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10-03-2018, 08:14 AM   #91
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QuoteOriginally posted by twilhelm Quote
I recently found a deal on eBay I couldn't pass. A black K2 with lens and flash. The photo's weren't the greatest, so I ended up paying $40.
A $40 Black K2 ?
SCORE !!
Congratulations !

I had one of my K2s out last weekend shooting at the Salinas Air Show. Got a nice compliment about the camera from another photographer who noticed the K2

10-03-2018, 09:29 AM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by MossyRocks Quote
All the patents on the K1000s and older Spotmatics are long expired so I'm surprised there isn't someone making clones of one or both.
The K1000 has been cloned in China, but quality is...err. spotty.


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10-03-2018, 09:44 AM   #93
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Sorry to be so late on this thread, but I will comment anyway.

High prices for K1000s has been the norm for at least the last decade and are driven by the advice of multiple online sources as well as the equipment lists used by photography instructors at local schools. Here in the Portland, Oregon area, it is not unusual to see a clean and serviced K1000 go for $150 USD or more, body only.

That being said, higher than average value also extends to a few other camera models, for example:
  • It is hard to find a clean MX for less than $200 USD
  • Prices for Nikon FM and FE series are perennially high
  • Olympus XA prices (original model) over $200 USD and often $300+

For those seeking the K1000 experience (full-manual mechanical K-mount with simple viewfinder), the usual suggestion is a KM or any of the many full-manual cameras from Ricoh, Chinon, or Cosina, most of which are fully mechanical. If K-mount is not required, 1970s vintage Minolta might be a good option. The bodies are robust and the optics quite good.


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10-03-2018, 09:58 AM   #94
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
For those seeking the K1000 experience (full-manual mechanical K-mount with simple viewfinder), the usual suggestion is a KM or any of the many full-manual cameras from Ricoh, Chinon, or Cosina, most of which are fully mechanical. If K-mount is not required, 1970s vintage Minolta might be a good option. The bodies are robust and the optics quite good.


Steve
While I do have a fondness for the SRT series Minoltas, they require a workaround for the light meter battery.

10-03-2018, 10:27 AM   #95
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
While I do have a fondness for the SRT series Minoltas, they require a workaround for the light meter battery.
Why is that? I've always found the 625 batteries work fine with any of the SRT Minoltas.

amazon.com: Duracell 625A E625GBP K625A PX625A MR09 1.5V Alkaline Battery FAST USA SHIP: Health & Personal Care?tag=pentaxforums-20&
10-03-2018, 10:34 AM   #96
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
Why is that? I've always found the 625 batteries work fine with any of the SRT Minoltas.

amazon.com: Duracell 625A E625GBP K625A PX625A MR09 1.5V Alkaline Battery FAST USA SHIP: Health & Personal Care?tag=pentaxforums-20&
Maybe for black and white film, but I'm pretty sure that meter does not have the voltage regulation necessary for accurate metering with an alkaline battery, at least compared to the original mercury battery.

I'd be happy to be proven wrong, but I'm sure an Alkaline battery is going to be off by at least half a stop.
10-03-2018, 10:43 AM - 1 Like   #97
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
While I do have a fondness for the SRT series Minoltas, they require a workaround for the light meter battery.
This is true. I use an MR-9 adapter purchased from Kanto Camera (the maker) in Japan. The MR-9 works well with a 386 silver cell to provide the correct voltage.

Kanto Camera | Battery Adapters

The same may be purchased from C.R.I.S. in the US for somewhat more money.


Steve

(...no relation to Kanto except as a satisfied customer...)

10-03-2018, 10:49 AM - 1 Like   #98
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
This is true. I use an MR-9 adapter purchased from Kanto Camera (the maker) in Japan. The MR-9 works well with a 386 silver cell to provide the correct voltage.

Kanto Camera | Battery Adapters

The same may be purchased from C.R.I.S. in the US for somewhat more money.


Steve

(...no relation to Kanto except as a satisfied customer...)
That's my favorite solution as well. as you don't have to constantly replace zinc-air batteries.
10-03-2018, 11:26 AM   #99
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Maybe for black and white film, but I'm pretty sure that meter does not have the voltage regulation necessary for accurate metering with an alkaline battery, at least compared to the original mercury battery.

I'd be happy to be proven wrong, but I'm sure an Alkaline battery is going to be off by at least half a stop.
The Exell MRB625 is rated at 1.35V and I doubt a zinc air battery vs. mercury oxide makes any difference.

And in practice, my experience with the 1.5V alkaline is fine. If I calibrate it and see if it is off >1/3 EV, then I'll just adjust my ISO accordingly.

I have a sensor that measures shutter speeds and most older SLRs will have a variation of about 1/3 EV anyway.
Cumulatively, that could work against you, depending if it is + or - but unless you're shooting slide film or <160 ISO negs, it's splitting hairs....and if I want to nail my exposures with low ISO or slides, I'll bracket regardless.

