K1000 curtain tension adjustment gears sticking out

Tuomu · 07-04-2017, 09:05 AM

Hi,

I'm new here, but didn't find a similar problem yet. Looking forward to being a part anyways.

I just got my dad's K1000 that he used to work with as a journalist back in the 80's or 90's. I suppose that's the age, if that matters (although it's with metal plates so probably older). There's a problem with the light meter, which is why it hasn't been used for a while. I figured since it's pretty much garbage sitting in the shelf, and I've been fixing phones and watches for some years now, I'd give it a go.

What I managed to do was figure out several possible causes that were not the case this time. But while at it, I removed the screws from the closing-curtain tension adjustments, and it popped up some 1-2mm. Just enough for the cover below not to engage again. I don't know how to get it back down. And yes, I do feel stupid, but I didn't know it wouldn't slide back in.

I've been studying this http://www.pentax-manuals.com/markroberts/k1000_man.pdf from page 85 onwards, but can't really put my finger on it. The shutter timings seem to be ok even at 1/1000 and 1/500, since the screws were long enough to dock it in its' place even though it's floating, but the cover won't go... and I assume something is dislocated somewhere.

Can you help me with this? Is there for instance a way to guide them back in from the top (after this I'm a bit hesitant to open it up too)

Thank you in advance.

PS. I've got a phone in the mail, and I'll send some pictures once it arrives, if needed.

**pentaxus** · 07-04-2017, 11:55 AM

My guess is that the shaft of the curtain barrel slipped out of the bushing on the top. The pin at the top is about 1mm in diameter and needs to go back into the bushing. I've never done anything like this without already having the camera completely apart. Try lifting the mirror up (maybe taping it that way) and see if you can wiggle the barrel back into place. Be careful to not damage the shutter curtain. Good luck.

Xmas · 07-04-2017, 12:11 PM

Most of time I use sunny side /16 with a K1000 or S1a.
The screws on the baseplate may be the tension adjuster screws and best left alone unless you have test gear to measure effective shutter speed across the 36mm of frame.
Never touch them myself simpler to remove and replace wax with thin oil.

You may need to strip out the whole front of the camera mount mirror box etc.

Tuomu · 07-04-2017, 01:08 PM

Thanks for the input guys. If I can get to it from the front, that'd make things a lot easier. I know now not to touch these, but I guess they have to be put to place.

I figured there'd be slots, and maybe they'd show from above, but front seems easier since then I can move them sideways too.

I'll get back to you once I manage to build up enough courage to stick my fingers in there. If anyone has any more hints or tips that could help, they're most welcome.

My girlfriend's a semi-pro photographer but only uses a digital, and I'm puzzled, that she doesn't know anything about light measuring, since the camera does it all for her, so I'm excited to start reading levels on my phone and maybe glueing a guide table to the back of my camera to see what works for what

---------- Post added 07-04-17 at 01:29 PM ----------

[EDIT: I did take a look under the mirror and of course it's a sealed box, so there's nothing to be done in there, if I read you correctly]

Xmas · 07-05-2017, 02:29 AM

Sunny 16 rule - Wikipedia
You need to read it careful.
Dcamera people have screen at back!

With the mirror up and back off you might be able to reseat the pin otherwise it is the camera shop repair person!

Tuomu · 07-05-2017, 05:02 AM

As you can see, the dock's a bit loose. In the other pic you can see, that there's really nothing behind the mirror that I can do. Also it seems the other curtain is now sticking a bit, which obviously means I did more damage than I thought. So I figured I'd go to a store and by a spanner wrench and some tools to get it all open and set up again.

Tuomu · 07-07-2017, 09:31 AM

[EDIT] Fiddling around, I realised what you meant by stripping down the front.

I've got the top off now, the bottom too. I soldered off the electronics (everything looks perfect, no burnt soldering or corrosion, so who knows what the meter problem is)

Anyway, it all in pieces, I put them in a small fishing lure box to keep them in order. But I'm a bit iffy on starting to tear off the leatherette, since it looks as if it's going under the front piece. I can't find photos or videos of people doing that, and I wouldn't like to destroy the pretty looks just yet. It seems like there's no obvious place to start tearing off the covering... Any experience on this? I see that there are a lot of cool replacements for sale, so I'm not worrying too much, but the piece seems pretty solid at the moment. The glue might be pretty hard too.

