[woof]

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Not much to add, other than to take the sunny f/16 rule with a grain of salt...and remember that it doesn't work inside. Light is extremely variable in indoor situations, so I find a light meter is sort of non-negotiable.

I was the one who suggested learning Sunny Sixteen. However, this really is the truth. Sunny sixteen is for outdoors.

Get that meter up and running. Even when I am shooting with a camera that does not have a meter I constantly check my assumption in difficult situations with a hand-held meter. I am usually wrong indoors. Heh.

If your meter is truly down, and the batteries don't work, consider getting a hand held meter to tide you over until you can spare the time for a trip to Eric. It never hurts to have a back up meter. There are plenty of vintage meters out there for very little money. Happy to make recommendation if it comes to that.

Straightshooter is 100% correct on the model of battery to get for a Spotmatic F. There are other options, but these are plentiful and generally available.

woof!

[stevebrot]

Exposure is much more critical when using color reversal film.
For consistently well-exposed slides you must use a meter.

If you insist on not using a meter, stick to negative films...

Chris

I want to second the advice regarding a meter. Slide film has very, very limited exposure latitude.

The camera's built in meter is a good option, but as it was mentioned earlier, the mercury batteries that were originally used in the SP are no longer available. It is possible to use the Wein cells as suggested, but the lifetime of that battery type is severely limited once the package is opened. There is a conversion using a diode-based adapter that allows use of commonly available silver cells with no need to recalibrate the meter. Battery life and performance curves are similar to the mercury cells. I will look up the link if I have the time.

A more serious option is a hand-held meter, preferably with the option for incident light metering. In many ways, the amount of light illuminating a scene is more important than the amount of light reflected back.

Steve

P.S. Eric may be able to do the diode conversion as part of fixing the meter if that is the problem.

[woof]

There is a conversion using a diode-based adapter that allows use of commonly available silver cells with no need to recalibrate the meter. Battery life and performance curves are similar to the mercury cells. I will look up the link if I have the time.

Excellent option. I have one in my Spotmatic F. Actually, I don't think mine uses a diode but it works very well. It really is a thing of beauty. The batteries it uses are quite inexpensive, no recalibration necessary.

Classic Camera Workshop. He sells these on eBay. See: eBay Seller: classic camera workshop: Camera Parts Repair, Film Cameras items on eBay.com

A more serious option is a hand-held meter, preferably with the option for incident light metering. In many ways, the amount of light illuminating a scene is more important than the amount of light reflected back.

Again, I concur. This is my preferred option. I use a Sekonic Flashmate. Retail on the thing is something like 250.00 but I picked up a hardly used one on eBay for 100.00 plus shipping. It has will also do duty as a flash meter. One of the best pieces of equipment I have ever purchased. Always with me when I shoot.

woof!

[lithos]

I've gotta say, 100 ISO probably just doesn't cut it for indoor shots, especially with trannies. Try 400 or even 800 ISO - 400 will mean your shutter speed goes from 1/60 to 1/250, or your aperture goes from, say, f2.8 to f5.6.

As others have said - there is always less light than you think.

[titrisol]

Batteries for the Spottie?
there should be a thread on this, but IMHE I have used alkalines/silver batteries since I can rememeber.
My father had a spottie (bought new in 1972 o 73) and he used silver batteries since the early 80s.
Years later (early 90s) I ran a test with a Spotmatic (Silver batteries) and a Nikon FE2 (fresh batteries) both with 50/1.4 lenses. The results were always within 1/3 stop so no big deal.
I do not knwo if the SP-F is any different but the one from my fathe rin law has been running in silver oxide since 2003 (I changed those) and no adverse problem so far.

The spotmatic group in yahoo has the attached pdf on Batteries which confirmed my observations.

[séamuis]

eBay Seller: classic camera workshop: Camera Parts Repair, Film Cameras items on eBay.com

thanks for that link, I ordered one today.

[titrisol]

HU: JonGoodman sells these for $10 each... (search interslice in ebay an email him)

[miniheli]

Thanks guys, Im gonna get a battery for the light meter.

[miniheli]

I still didnt get the meter. But I just want to say that I got a pretty firm handle on the technical stuff on the camera.
I have some projects comeing up and want (not need) a macro lens for the spotmatic. I really like the really close up photographs in some of the peoples gallary. Any recomendations? By the way, so far no problems with the spot. This camera takes really nice building shots around town. I am getting a new scanner soon, my old hp all in one is giving me head pains.

[stevebrot]

Classic Camera Workshop. He sells these on eBay. See: eBay Seller: classic camera workshop: Camera Parts Repair, Film Cameras items on eBay.com

Item is no longer listed

I was going to buy one!

Steve

[Lowell Goudge]

Spotmatic sp-f with smc Takumar 1.4/50 lens
btw I am not using the spotmatics metering system.

if it's working maybe you should, or consider getting it fixed, or picking up a hand held meter.

I used my KX for years in low light and the metering was fine.

I also found a sekonic reflected light meter with an extended range sensor that works very well

[Nesster]

I still didnt get the meter. But I just want to say that I got a pretty firm handle on the technical stuff on the camera.
I have some projects comeing up and want (not need) a macro lens for the spotmatic. I really like the really close up photographs in some of the peoples gallary. Any recomendations? By the way, so far no problems with the spot. This camera takes really nice building shots around town. I am getting a new scanner soon, my old hp all in one is giving me head pains.

The very first thing you ought to do: spring for the $15 to get a set of extension rings. Use with your 50. Works great, unless you want to do flat field (ie. books, stamps) photography. I'd be happy just with my extension tubes, even though I have a Tamron 90/2.5 macro lens, I often use my tubes.

[I've also experimented with good results mixing tubes and a 2x tele extender - in this order: lens -> tube -> 2x -> camera]


The built in meter works well in any hand-holdable situations. Beyond that, a tripod, cable release, and an external meter will do wonders. And yeah, I do the 1-Mississippi 2-Mississippi thing, as for multi second exposures the ultimate precision isn't often necessary. If it is, get a camera with electronically controlled shutter that meters and sets exposure to 30 sec. (Just because it can time 30 seconds doesn't mean it can meter it! My Program Plus does, my ZX-10 doesnt)

[woof]

Item is no longer listed
I was going to buy one!

Steve: go to his store and ask him to make one of these up for you. I am sure he will.

eBay My World - classic_camera_workshop

BTW, just so folks know he has done some nice work repairing some old Takumars for me. He did a great job on my 2.8 105mm Auto Takumar.

Seaain

[woof]

Item is no longer listed
I was going to buy one!

Steve: go to his store and ask him to make one of these up for you. I am sure he will do it.

eBay My World - classic_camera_workshop

BTW, just so folks know he has done some nice work repairing some old Takumars for me. He did a great job on my 2.8 105mm Auto Takumar.

Seaain

[stevebrot]

Steve: go to his store and ask him to make one of these up for you. I am sure he will do it.

eBay My World - classic_camera_workshop

BTW, just so folks know he has done some nice work repairing some old Takumars for me. He did a great job on my 2.8 105mm Auto Takumar.

Seaain

Thank you, I will do that!

Steve