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11-24-2018, 02:53 AM   #1
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Pentax MV1 broken light meter

hi all, i am fairly new into shooting with film cameras and have a few questions about the mv1. i bought it at a really good bargain, however it seems like the light meter is spoiled. i have switched out several batteries and nothing has changed. with the light meter being spoiled, is it safe to assume i wont be able to operate the camera on auto mode? i would have to use "b" or "100x" mode? any other tips on the pentax mv1 would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance!

11-24-2018, 04:13 AM   #2
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option #1: Asahi Pentax Clip On Prism Top Mount SLR Camera Light Meter - Works | eBay

or

option #2:


if i were you i would go with option #2 on a temporary basis, but keep your eyes peeled for another camera at the right price! the mv1 will only use the battery for the light meter, if i am not mistaken. other than that, you are fully mechanical.

using this twisted and often desperate methodology, as of now i have 6 fully functional pentax film cameras, all which were acquired since last spring. in addition to that, i have 13 pentax primes from various eras. all told, i may have spent $250 USD for all of it. this includes two rare lenses that sell for north of $250 USD and a collector's edition body! naturally, i will never get that time back, no matter what i do now it's gone... but who cares!! i have a real kit for the first time in my life!! mwa-ha-ha-ha!!

occasionally there will be some unsavory attempts at bartering involved--always the seller advocating for an outlandish pricing structure. no matter how respectable or beguiling these sellers might initially appear, unless they have taken the time to repair and maintain their equipment you have no choice but to ignore their charm and take their negligence into consideration when you decide on a price...

usually i end up parting out non-functional cameras for next to nothing--but not before i swap the lenses around in a game of three-card-monty that results in only the best glass pentax ever manufactured in my own bag...

of all of the copious camera options i suddenly have at my disposal, i am a big fan of the k1000 -- i use it most often (as i live in a frozen tundra hell-hole; the k1000 doesn't have any issues down to -25įC). not only is it virtually freeze-proof AND a tank for street photography, it is quite possibly the easiest camera of all time one might learn how to shoot film with. frankly i'm still incredulous that i only paid $50 for it. if you count the gear it came with that i've since sold off, the k1000 cost me $10...

#themo'youknow

Last edited by punkrachmaninov; 11-24-2018 at 04:38 AM.
11-24-2018, 05:01 AM   #3
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The MV1 uses the battery to time the shutter as well as run the meter.
When the meter went on the (similar) MG I had years ago, it took the shutter with it. And at the time repair people wouldn't touch it (Why would you fix that?).

You should still get the 1/100 s and bulb, though.

Oh, and the light meter linked above is designed to fit earlier cameras and won't fit your MV1.

If it were me, I'd pick up something a little more manual in nature...
A ME Super would be nearly identical to your MV1 in terms of form factor, while providing manual shutter control.

The MX is fully manual and about the same size but will likely cost more.

And any of the K bodies are also good choices, though a lot chunkier...

Good Luck

-Eric

Last edited by TwoUptons; 11-24-2018 at 05:04 AM. Reason: added light meter information...
11-24-2018, 05:06 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by TwoUptons Quote
The MV1 uses the battery to time the shutter as well as run the meter.
When the meter went on the (similar) MG I had years ago, it took the shutter with it. And at the time repair people wouldn't touch it (Why would you fix that?).

You should still get the 1/100 s and bulb, though.

Oh, and the light meter linked above is designed to fit earlier cameras and won't fit your MV1.

If it were me, I'd pick up something a little more manual in nature...
A ME Super would be nearly identical to your MV1 in terms of form factor, while providing manual shutter control.

The MX is fully manual and about the same size but will likely cost more.

And any of the K bodies are also good choices, though a lot chunkier...

Good Luck

-Eric
i stand corrected. 100th.

11-24-2018, 06:53 AM   #5
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so is it safe to assume that because the light meter isn't working, my shutter speed wouldn't either? (considering how they are the only two components that need batteries to operate) also, what does the "100x" function do/what can i potentially shoot that with?
11-24-2018, 07:05 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by tyjj Quote
so is it safe to assume that because the light meter isn't working, my shutter speed wouldn't either? (considering how they are the only two components that need batteries to operate) also, what does the "100x" function do/what can i potentially shoot that with?
you can use it like a shutter priority camera if you wanted to. not ideal for street photography if you have a lot of movement within the frame, but it might work for you in situations with plenty of light and not much movement...?

keep shopping for that dependable k-1000.
11-24-2018, 07:25 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by punkrachmaninov Quote
keep shopping for that dependable k-1000.
KX or KM...
11-24-2018, 09:15 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by tyjj Quote
so is it safe to assume that because the light meter isn't working, my shutter speed wouldn't either? (considering how they are the only two components that need batteries to operate) also, what does the "100x" function do/what can i potentially shoot that with?
Thatís probably the case.

You can do a lot with 1/100s and slow film. If you figure thatís how a ton of old box cameras worked.

But then youíre giving up a lot of whatís cool about SLRs...

-Eric

11-24-2018, 09:18 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by tyjj Quote
so is it safe to assume that because the light meter isn't working, my shutter speed wouldn't either?
You have two mechanical shutter speeds, the X-sync (1/100s) and B. The meter and the exposure automation (the rest of the shutter speeds) are fully battery dependent. Two questions before I suggest looking for another camera; are the batteries inserted properly ("+" end down) and are the batteries known to be good?

Free download of the MV1 manual...

Pentax Manuals | Manual Focus

Moving forward, conventional wisdom is that it is best to learn photography with a camera that allows for manual exposure. A built-in light meter is handy too. There is an abundance of K-mount cameras that provide either fully manual exposure or auto exposure with manual option. Presence of a shutter speed dial is usually a good indication that the camera allows manual operation.


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 11-24-2018 at 09:34 AM.
11-24-2018, 09:28 AM   #10
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Have you loaded film? I don't know your model at all but I was a little thrown with my SuperProgram when I first got it because it seemed the meter wasn't working. Instead it was designed to take the first several shots at a fixed shutter speed of 1/1000s. It wasn't until I took the shot and advanced the film several times before the meter turned on and started setting an appropriate shutter speed. I have no idea if the MV1 works similarly, but I thought I'd throw that our there, since they're both auto exposure type cameras from a similar era.
11-24-2018, 11:17 PM   #11
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You don't need to load film. The counter will move even if there is no film in the camera. Also, as stevebrot mentioned, plus is down. The big side is plus and the small side is minus. Check to see if the battery cap is clean. If there is something on it, try soaking it in vinegar.
11-25-2018, 01:12 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
You have two mechanical shutter speeds, the X-sync (1/100s) and B. The meter and the exposure automation (the rest of the shutter speeds) are fully battery dependent. Two questions before I suggest looking for another camera; are the batteries inserted properly ("+" end down) and are the batteries known to be good?

Free download of the MV1 manual...

Pentax Manuals | Manual Focus

Moving forward, conventional wisdom is that it is best to learn photography with a camera that allows for manual exposure. A built-in light meter is handy too. There is an abundance of K-mount cameras that provide either fully manual exposure or auto exposure with manual option. Presence of a shutter speed dial is usually a good indication that the camera allows manual operation.


Steve
yea i've tried a ton of LR44 batteries and nothing seems to be working.
11-25-2018, 02:05 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxus Quote
You don't need to load film. The counter will move even if there is no film in the camera. Also, as stevebrot mentioned, plus is down. The big side is plus and the small side is minus. Check to see if the battery cap is clean. If there is something on it, try soaking it in vinegar.
The battery contacts need to be clean plated metal try rubbing with zippo fluid first...
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