[Bob 256]

Excellent SLR camera. I had one which superseded my Practica screw mount camera of old, and used it to take hundreds of photos. It still works fine, but I traded up to the K-1 as of late since I see some handwriting on the wall for film and grew tired of scanning film to get digital results. It compares favorably to the K-1 for features (not digital ones, of course), and works with most any K mount lens other than newer ones for which it doesn't have the requisite electronics. Give it a good lens, and it will do wonders. Great exposure system, and instant switching to shutter or aperture priority via front and back dials (just like the K-1). I'm sure you'll enjoy it greatly.

[Pentax Syntax]

Good to know about the Sigma lenses. The ones I have work great on my K110D and K10D, so I'm not really expecting a problem. I wish I could remember exactly which Pentaz af film slr was connected to a warning to stick with Pentax lenses.

Do you have some PZ-1P pictures (maybe taken with one of those Sigmas) to post? As long as we are talking about the camera, there is not reason not to create more interest in it among people who don't know it.

Let’s see what prints I have to scan or photograph. I am a bit of an oddball since I only print from film but rarely scan to digital format. The whole workflow is different and the result is often very satisfying with film.

[Jonathan Mac]

I have an AF Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8-4 which will not work on my SFXn.

I think it really depends on exactly which lens is being used.

[goatsNdonkey]

I have an AF Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8-4 which will not work on my SFXn.

I think it really depends on exactly which lens is being used.

Does the lens work manually, meaning that only its auto focus doesn't work with the SFXn, or does it not work at all?

[goatsNdonkey]

Wowee!

The camera, which I wasn't expecting until tomorrow, came in today's mail, and the new battery, which I wasn't expecting until next week, also arrived today!

First, I tried out the F 35-70mm lens, which came on the PZ-1P, on my K-R dslr, and it seemed to work absolutely fine. Then I remounted that lens back on the PZ-1P, installed the battery, and put in a new roll of film and closed the film door. When I turned the camera ON, the film loaded and showed it was ready to take the first exposure.

Everything seems to be working fine, except that, when I'm ready to take a picture, sometimes is is very hard to push the shutter button down. Once when I pressed it hard enough to fire it fired two shots. Sometimes it seems easier to press the shutter than other times, but I don't know why. Does anyone else know what the issue could be. I don't mind it requiring firmer shutter pressure than other cameras, but if I have to press the button down so hard that the camera really shakes when if finally goes off, I think that is going to cause problems with pictures.

Something I don't think it is--
I am having the problem when the focus confirm light is on, so I don't think the problem is caused by the camera thinking that focus hasn't been achieved yet.

Something it might be related to--
For most of the pictures, so far, I had not looked at what Drive Mode was set to [When I turned the camera on, in displayed the Hyper Program abbreviation, and I assumed everything else would have been reasonable default settings], I didn't notice a symbol related to that on the top display. Anyway, a little while ago I scrolled through the Drive Mode selections and left it set on Single-Frame. Maybe it was set on that already, but I don't remember seeing that symbol earlier, or any symbol in that location.

In addition to the F 35-70, I've tested the camera with my F 35-105 (which has flaky AF and I normally use MF). Next, I'll try it FA f1.4 50mm and my Promaster 28-80 (which says its a Pentax lens in EXIF data). Then I am really hoping it will also work with my Sigma 24-50mm and my Sigma 70-300.

- - -

I skipped ahead to the two Sigmas, after the FA 50mm. I'll work the Promaster in at the end of the roll of film. Unless something unwanted is happening in how the exposures are being taken, that I won't know about until the film is developed, the PZ-1P is having no problem with either the 24-50 or the 70-300 Sigmas.

The shutter button might be working better more of the time now, but it still doesn't reliably go off every time I think it should. Sometimes it seems to work easier if I press it at a slight angle, instead of straight in, but then when I get ready to take the next picture, I can't remember what dad-burned angle that was. Or if I squeeze it down very, very slow-w-w-w-wly, it might fire without much camera shake from my muscle tension the way it might if I'm trying to press as hard as I can.

If it's getting to work a bit better, is it learning my ways, or am I learning its ways? Again, has anybody else seen this kind of behavior out of another Pentax AF film slr's shutter button before?????????????

I've used a lot of cameras over the years. The idea that I have to think about how to press a shutter button at this point, and not be good at doing it most of the time, is a bit unsettling.



