-round, easily available 400 ISO B&W film , though I'll admit I haven't tried Delta 400 yet. There are lots of other 400 ISO B&W films out there from smaller producers and it's nice to go through and test them. If you use Lady Gray beware - it's recently changed from being T-Max 400 to Fomapan 400 so you may have to adjust exposure and development depending on which version you get. The T-Max is made in the USA and is really ISO 400 and Fomapan is made in the Czech republic and is really closer to ISO 250.

05-11-2017, 04:03 AM	#21
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac If you use Lady Gray beware - it's recently changed from being T-Max 400 to Fomapan 400 so you may have to adjust exposure and development depending on which version you get. The T-Max is made in the USA and is really ISO 400 and Fomapan is made in the Czech republic and is really closer to ISO 250. Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source?

05-11-2017, 05:42 AM	#22
Xmas Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 617	Originally posted by pschlute Last time I used Earl Grey, I poured boiling water over it. No idea if it would work as a developer, but it made a lovely cup of tea. The lady grey here either say made in USA or Czech Republic or EU, Kodak or Foma, you can tell from cassette code or it being missing.... ---------- Post added 05-11-17 at 01:45 PM ---------- Originally posted by pathdoc Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source? The package in U.K. shops has made in USA or EU and Dx code is different or absent!

05-11-2017, 05:56 AM	#23
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	Originally posted by Xmas Dx code is different or absent! Okay, in that case it's definitely not one for my P3 or P30T!!!

05-11-2017, 06:40 AM	#24
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	My go-to film is 400TMX in 120 roll. I can shoot it at EI100 for high contrast scenes or EI400 for lower light or more DOF. Of course I can't mix the the two exposure indexes on the same roll. And 100 Acros is another film I use frequently. It soups well in about any developer and pretty much has no reciprocity failure characteristics. And I'm experimenting with Rollei Retro 80S. But its curl is so bad it makes scanning difficult.

05-11-2017, 06:45 AM	#25
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	Originally posted by ChrisPlatt I have always liked the look of Tri-X. It's the pink negatives I can do without... Chris Try a double fixer stage and wash it longer. That is, fix it normally and then fix one minute longer with a second fresher fixer. Usually you have to to that to 100TMX but I haven't had to do that ever with 400TX in my development process. It always comes out clean with regular fixing and a long wash.

05-11-2017, 07:57 AM	#26
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	Originally posted by tuco It always comes out clean with regular fixing and a long wash. I did a roll of Tmax 400 in Ilford chemistry last night. I always do a prewash/warmup in water and dump that till it runs clean. The first time I used Ilford stuff (Ilfosol 3/rapid fix), the fix came out clean but i was pulling it to 200 (for the hell of it; don't ask me why). Last night the fixer I dumped was pink and I shot it at box speed. I did washes until it ran clean and the negatives look fine. These are merely observations. I cannot explain why the altered ISO should alter the appearance of the fixative... I should have kept it, as I have a roll of Fomapan 200 with which I could see whether the fixation powers were at all altered (following advice given here, I currently always cut the leader off and use it to determine clearing/fixing time).

05-11-2017, 08:11 AM	#27
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	Originally posted by pathdoc Thanks for the heads up on that one. Source? Originally posted by Xmas The lady grey here either say made in USA or Czech Republic or EU, Kodak or Foma, you can tell from cassette code or it being missing.... ---------- Post added 05-11-17 at 01:45 PM ---------- The package in U.K. shops has made in USA or EU and Dx code is different or absent! What he said. I noticed just after I bought my last pack. I also noticed that the price had gone up €1 a roll, for what is probably inferior stuff. I've never used Fomapan 400 but it doesn't have a good reputation and I know it's not as fast as it claims to be. I bought 400 speed film because I wanted 400, not 250. I don't have any of them to hand to check if they have DX coding on them or not.

05-11-2017, 08:20 AM	#28
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac ... I bought 400 speed film because I wanted 400, not 250. I have no experience with Ilfosol 3. But the brand and type of film developer will affect your film's speed. Some developers will develop to box speed for the manufacture's published development times. I'd guess that of all the developers you can get your hands on, more will not develop to box speed than that do.

05-11-2017, 09:03 AM	#29
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by conniption Much like Vancouver most of the year 400 ISO is summer film in Vancouver! I'd go with any Kodak or Ilford 400 ISO film for your needs. Phil.

05-11-2017, 11:55 AM	#30
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	Originally posted by tuco But the brand and type of film developer will affect your film's speed. I go with the Massive Development Chart for a first try on everything and work from there. I've just adopted a new agitation routine (I've gone from the stirring rod to actual inversions), which probably also affects things, and sometime in the next couple of nights I am going to scan them and find out exactly where things lie. The fact that I haven't had absolutely terrible results seems to indicate that the times it provides are about right.