BTW: My second camera system started with a Minolta SRT-202 purchased in Japan and grew into four cameras and six lenses before they were all stolen.
10-03-2018, 11:49 AM   #100
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I was in school for photography in 1993-ish... film only. It was the era of electronic plastic junk (I know, it wasn't ALL junk, it's just a personal preference thing), jenky LCD screens and lots of buttons that would often stick, pop out or just not work. I wanted a mechanical camera. A used K1000 body would run you something like $150, so I got a Cosina (can't now remember the model) that had a K-mount. Sometime later in my college career, I found a Spotmatic SP500 for a good price (around $75, I think), with a 55mm f-2 Super Takumar on it. I loved that camera and loaned out my Cosina. All these years later, having had no luck with (or love for) digital cameras (they remind me of the old electronic stuff), getting back into film, I picked up several nice Spotmatic bodies and an army of lenses, had them CLA'd and I'm off to the races. I definitely prefer the M42 mount and accompanying lenses. As for the K1000 being so much more pricey, I'm sure that it's just a popularity and name (model) recognition thing. A lot of folks seem to be looking into film and the K1000 is simply a popular, well-known camera. I'm glad prices for the K1000 are high and folks seem to prefer them to the older Spotmatics, as it keeps the Spotmatic prices down a bit... for now.
10-03-2018, 12:12 PM   #101
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
The Exell MRB625 is rated at 1.35V and I doubt a zinc air battery vs. mercury oxide makes any difference.

And in practice, my experience with the 1.5V alkaline is fine. If I calibrate it and see if it is off >1/3 EV, then I'll just adjust my ISO accordingly.

I have a sensor that measures shutter speeds and most older SLRs will have a variation of about 1/3 EV anyway.
Cumulatively, that could work against you, depending if it is + or - but unless you're shooting slide film or <160 ISO negs, it's splitting hairs....and if I want to nail my exposures with low ISO or slides, I'll bracket regardless.

BTW: My second camera system started with a Minolta SRT-202 purchased in Japan and grew into four cameras and six lenses before they were all stolen.
Yes, the Zinc-Air is a common good alternative, as is a voltage reducer for a silver oxide battery. The biggest problem with alkaline batteries is their discharge curve, not their voltage. Silver, Zinc-Air, and Mercury batteries all have a much more consistent discharge curve than an alkaline battery -- those three have constant voltage, and the voltage basically falls off a cliff when the batteries are done. Alkaline batteries have a more logarithmic discharge curve, so a simple ISO compensation will work, but the meter will become more inaccurate as the battery discharges.


One of the most wonderful things with the Spotmatics is that they had circuitry that could handle the alkaline discharge curve, and still work accurately.
10-03-2018, 12:37 PM - 1 Like   #102
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QuoteOriginally posted by Driftwood Quote
I'm glad prices for the K1000 are high and folks seem to prefer them to the older Spotmatics, as it keeps the Spotmatic prices down a bit... for now.
Get em while the getting is good. Last year I picked up a basically unused Spotmatic F that had been CLAd complete with SMC 55mm f/1.8 body cap for $70 as a backup to my existing Spotmatic F when I sent it in for a CLA. The newer one looks to be one where someone bought it new, maybe sent a couple of rolls through it and then put it in a drawer. Even the film canister holder was scratch free.I've been tempted to get more and was really tempted to get one that was still sealed in the original box but at $200 I would have been torn between opening it or keeping it in the box so I left that decision for someone else.
10-03-2018, 01:30 PM - 2 Likes   #103
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QuoteOriginally posted by Moe49 Quote
A $40 Black K2 ?
SCORE !!
Congratulations !

I had one of my K2s out last weekend shooting at the Salinas Air Show. Got a nice compliment about the camera from another photographer who noticed the K2
I'm just running a roll of Portra 160 through my K2DMD in the name of testing my new-to-me K 120mm... 😊
10-03-2018, 01:36 PM   #104
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QuoteOriginally posted by womble Quote
K2DMD in the name of testing my new-to-me K 120mm..
A very nice combo indeed!

Enjoy and post.

Phil.
10-03-2018, 01:59 PM - 1 Like   #105
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Yes, the Zinc-Air is a common good alternative, as is a voltage reducer for a silver oxide battery. The biggest problem with alkaline batteries is their discharge curve, not their voltage. Silver, Zinc-Air, and Mercury batteries all have a much more consistent discharge curve than an alkaline battery -- those three have constant voltage, and the voltage basically falls off a cliff when the batteries are done. Alkaline batteries have a more logarithmic discharge curve, so a simple ISO compensation will work, but the meter will become more inaccurate as the battery discharges.


One of the most wonderful things with the Spotmatics is that they had circuitry that could handle the alkaline discharge curve, and still work accurately.
Not "strictly" true. The spotties work on a balanced bridge circuit. So as the same voltage is applied to both sides, the null or centre point will be correct independent of voltage. However away from that the swing is dependent on voltage. So with a silver cell The needle will move further away for half a stop over or under than with a mercury cell.
Nevertheless, it is a workable situation if you don't mind inaccurate metering. If you wish an accurate meter reading, the best way is a good handheld meter.
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