Sorry for posting too many times in a row

ctrout · 07-08-2017, 02:10 PM

Tear it off! If you mess it up, you can always upgrade it to something like this:

or this:

or even this! (Eew!)

Tuomu · 07-09-2017, 02:46 AM

Those look cool. I was actually already looking for tools for leather crafting and carving, do do something unique. Sky's the limit. Here's what the problem looked like. I had pulled the pin down too much, and the white wheel fell off. Either way, the strings that pull the curtain were loose and almost tied up, so it had to be opened.

At the moment the front piece is back on with wires soldered. I managed to cock and release again, so that works. The shutter curtain seem to work at least on ad hoc settings, but I'll have to check them out with all speeds once assembled... As of now, I have no idea how to do that, but shouldn't be too hard, I think.

rosshj · 06-18-2018, 08:14 PM

I'm looking to adjust my curtain which looks a little loose and slightly dislodged. I noticed in this thread you removed the front cover. I've tried removing the leatherette and screws on the front of the camera, but it doesn't seem to come off—did you have to remove the top plate as well?

Ranchu · 06-18-2018, 09:05 PM

Don't follow in this guy's tracks, this was a disaster. Pay somone who knows what they're doing to fix it for you.

Tuomu · 06-20-2018, 05:06 AM

A disaster?

Hardly, the thing's working fine! (though without the meter, which needs to be replaced).

Yes, I had to strip off the top, which includes takin apart a lot of gears, and there are some tough soldering there, short wires that leave little room for precise work. I thought best replacing them too.

-Tuomas--

p.s. but I do agree, a pro is always a pro. I didn't have much to lose when I started fondling with the thing, so I just went in to learn stuff.

rosshj · 06-20-2018, 09:34 AM

Cool. Thanks Tuomu.

It's not really worth the price to service a K1000, so I figured I would use it as a fun learning experience. If I actually get it working, I will probably donate it to a student.

Cheers,

Ross

ctrout · 06-20-2018, 02:41 PM

I paid Eric for a full service on my K1000. I think that it was VERY much worth the expense.

Ranchu · 06-20-2018, 04:06 PM

Nice. Costs 80 bucks to service a K1000, and you have an slr Leica.

Quote:

It's not really worth the price to service a K1000, so I figured I would use it as a fun learning experience. If I actually get it working, I will probably donate it to a student.

You're just going to destroy it, and live with the guilt of that forever. A fun learning experience, that is, of course.

07-04-2017, 09:05 AM	#1
Tuomu New Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Posts: 8	K1000 curtain tension adjustment gears sticking out Hi, I'm new here, but didn't find a similar problem yet. Looking forward to being a part anyways. I just got my dad's K1000 that he used to work with as a journalist back in the 80's or 90's. I suppose that's the age, if that matters (although it's with metal plates so probably older). There's a problem with the light meter, which is why it hasn't been used for a while. I figured since it's pretty much garbage sitting in the shelf, and I've been fixing phones and watches for some years now, I'd give it a go. What I managed to do was figure out several possible causes that were not the case this time. But while at it, I removed the screws from the closing-curtain tension adjustments, and it popped up some 1-2mm. Just enough for the cover below not to engage again. I don't know how to get it back down. And yes, I do feel stupid, but I didn't know it wouldn't slide back in. I've been studying this http://www.pentax-manuals.com/markroberts/k1000_man.pdf from page 85 onwards, but can't really put my finger on it. The shutter timings seem to be ok even at 1/1000 and 1/500, since the screws were long enough to dock it in its' place even though it's floating, but the cover won't go... and I assume something is dislocated somewhere. Can you help me with this? Is there for instance a way to guide them back in from the top (after this I'm a bit hesitant to open it up too) Thank you in advance. PS. I've got a phone in the mail, and I'll send some pictures once it arrives, if needed.

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07-04-2017, 11:55 AM	#2
pentaxus Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Central Coast, CA Posts: 1,313	My guess is that the shaft of the curtain barrel slipped out of the bushing on the top. The pin at the top is about 1mm in diameter and needs to go back into the bushing. I've never done anything like this without already having the camera completely apart. Try lifting the mirror up (maybe taping it that way) and see if you can wiggle the barrel back into place. Be careful to not damage the shutter curtain. Good luck.

