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09-06-2017, 02:28 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jellygeist Quote
It is the M Series lens. He has three of them. I'll include a pic.
NOW I'll include a pic

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09-06-2017, 03:27 PM   #17
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The M 50/2 does not have a great reputation, stopped down to F/8 it is ok...at least its aperture ring is better than the ring on the A series...

I had an A 50/2 with my K1000 30 years ago. It was good enough to win a Gold Key in the local Scholastic Art Awards when I was in High School...
09-06-2017, 03:36 PM   #18
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Yeah, probably gonna pick up a better lens for the KM when I finally get it. Not like I need to spend a lot of money to get a good one, it seems to be.
09-06-2017, 04:45 PM - 2 Likes   #19
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The M50/2 is a fine lens and perfectly adequate as your only 50mm lens.
It probably offers more quality for less money than nearly any other lens.
Just check the PF Pentax lens reviews...

Chris

09-06-2017, 04:53 PM - 1 Like   #20
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+1 on the M50 / f2
Back in the 80's with my K1000 it took very many great photographs that are still in the photo albums that are in our library.
Now it is my macro lens on extensions.

Clarence
09-06-2017, 04:55 PM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
The M50/2 is a fine lens and perfectly adequate as your only 50mm lens.
It probably offers more quality for less money than nearly any other lens.
Just check the PF Pentax lens reviews...

Chris
Seconded. I shoot at f/5.6 - f/11 most of the time so those wider apertures really only offer me a brighter viewfinder for focusing (which at my age is a consideration).

.
09-06-2017, 07:36 PM   #22
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I think I might pick up the M-series f1.7 Seems to be well-regarded and not expensive. Now I'm just waiting for my dad to get back from Edmonton with all the cameras.

Thanks for the advice, everybody! I was all ready to go whole-hog and spend a lot of money but now that I'm back in school, gotta start a bit more humbly. Which is probably a good thing, really.

09-06-2017, 09:01 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jellygeist Quote
I think I might pick up the M-series f1.7 Seems to be well-regarded and not expensive
It was the standard "kit" lens when I bought my MX in 1979. If you were on a budget the M 50 2.0 was cheaper and if you had money to spare you went with the M50 1.4. But pentax didn't make any substandard primes, they are all fine lenses. The M 50 1.7 is a great choice....reasonable price, plenty available, and no issues. Plenty sharp at 1.7 and at 2.8 very sharp across the whole frame. It is no surprise they kept the same optical formular for over 20 years for the 50mm 1.7 range.

I still use mine today on film and digital.
09-06-2017, 10:54 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jellygeist Quote
NOW I'll include a pic
You have enough there for a shop.
Stick with what you have no real difference unless you use slow film and a tripod.
Depends on what photos you take I shot 98% 35mm /2.8.

You need to check for:

- haze, or fungus, and that the aperture blades are free to move.
- that the shutter runs uniformly
- the battery compartments are clean

And read note any battery of correct size will be ok.

http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_kx.pdf
Most people fail to load first film!
09-07-2017, 06:11 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
You have enough there for a shop.
Stick with what you have no real difference unless you use slow film and a tripod.
Depends on what photos you take I shot 98% 35mm /2.8.

You need to check for:

- haze, or fungus, and that the aperture blades are free to move.
- that the shutter runs uniformly
- the battery compartments are clean

And read note any battery of correct size will be ok.

http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_kx.pdf
Most people fail to load first film!
I have yet to forget to load film into the camera but I'm sure it will happen sometime. I have for sure screwed up a shot with my 6x7 by not locking the shutter and taking a picture of about three feet below what I was trying to shoot.

I will inspect the lenses when I get them. I think my uncle had them in a display cabinet, which is probably not ideal but we shall see.
09-07-2017, 10:23 PM   #26
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Sorry bad English most people miss load first film 35mm is less intuitive than 120/220!
09-07-2017, 10:40 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
Sorry bad English most people miss load first film 35mm is less intuitive than 120/220!
Haha, yeah, I get you. Took me a bit to nail it down. I process my own film too so that's a whole other can of worms to load film properly onto the reels in the dark. I love how hands-on film is!
09-08-2017, 12:21 AM   #28
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Score. Having these is better than having an MX, but they're heavier. You'll need to check for shutter tapering, point the camera without a lens on at a bright plain surface, an illuminated wall, window, I use a piece of paper with a bright desk lamp close to it, open the back, and fire the shutter at 1/1000, looking at it. Use an incandescent bulb, not fluorescent. You should see the whole frame, you may have to tip the camera back and forth to make sure you can see the left and right sides clearly. Get an a 3 pack of energizer 357 and check the meters against each other, but you'll need a different battery for the SP1000. These are almost the same Pentaxes I have, except I have 2 more K1000's and one more SP1000, and an MX. I like the 50/2 too.
09-08-2017, 02:39 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ranchu Quote
You'll need to check for shutter tapering, point the camera without a lens on at a bright plain surface, an illuminated wall, window, I use a piece of paper with a bright desk lamp close to it, open the back, and fire the shutter at 1/1000, looking at it. Use an incandescent bulb, not fluorescent. You should see the whole frame
I don't quite get it. According to this, the camera should have a synch speed of 1/1000s? As far as I know you'll only see the whole frame at once at 1/60 and lower. Maybe you should be more precise in describing what Jellygeist/we should be looking for.
09-08-2017, 04:07 AM   #30
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Maybe I could be more precise, I think you meant to say. Maybe you should try it like I suggested. If you don't see the whole frame, your shutter is tapering and likely needs a CLA.

Last edited by Ranchu; 09-08-2017 at 04:40 AM.
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