Where to get light seal kits.

Pentaxlvr · 03-31-2018, 11:47 PM

I am in need of light seal kits for the following Pentax cameras: Spotmatic, ME Super, and Super Program. Can anyone name some online stores to get the parts.

Also, I am a little nervous about performing this repair, so could someone name a website where I could replace the lightseals without damaging the camera.

Lastly, is there a particular Pentax repairman that people on this forum use?

Thank you, Stephen

Adam · 04-01-2018, 12:15 AM

Check out these repair shops:
Pentax Repair Facilities (Wordwide listing) - PentaxForums.com

Eric is a community favorite, and his prices are quite reasonable

**blumoon722** · 04-01-2018, 04:39 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Pentaxlvr

I am in need of light seal kits for the following Pentax cameras: Spotmatic, ME Super, and Super Program. Can anyone name some online stores to get the parts.

I've gotten light seal kits from Jon Goodman. His kits and his instructions for each camera make the job pretty easy.
Here's a link to his site: Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions

His email address: Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com

aaacb · 04-01-2018, 08:41 AM

If you send it to a pro get it cla-ed too, the light seals fairly easy to replace at home. I am not particularly handy but I've done it myself on two cameras (super program and program plus) using closed cell foam sheets bought from a arts and crafts store. I got 1mm think foam for the mirror bumper and something thinner for the back. I used a very tiny bit of white glue; I wouldn't recommend super glue or anything that's quick to cure. Many happy rolls shot with both.

stevebrot · 04-01-2018, 09:09 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by blumoon722

Here's a link to his site: Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions

His email address: Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com

Here is another strong recommendation for Jon Goodman. His kits are the best as are his instruction guides. (I have done about a dozen bodies using his kits.)

While Jon had an eBay presence for many years, he never had a Web site AFAIK. The page linked above has a subset of the instructions that he sends with the kits and was created some time ago by either Jon or the Favorite Classics Webmaster. Jon has been doing business via e-mail only for several years and the address above is not the one he was using the last time we corresponded (see P.S. below). The address I have for him is:

JGood21967@aol.com

Steve

P.S. Address confirmed by Jon. He also confirmed the Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com as being active.

Jonathan Mac · 04-01-2018, 09:54 AM

People seem to spend money on the kits - I bought one (not sure from whom) and wasn't too impressed. Since then I order the material myself (from ebay) and cut it with an office guillotine. It's much, much cheaper and if you fudge the fitting you just cut another piece and use that. I

stevebrot · 04-01-2018, 11:12 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

People seem to spend money on the kits - I bought one (not sure from whom) and wasn't too impressed.

Since you are not sure of the source, it is hard to say whether the money was well-spent. Jon Goodman charges $10 USD for his kits with shipping included in the price. Each kit comes with extra materials, a small tool to assist in removal of the old materials (works very well), and detailed instructions. I have gone the cut-my-own route in the past and assuming I could purchase the materials in the various thicknesses and grades* for less than $10, I would hesitate to try it on the models listed by the OP due to the very narrow film door groove widths on those cameras.

The option of a full CLA was mentioned in another comment above. That usually the preferred option, particularly for bodies with mechanical horizontal-run shutters that may need adjustment and lubrication. Eric Hendrickson (high revered on this site) does a nice job on the seals in that he uses doped yarn for the film door light traps as part of his CLA.

Steve

* For example, the Super Program requires three closed-cell foam strips for the film door light traps, two thin open-cell strips to augment the hinge-side traps, a thin flocked-fabric strip for the hinge butt panel, and a single thick open-cell mirror bumper strip with cut-out for an adjustment screw.

Last edited by stevebrot; 04-01-2018 at 11:22 AM. Reason: clarity

stevebrot · 04-01-2018, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by aaacb

I used a very tiny bit of white glue; I wouldn't recommend super glue or anything that's quick to cure. Many happy rolls shot with both.

Thanks for noting this! Super glue is a major no-no in that the vapors will craze things like focus screens and eyepiece oculars. White glue might be problematic in that it will be hard to remove in the future. Self-adhesive foam along with simple compression fit where appropriate (film door light trap) is preferred.

Steve

Ranchu · 04-01-2018, 12:30 PM

I 've used Jon Goodman's kits and also done it myself with random scavenged foam. The main thing is the time and fooling around with DIY, I use regular contact adhesive from the dollar store, in a tube, just on the foam. Jon Goodman's kits have nice foams with adhesive backing which I slather with a layer of Purell unscented hand sanitizer to keep it from sticking while I position it. I recommend his kits without reservation, but the main part of this job is removing the old foam. Q tips, lighter fliud, and bamboo skewers from the grocery store carved into chisel shapes are what i use.

Eyewanders · 04-02-2018, 10:58 AM

Yet another GLOWING ENDORSEMENT of Jon Goodman. I've done DIY myself as well - it can be just fine, but you'll spend a fair amount of time gather the proper thicknesses and figuring out exact measurements making sure you don't miss anythhing.