07-04-2017, 12:11 PM	#3
Xmas Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 617	Most of time I use sunny side /16 with a K1000 or S1a. The screws on the baseplate may be the tension adjuster screws and best left alone unless you have test gear to measure effective shutter speed across the 36mm of frame. Never touch them myself simpler to remove and replace wax with thin oil. You may need to strip out the whole front of the camera mount mirror box etc.

07-04-2017, 01:08 PM	#4
Tuomu New Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Posts: 8 Original Poster	Thanks for the input guys. If I can get to it from the front, that'd make things a lot easier. I know now not to touch these, but I guess they have to be put to place. I figured there'd be slots, and maybe they'd show from above, but front seems easier since then I can move them sideways too. I'll get back to you once I manage to build up enough courage to stick my fingers in there. If anyone has any more hints or tips that could help, they're most welcome. My girlfriend's a semi-pro photographer but only uses a digital, and I'm puzzled, that she doesn't know anything about light measuring, since the camera does it all for her, so I'm excited to start reading levels on my phone and maybe glueing a guide table to the back of my camera to see what works for what ---------- Post added 07-04-17 at 01:29 PM ---------- [EDIT: I did take a look under the mirror and of course it's a sealed box, so there's nothing to be done in there, if I read you correctly]

07-05-2017, 02:29 AM	#5
Xmas Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 617	Sunny 16 rule - Wikipedia You need to read it careful. Dcamera people have screen at back! With the mirror up and back off you might be able to reseat the pin otherwise it is the camera shop repair person!

07-07-2017, 09:31 AM	#7
Tuomu New Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Posts: 8 Original Poster	[EDIT] Fiddling around, I realised what you meant by stripping down the front. I've got the top off now, the bottom too. I soldered off the electronics (everything looks perfect, no burnt soldering or corrosion, so who knows what the meter problem is) Anyway, it all in pieces, I put them in a small fishing lure box to keep them in order. But I'm a bit iffy on starting to tear off the leatherette, since it looks as if it's going under the front piece. I can't find photos or videos of people doing that, and I wouldn't like to destroy the pretty looks just yet. It seems like there's no obvious place to start tearing off the covering... Any experience on this? I see that there are a lot of cool replacements for sale, so I'm not worrying too much, but the piece seems pretty solid at the moment. The glue might be pretty hard too. Sorry for posting too many times in a row

07-08-2017, 02:10 PM	#8
ctrout Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 444	Tear it off! If you mess it up, you can always upgrade it to something like this: or this: or even this! (Eew!)

06-18-2018, 08:14 PM	#10
rosshj New Member Join Date: Jun 2018 Posts: 2	I'm looking to adjust my curtain which looks a little loose and slightly dislodged. I noticed in this thread you removed the front cover. I've tried removing the leatherette and screws on the front of the camera, but it doesn't seem to come off—did you have to remove the top plate as well?

06-18-2018, 09:05 PM	#11
Ranchu Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 151	Don't follow in this guy's tracks, this was a disaster. Pay somone who knows what they're doing to fix it for you.

06-20-2018, 05:06 AM	#12
Tuomu New Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Posts: 8 Original Poster	A disaster? Hardly, the thing's working fine! (though without the meter, which needs to be replaced). Yes, I had to strip off the top, which includes takin apart a lot of gears, and there are some tough soldering there, short wires that leave little room for precise work. I thought best replacing them too. -Tuomas-- p.s. but I do agree, a pro is always a pro. I didn't have much to lose when I started fondling with the thing, so I just went in to learn stuff.

06-20-2018, 09:34 AM	#13
rosshj New Member Join Date: Jun 2018 Posts: 2	Cool. Thanks Tuomu. It's not really worth the price to service a K1000, so I figured I would use it as a fun learning experience. If I actually get it working, I will probably donate it to a student. Cheers, Ross

06-20-2018, 02:41 PM	#14
ctrout Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 444	I paid Eric for a full service on my K1000. I think that it was VERY much worth the expense.

06-20-2018, 04:06 PM	#15
Ranchu Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 151	Nice. Costs 80 bucks to service a K1000, and you have an slr Leica. Quote: It's not really worth the price to service a K1000, so I figured I would use it as a fun learning experience. If I actually get it working, I will probably donate it to a student. You're just going to destroy it, and live with the guilt of that forever. A fun learning experience, that is, of course.