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09-16-2008, 07:15 PM   #1
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Low light photography with a spotmatic?

Hello

I just came back from the processing lab and got my transparency (fujichrome/100iso film) made for class. All the pictures I have taken in the bright sunny slightly overcast day turned out amazing! But most of the indoor pictures I took were either way to underexposed or just became complete darkness! I'm not blaming my camera at all. I'm 100% sure it was all my fault. The indoor pictures I took were in rather dim light and I had my F-number at around 5 or 4 most of the time with a shutter speed of 1/125 sec. I believe I had my lens way to closed. I will try to open the lens up more for the next time I shoot indoors. But before I start taking more pics, is there any tips for shooting indoors in semi dim light?
I was thinking about setting my camera up for F/1.4 @ 1/60 sec. Just a little worried that the low shutter speed of 1/60 sec would cause allot of unwelcome camera shake.

Guess this would be helpful.

Spotmatic sp-f with smc Takumar 1.4/50 lens
btw I am not using the spotmatics metering system.


Last edited by miniheli; 09-16-2008 at 07:23 PM.
09-16-2008, 08:28 PM   #2
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The rule of thumb is that the lowest shutter speed you use, is the inverse of the lens length. This is for hand held.

So with the 50mm, a shutter of 1/60 would not be too slow.

I forget if you mentioned if your light meter works or not. If it does, it would be a great help in low light situations.

Also consider using faster film. I think most Spoties can use up to 1600 ISO with the light meter. 1600 ISO will give you four extra stops over the 100 you are using. In otherwords, if you are shooting 1/60 with iso 100, you could shoot 1/1000. Or to look at it the other way, if your iso 100 calls for 1/4, iso 1600 will give you 1/60.

Enjoy your spotie. I have one that used to belong to my Dad. It was the first SLR I ever used. I have a real soft spot for those fine old machines.

Eric.

I almost forgot! Post some pics! Lets see what the new photographer and his new gear are up to!
09-16-2008, 09:17 PM   #3
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Thank you KungPOW. Your explanation made alot of sense. Ill keep a few fast films in my bag.

" I forget if you mentioned if your light meter works or not. If it does, it would be a great help in low light situations."


I haven't used it yet since I lack the batteries to power it. But I will defiantly get some soon, anything to make things alittle bit easier, but not to easy:


"Enjoy your spotie. I have one that used to belong to my Dad. It was the first SLR I ever used. I have a real soft spot for those fine old machines.

Eric.

I almost forgot! Post some pics! Lets see what the new photographer and his new gear are up to!"

I will, I love this camera. Its funny to think that I used to be a person that only cared about the latest and "greatest" technology, but I am now finding out that this camera has sort of converted me, Same here, this is my first real SLR, along side with my rebel.

Cool. I will defiantly try to post some pics in the near future. Thanks for the help Peace
09-16-2008, 10:43 PM   #4
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For indoors 60 or 30 are the speed I find myself using more.
For color print film a bit of overexposure will do no harm so train yourself to hold the camera steady to do 30/2.8 or 30/1.8 depending on your lens

For the Spottie almost any battery will do, I think the 357 is the one I use

09-17-2008, 03:52 AM   #5
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Definitely, get that meter powered for indoors especially. There's often less light than we think: so even one reading in the room - of what you'd want to be in the mid tones lighting wise - will get you into the right area.
09-17-2008, 04:09 AM   #6
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QuoteQuote:
I will, I love this camera. Its funny to think that I used to be a person that only cared about the latest and "greatest" technology, but I am now finding out that this camera has sort of converted me
I know all about that.

I agree with the light meter, sunny 16 is easy enough and works great outdoors but when indoors I think a light meter is a very good thing to have.

I believe (and correct me if I'm wrong) but a Wein Cell PX400 1.35v Zinc Air battery would be your best bet for replacement of the old 1.35v mercury battery that your SP-F takes. they can be had for about 5 bucks I believe.
09-17-2008, 05:48 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
I believe (and correct me if I'm wrong) but a Wein Cell PX400 1.35v Zinc Air battery would be your best bet for replacement of the old 1.35v mercury battery that your SP-F takes.
Actually,unlike most Spotmatics, the Spotmatic F for some reason uses the same battery as the old clip on meters. So for the SP F it would take a WEIN Cell PX625.

CW

09-17-2008, 06:46 AM   #8
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Not much to add, other than to take the sunny f/16 rule with a grain of salt...and remember that it doesn't work inside. Light is extremely variable in indoor situations, so I find a light meter is sort of non-negotiable.

Gotta love that spotmatic. So you probably have, what, a Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4 on there? My favorite lens. Best focus ring of any lens I've ever used.

Get a few of those wein zinc air cell batteries. They don't last as long as a traditional batteries.
09-17-2008, 06:58 AM   #9
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Sorry: I completely forgot about the battery issue when you were debating which camera to get... the regular Spotmatics have a bridge circuit and can use modern batteries without a problem. But I don't think the SP-F poses too much of an issue after all, plus open aperture metering is cool.
09-17-2008, 08:57 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
But I don't think the SP-F poses too much of an issue after all, plus open aperture metering is cool.
Just to clarify, though, while his camera supports open-aperture metering, his lens does not.
09-17-2008, 11:42 AM   #11
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how would an SMC Takumar not support open aperture metering? I thought all S-M-C and SMC Takumars have the open aperture pin.
09-17-2008, 02:42 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
how would an SMC Takumar not support open aperture metering? I thought all S-M-C and SMC Takumars have the open aperture pin.
My brain was still operating off of post #27 in his initial thread, in which he was about to order a Super Takumar. The latter post in which he indicated he got the SMC version didn't register.
09-17-2008, 03:12 PM   #13
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Thought I would dive in here to say that I have found ISO800 to work great indoors...
09-17-2008, 03:12 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by miniheli Quote
Hello

I just came back from the processing lab and got my transparency (fujichrome/100iso film) made for class. All the pictures I have taken in the bright sunny slightly overcast day turned out amazing! But most of the indoor pictures I took were either way to underexposed or just became complete darkness! I'm not blaming my camera at all. I'm 100% sure it was all my fault. The indoor pictures I took were in rather dim light and I had my F-number at around 5 or 4 most of the time with a shutter speed of 1/125 sec. I believe I had my lens way to closed. I will try to open the lens up more for the next time I shoot indoors. But before I start taking more pics, is there any tips for shooting indoors in semi dim light?
I was thinking about setting my camera up for F/1.4 @ 1/60 sec. Just a little worried that the low shutter speed of 1/60 sec would cause allot of unwelcome camera shake.

Guess this would be helpful.

Spotmatic sp-f with smc Takumar 1.4/50 lens
btw I am not using the spotmatics metering system.
I used to go out at night with my KX and F1.4 50mm, shooting B&W at 1/30 of a second (film was pushed to either 1600 or 3200 ISO)

Never had an issue with blurry photos. Good technique can compensate for about an additional stop.
09-17-2008, 03:24 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
I used to go out at night with my KX and F1.4 50mm, shooting B&W at 1/30 of a second (film was pushed to either 1600 or 3200 ISO)

Never had an issue with blurry photos. Good technique can compensate for about an additional stop.
There is an additional consideration. The 35mm format is more forgiving of camera motion than the APS-C digital format. With a 50mm or shorter lens you can go as slow as 1/15s with steady hands and good technique.

Steve
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