John's are ready to go and of the three I've done with his kits, they've all be better than spot-on. WELL worth 10 bucks IMHO. He's also one of the most helpful and genuinely friendly persons that I've ever had the pleasure of communicating with via email.

**OldChE** · 09-07-2018, 06:19 PM

I also have used Mr. Goodman's kits and instructions, and they are top notch. His instructions are excellent, and he is very good about providing help by email as well.

**blumoon722** · 09-08-2018, 04:50 AM

Another place to get light seal kits is : Aki-Asahi Camera Coverings
If you scroll down on this page, you'll see he sells light kits for Canon, Olympus, Pentax, etc.
The kits I got were $8.00 for a sheet with enough for 3 cameras (3 precut sets with adhesive backed seals)
Some of Jon Goodmans sets came without adhesive backing for the door seals which I found easier to use than the adhesive backed, He cut them so they'd fit in without adhesive.

stevebrot · 09-08-2018, 08:16 AM

Originally posted by blumoon722

Some of Jon Goodmans sets came without adhesive backing for the door seals which I found easier to use than the adhesive backed,

That is one of Jon's hallmark features. Adhesive is problematic for the door seals.

Steve

abruzzi · 09-08-2018, 09:11 AM

Originally posted by stevebrot

That is one of Jon's hallmark features. Adhesive is problematic for the door seals.

Steve

What holds them in place, friction? (Obviously when the door is closed, the body holds them in place, I’m just curious how secure they are when the door is opened.)

stevebrot · 09-08-2018, 11:06 AM

Originally posted by abruzzi

What holds them in place, friction? (Obviously when the door is closed, the body holds them in place, I’m just curious how secure they are when the door is opened.)

The material is a very resilient closed-cell foam cut slightly oversized. One presses it shiny-side out into the slot with a toothpick or supplied tool and it simply stays put. The material resists twisting and is quite easily laid in place.

Steve

03-31-2018, 11:47 PM	#1
Pentaxlvr Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Michigan Photos: Gallery Posts: 46	Where to get light seal kits. I am in need of light seal kits for the following Pentax cameras: Spotmatic, ME Super, and Super Program. Can anyone name some online stores to get the parts. Also, I am a little nervous about performing this repair, so could someone name a website where I could replace the lightseals without damaging the camera. Lastly, is there a particular Pentax repairman that people on this forum use? Thank you, Stephen

04-01-2018, 12:15 AM	#2
Adam Administrator Site Webmaster Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Arizona Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 51,595	Check out these repair shops: Pentax Repair Facilities (Wordwide listing) - PentaxForums.com Eric is a community favorite, and his prices are quite reasonable Adam PentaxForums.com Webmaster (Site Usage Guide \| Site Help \| My Photography) PentaxForums.com server and development costs are user-supported. You can help cover these costs by donating or purchasing one of our Pentax eBooks. Or, buy your photo gear from our affiliates, Adorama, B&H Photo, KEH, or Topaz Labs, and get FREE Marketplace access - click here to see how! Trusted Pentax retailers:

04-01-2018, 09:09 AM - 1 Like	#5
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by blumoon722 Here's a link to his site: Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions His email address: Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com Here is another strong recommendation for Jon Goodman. His kits are the best as are his instruction guides. (I have done about a dozen bodies using his kits.) While Jon had an eBay presence for many years, he never had a Web site AFAIK. The page linked above has a subset of the instructions that he sends with the kits and was created some time ago by either Jon or the Favorite Classics Webmaster. Jon has been doing business via e-mail only for several years and the address above is not the one he was using the last time we corresponded (see P.S. below). The address I have for him is: JGood21967@aol.com Steve P.S. Address confirmed by Jon. He also confirmed the Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com as being active. Last edited by stevebrot; 04-01-2018 at 11:20 AM.

04-01-2018, 11:17 AM	#8
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by aaacb I used a very tiny bit of white glue; I wouldn't recommend super glue or anything that's quick to cure. Many happy rolls shot with both. Thanks for noting this! Super glue is a major no-no in that the vapors will craze things like focus screens and eyepiece oculars. White glue might be problematic in that it will be hard to remove in the future. Self-adhesive foam along with simple compression fit where appropriate (film door light trap) is preferred. Steve Last edited by stevebrot; 04-01-2018 at 11:23 AM.

