[conniption]

Now you're in trouble. I started with a single KX and now I have 8 film bodies.
If you're like me you'll start to treasure it more than your digital.
Good advice to start with a CLA, then experiment with different types of film.
Real film grain is awesome! I'd forgotten just how good the real thing looks after 10 years using digital.
It will also open up your creativity as a bonus.

[Spodeworld]

So, I assume that this doesn't work if you mount an adapter and an M42 lens. I assume you would have to compose, focus and manually stop down, then shoot.

The aperture reporting arm (look for it on the right of the mount as you look in at the mirror, opposite side to the shutter release etc) links to its compatriot on the lens and reports (by means of a potentiometer) the number of stops away from fully open. The meter itself reads the fully open result; the reporting arm adds the correcting factor. The explicit aperture value is not signalled, nor does it need to be.

[ripper2860]

So, I assume that this doesn't work if you mount an adapter and an M42 lens. I assume you would have to compose, focus and manually stop down, then shoot.

I believe the newer M42's (ex: SMC Takumars and possibly the Super-Multi-Coated Takumars) do have the aperture setting lever coupling and should work. I compared my SMC Takumar 50/1.4 to a Pentax-A 50/1.7 and the aperture setting lever is identically located. The Super-Takumars and Takumars are missing the aperture setting lever and would require the manual stop down to meter properly.

[pathdoc]

I believe the newer M42's (ex: SMC Takumars and possibly the Super-Multi-Coated Takumars) do have the aperture setting lever coupling and should work. I compared my SMC Takumar 50/1.4 to a Pentax-A 50/1.7 and the aperture setting lever is identically located. The Super-Takumars and Takumars are missing the aperture setting lever and would require the manual stop down to meter properly.

No. The body-side aperture simulator connector on the Spotmatic F and ES series is at 12 o'clock looking into the mount; the connector on the K mount is at 1-2 o'clock (looking into the mount from the front) and its arc of travel appears to be different. The open-aperture Takumars have to be indexed to the connector by a lug on the rear face of the mount, so that they index the same every time; I'm pretty sure they would not align properly to a K-mount simulator. All Takumars work the same on a K-mount body.

[ripper2860]

Thanks. I stand corrected.

[Spodeworld]

So, for M42s, looks like, compose, focus, stop down, meter and shoot....

[Xmas]

A S1a and sunnyside /16

Sunny 16 rule - Wikipedia

More convient?

[builttospill]

Start looking for your second film body now: the MX.

I'm impressed by the list of cameras here. I've sold quite a few bodies I didn't use as often over the last few years, such as the S3, K2, LX, and PZ-1p. I'm probably missing a few, but here goes.

Pentax:
SV
KM
KX
K1000
K1000 SE
K2 DMD
K2 DMD
MX silver
MX black
ME Super
Super Program
MZ-3
MZ-50
ZX-60
*ist

Other:
Kodak Vigilant six-20
Kodak Retina
Yashica FR
Canon Elan
Nikon N65
Eastman view
Mamiya 645

[stevebrot]

I don't sell anything...

1 - Minolta SRT 101
1 - Minolta SRT 102 (rough, but operational...KX on steroids)
1 - Exakta VX 1000
1 - Exakta VX (rough, but operational)

3 - Ricoh XR7 (two operational and one for parts)...have matched winder and dedicated flash
1 - Ricoh XR-2s...have matched winder and dedicated flash
1 - Pentax KX
1 - Pentax Super Program...have matched winder and dedicated AF 280 T flash

1 - Pentax SV
1 - Pentax Spotmatic
1 - Pentax Spotmatic II
1 - Ricoh Singlex TLS
1 - Mamiya 1000 DTL

1 - Yashica Lynx 1000 (needs service to the aperture linkage)
3 - Yashica Lynx 5000 (one operational, though with not-so-good meter)
1 - Olympus XA with A16 flash and presentation box
1 - FED-2
1 - Zorki-4K
1 - Kiev 4A
1 - Canon P
1 - Voigtländer Bessa R3M

1 - Yashica 44 (baby 127 TLR)
1 - Mamiya Six (folder)

1 - Chamonix 045N-2 (4x5 field camera with an assortment of lenses and stuff to go with)

All of the above are v-good to excellent condition and in full working condition unless otherwise noted. None of the above are seeing fresh air as often as they should


Steve

[stevebrot]

So, for M42s, looks like, compose, focus, stop down, meter and shoot....

Pretty much, that is how it works for M42 adapted on your KX, though you have to open the aperture back up to prepare for the next shot. In practice, it works closer to this:

1. A/M switch in A position
2. Frame and focus
3. Switch to M position
4. Meter exposure
5. Take photo
6. Switch to A position
7. Repeat as desired, skipping step #4, until either light or subject changes

The key to shooting quick and easy with a manual exposure camera is to only meter once per setup and to have an auto-aperture lens. Case in point would be the photo below, taken with a Pentax SV. I had taken incident light readings a few minutes before and set the aperture and shutter speed from them. As I was taking a few photos of the back of Timberline Lodge at Mt. Hood, Oregon I noticed out of the corner of my eye that a couple of snowboarders were coming up close on my left. I swung around, framed, focused and pulled off three shots as they were passing...yes, with a fully manual meterless camera. I could just as well have been using my KX with a Pentax-K 28/3.5.


Pentax SV, Super-Takumar 28/3.5, Rollei Retro 100 shot at EI 160 developed in Edwal FG-7 1+15

He was actually fairly close, but appears small courtesy of the ST 28/3.5 And yes, the negative was properly exposed courtesy of the incident light reading. No exposure compensation required.


Steve

[stevebrot]

The key to shooting quick and easy with a manual exposure camera is to only meter once per setup and to have an auto-aperture lens.

And yes, the negative was properly exposed courtesy of the incident light reading. No exposure compensation required.

It occurred to me to elaborate a little on how that all works. First, the light metering. I measured the brightness of the light striking the scene (incident light) rather than the light reflected from the scene using a hand-held meter. That approach works real well for difficult subjects with snow, sand, and such. If I were shooting with the KX, I would have taken a reading ahead of time off a photo gray card or the clear north sky (present in the photo) or grass (not present in the photo). The flow goes:

1. Establish and set exposure for the first shot
2. Frame, focus, and expose
3. Wind film
4. Repeat #2 and #3 until either the light or subject changes

While shooting, ignore the meter needle between shots unless you want to take the time to make adjustment. If the first frame was proper exposed and the light has not changed, the exposure for the rest will typically follow with little need to adjust.

I know...more than what you need. I guess I am in a verbose mood.


Steve

[Xmas]

It occurred to me to elaborate a little on how that all works. First, the light metering. I measured the brightness of the light striking the scene (incident light) rather than the light reflected from the scene using a hand-held meter. That approach works real well for difficult subjects with snow, sand, and such. If I were shooting with the KX, I would have taken a reading ahead of time off a photo gray card or the clear north sky (present in the photo) or grass (not present in the photo). The flow goes:

1. Establish and set exposure for the first shot
2. Frame, focus, and expose
3. Wind film
4. Repeat #2 and #3 until either the light or subject changes

While shooting, ignore the meter needle between shots unless you want to take the time to make adjustment. If the first frame was proper exposed and the light has not changed, the exposure for the rest will typically follow with little need to adjust.

I know...more than what you need. I guess I am in a verbose mood.


Steve

That metering technique also worked for kchrome25...
Or mono!
Using smart phone app more difficult!

We used to work that way using zone system for exbition wet prints.

If you have a eg an SV...