.

[pschlute]

Everything seems to be working fine, except that, when I'm ready to take a picture, sometimes is is very hard to push the shutter button down. Once when I pressed it hard enough to fire it fired two shots. Sometimes it seems easier to press the shutter than other times, but I don't know why. Does anyone else know what the issue could be. I don't mind it requiring firmer shutter pressure than other cameras, but if I have to press the button down so hard that the camera really shakes when if finally goes off, I think that is going to cause problems with pictures

To ensure it is not related to the AF confirmation change the AF switch to either Manual or Servo. In both these settings the shutter should fire irrespective of whether you have "focus lock" or not. The Z1 range of cameras do have a firmer press required of the shutter button than modern DSLRs but you should not be having to force it. Try and run a piece of paper round the gap. It may be just a bit of dirt stuck in there.

If you dont have a manual you can download a Z1 manual from here Pentax Manuals , password is Pentax. Not a PZ1P but most functions should be similar.

[johnha]

Yep, the AF mode switch is a likely reason. The Z-1 only has a central AF sensor and compared to modern AF is slower and less responsive. It will shoot at 3fps so if you have the shutter release pressed fully down when it focuses two or more shots are likely.

The Z-1p has a panoramic switch under the film door, this simply masks the top and bottom of the frame. On an old camera you run the risk of the blinds not opening. I'd use black electrical tape to cover the switch in the normal position.

---------- Post added 05-18-19 at 10:19 AM ----------

You should look at the Pentax Functions and set them accordingly. Some of those only relate to the PowerZoom lenses but it's best to set them so know what to expect.

[goatsNdonkey]

To ensure it is not related to the AF confirmation change the AF switch to either Manual or Servo. In both these settings the shutter should fire irrespective of whether you have "focus lock" or not. The Z1 range of cameras do have a firmer press required of the shutter button than modern DSLRs but you should not be having to force it. Try and run a piece of paper round the gap. It may be just a bit of dirt stuck in there.

If you dont have a manual you can download a Z1 manual from here Pentax Manuals , password is Pentax. Not a PZ1P but most functions should be similar.

Thanks for the suggestion to try switching the AF switch to see if it makes any difference.

While I got very little dirt off of the camera exterior, using a cotton ball moistened with alcohol, I could see how some grunge might work in around that very narrow gap around the shutter button. That it seems to be working easier (some of the time) the more I use it, suggests that some kind of sticky grime might be involved. I hadn't thought of trying to run some paper around that gap. Great idea!

I have the .pdf manual for the Pz-1P.

- - - -

Update: I've run paper around the gap around the shutter button, and it did bring out a few traces of dirt. Using three layers of the kind of paper I tried, I found that the clearance around the button was tightest at the top of the button. If some sticky grime was interfering with the button operation, or if the button just needed some limbering up after sitting unused for I don't know how long, perhaps this will make a difference. I'll be going out a little later this morning to try it out again.

Update 2: The button seems to be working better, with maybe a bit more pressure required than with other cameras, but not a lot...unless the camera hasn't actually achieved focus, which happened a couple of times when the flowers I was trying to shoot a little while ago kept blowing in and out of focus with the pre-storm gusts we were having. Also, on a cloud shot, I had to point at a more contrasty part of the clouds to get focus, before reframing. But other than those times, I wasn't fighting to get the shutter to fire, as I was having to do some of the time yesterday. So, it seems that some combination of grime and disuse must have been at fault, and the "flossing" with paper around the button must have largely reduced those effects. I didn't yet try to see if the button works differently with focus in manual mode, as johnha suggested, but it seems to be working mostly as intended now.

It was nice to see the camera seeming to work just fine with my Sigma 70-300mm, in both its normal and "macro" modes!


.

[goatsNdonkey]

Yep, the AF mode switch is a likely reason. The Z-1 only has a central AF sensor and compared to modern AF is slower and less responsive. It will shoot at 3fps so if you have the shutter release pressed fully down when it focuses two or more shots are likely.

The Z-1p has a panoramic switch under the film door, this simply masks the top and bottom of the frame. On an old camera you run the risk of the blinds not opening. I'd use black electrical tape to cover the switch in the normal position.

---------- Post added 05-18-19 at 10:19 AM ----------

You should look at the Pentax Functions and set them accordingly. Some of those only relate to the PowerZoom lenses but it's best to set them so know what to expect.