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04-01-2018, 04:39 AM - 1 Like	#3
blumoon722 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 424	Originally posted by Pentaxlvr I am in need of light seal kits for the following Pentax cameras: Spotmatic, ME Super, and Super Program. Can anyone name some online stores to get the parts. I've gotten light seal kits from Jon Goodman. His kits and his instructions for each camera make the job pretty easy. Here's a link to his site: Favorite Classics / Jon Goodman's Seal Replacement Instructions His email address: Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com

04-01-2018, 08:41 AM	#4
aaacb Pentaxian Join Date: May 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,725	If you send it to a pro get it cla-ed too, the light seals fairly easy to replace at home. I am not particularly handy but I've done it myself on two cameras (super program and program plus) using closed cell foam sheets bought from a arts and crafts store. I got 1mm think foam for the mirror bumper and something thinner for the back. I used a very tiny bit of white glue; I wouldn't recommend super glue or anything that's quick to cure. Many happy rolls shot with both.

04-01-2018, 09:54 AM	#6
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	People seem to spend money on the kits - I bought one (not sure from whom) and wasn't too impressed. Since then I order the material myself (from ebay) and cut it with an office guillotine. It's much, much cheaper and if you fudge the fitting you just cut another piece and use that. I

04-01-2018, 11:12 AM	#7
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac People seem to spend money on the kits - I bought one (not sure from whom) and wasn't too impressed. Since you are not sure of the source, it is hard to say whether the money was well-spent. Jon Goodman charges $10 USD for his kits with shipping included in the price. Each kit comes with extra materials, a small tool to assist in removal of the old materials (works very well), and detailed instructions. I have gone the cut-my-own route in the past and assuming I could purchase the materials in the various thicknesses and grades* for less than $10, I would hesitate to try it on the models listed by the OP due to the very narrow film door groove widths on those cameras. The option of a full CLA was mentioned in another comment above. That usually the preferred option, particularly for bodies with mechanical horizontal-run shutters that may need adjustment and lubrication. Eric Hendrickson (high revered on this site) does a nice job on the seals in that he uses doped yarn for the film door light traps as part of his CLA. Steve * For example, the Super Program requires three closed-cell foam strips for the film door light traps, two thin open-cell strips to augment the hinge-side traps, a thin flocked-fabric strip for the hinge butt panel, and a single thick open-cell mirror bumper strip with cut-out for an adjustment screw. Last edited by stevebrot; 04-01-2018 at 11:22 AM. Reason: clarity

04-01-2018, 12:30 PM	#9
Ranchu Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 151	I 've used Jon Goodman's kits and also done it myself with random scavenged foam. The main thing is the time and fooling around with DIY, I use regular contact adhesive from the dollar store, in a tube, just on the foam. Jon Goodman's kits have nice foams with adhesive backing which I slather with a layer of Purell unscented hand sanitizer to keep it from sticking while I position it. I recommend his kits without reservation, but the main part of this job is removing the old foam. Q tips, lighter fliud, and bamboo skewers from the grocery store carved into chisel shapes are what i use.

04-02-2018, 10:58 AM	#10
Eyewanders Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Land of the Salish Sea Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343	Yet another GLOWING ENDORSEMENT of Jon Goodman. I've done DIY myself as well - it can be just fine, but you'll spend a fair amount of time gather the proper thicknesses and figuring out exact measurements making sure you don't miss anythhing. John's are ready to go and of the three I've done with his kits, they've all be better than spot-on. WELL worth 10 bucks IMHO. He's also one of the most helpful and genuinely friendly persons that I've ever had the pleasure of communicating with via email.

09-07-2018, 06:19 PM	#11
OldChE Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicago area Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 484	I also have used Mr. Goodman's kits and instructions, and they are top notch. His instructions are excellent, and he is very good about providing help by email as well.

09-08-2018, 04:50 AM	#12
blumoon722 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 424	Another place to get light seal kits is : Aki-Asahi Camera Coverings If you scroll down on this page, you'll see he sells light kits for Canon, Olympus, Pentax, etc. The kits I got were $8.00 for a sheet with enough for 3 cameras (3 precut sets with adhesive backed seals) Some of Jon Goodmans sets came without adhesive backing for the door seals which I found easier to use than the adhesive backed, He cut them so they'd fit in without adhesive.

09-08-2018, 08:16 AM	#13
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by blumoon722 Some of Jon Goodmans sets came without adhesive backing for the door seals which I found easier to use than the adhesive backed, That is one of Jon's hallmark features. Adhesive is problematic for the door seals. Steve

09-08-2018, 09:11 AM	#14
abruzzi Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: New Mexico Posts: 788	Originally posted by stevebrot That is one of Jon's hallmark features. Adhesive is problematic for the door seals. Steve What holds them in place, friction? (Obviously when the door is closed, the body holds them in place, I’m just curious how secure they are when the door is opened.)

09-08-2018, 11:06 AM	#15
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by abruzzi What holds them in place, friction? (Obviously when the door is closed, the body holds them in place, I’m just curious how secure they are when the door is opened.) The material is a very resilient closed-cell foam cut slightly oversized. One presses it shiny-side out into the slot with a toothpick or supplied tool and it simply stays put. The material resists twisting and is quite easily laid in place. Steve