Maybe because I am a rather pokey photographer, I don't notice the PZ-1P's slower AF response very much -- ha, ha!


While there are some signs of wear and use on the camera exterior, I am happy to say that the film door seems very solid. No wobble in the hinges. No flex. It opens and closes and latches as I would expect to find in a brand new camera's film door. And...the little Panorama Mode switch appears firmly switched in the normal non-panorama position, as if it might have never been used. I'll keep an eye on it, and, if I see any sign of it moving around, I will tape it. But I don't think I'll need to do that.

I'll delve into those Pentax Functions, with one eye in the camera manual, to see if there is something I might need to change. Thanks for the tip!


UPDATE: I read the Pentax Functions section of the manual. Right now, I don't see any advantage for me in using anything other than the "0" (Zero) options for each function. I have no Power Zoom lenses, those functions are irrelevant for me. Scrolling through each function, I could see that each one is set to the Zero setting now, so I didn't have to go through the procedure for changing the settings. I didn't notice anything in the Pentax Functions that would have any obvious connection to the shutter button issue.


.

[goatsNdonkey]

Sidelight:

Reminding that I bought this PZ-1P listed as "untested" on the auction site, including the SMC Pentax-F f/3.5-4.5 35-70mm (with "macro") lens attached. Both might have turned out to be in horrible, non-working condition, but for $11.50 + postage I thought it was worth the risk.

Before I put the battery in the PZ-1P film body, I popped the 35-70 onto my K-R dslr and shot several shots from my easy chair just to see if worked. It did, putting me at ease that I didn't get skunked on my bargain purchase, even if the camera was broken or had issues. (interestingly I had followed several copies of the F 35-70 back in Jan or Feb, but they kept getting bid up higher than I wanted to go at the time, and this one, attached to a camera, was far, far cheaper)

Anyway, here is one of those first lens tests, taken with the K-R's onboard flash. This version has slight adjusting, cropping, and BW coversion:


A pillowhound in his lair.

I've been too busy trying to finish the first test roll of film in the PZ-1P to take more digital shots with the lens, but soon I'll try more.

[pschlute]

but for $11.50 + postage I thought it was worth the risk.

Too right. And judging from the pooch shot (lovely hound) the lens is worth all that and more.

Look forward to seeing the film shots.

[goatsNdonkey]

Too right. And judging from the pooch shot (lovely hound) the lens is worth all that and more.

Look forward to seeing the film shots.

I finished the roll of 36 exposures this morning, and plan to send it off for processing and scans tomorrow. I tried a total of 7 different lenses with the PZ-1P, not all in the best conditions for them. I really should have had faster film loaded for testing the 70-300mm Sigma. I'll probably have online access to the scans in a week to ten days.

[h.butz]

Somewhere I read a strong warning not to use 3rd party af lenses with some Pentax af slr, and, while it may not have been about the PZ-1P, it makes me wonder whether that camera ever has any 3rd party af lens compatibility issues.

I own 4 or 5 PZ-1p's (lost count for the moment). Usually third-party lens warnings surround fisheye lenses with the aperture arm banging into the mirror.

You may have read about the dreaded "Ricoh Pin" in which some older Ricoh lenses will jam on quite nicely to a Pentax AF body.

Ricoh pin - what is it and why the need to remove? - PentaxForums.com

[goatsNdonkey]

I know about the Ricoh pin. I have(or had) a lens with a rounded Ricoh pin that never caused a problem getting caught on af cameras, but with the others, I have either removed the pin or nipped off enough of it that solved the issue.

My original question just had to do with non-Pentax AF lenses. If there is such a thing as an AF fisheye lens, I can't afford it -- ha, ha!

[steamloco76]

I used three PZ-1p bodies professionally in the late1990’s-2004, primarily with Tokina AT-X AF lenses, plus a Pentax 24-50mm SMC-F AF. All worked very well. Later on a Sigma hyper wide angle zoom was added and it also had no AF or other issues.

I did experience all of the PZ-1p failures you mentioned. Thank goodness I had Pentax Extended warranties to cover the shutter and mirror drive failures. The shutter failed a second time in my newest, least used body while still under warranty.
The body which had the mirror drive failure eventually died of that same ailment years later. The first, most used, highest film count body only needed a CLA and bottom cover replacement. It was still going strong when I let it go on eBay in 2008.