Any tips for refinishing a K1000?

Ropuchy · 05-28-2019, 03:15 PM

I have a K1000 SE, but the leatherette is peeling a bit, the enamel on the trim is mostly chipped away, and the light seals are more light than seals.

Aki-Asahi has ready made kits for both the leatherette and light seals. Should I get them from there, or are there better options?

I'm not too sure what to do for the enamel. I'd think painting something on by hand would work best, but I'm unsure what sort of paint to use.

**BigMackCam** · 05-28-2019, 04:15 PM - **1 Like**

I'd suggest using the best quality light seals you can obtain, and simply re-glue the original leatherette using a light rubber cement such as Elmer's. As for the worn enamel, there's years of experience, enjoyment and history in that patina. I would learn to love it just as it is

stevebrot · 05-28-2019, 05:17 PM - **4 Likes**

Originally posted by Ropuchy

Aki-Asahi has ready made kits for both the leatherette and light seals.

I am a huge fan of Aki-Asahi's camera coverings. Their materials are first rate and the kit includes a practice set (ugly skin) and excellent instructions. Below is my Spotmatic dressed in their Red Lizard Embossed cowhide. I believe it took me about 35 minutes to apply.

This material may be discontinued, but if you like it, there is no harm done in asking.

As for light seals, I remain a firm fan of Jon Goodman and his excellent and very affordable kits. He used to charge $10 USD, postage included, but even if he were charging $20 USD, they would still be the best value available.

Steve

Ropuchy · 05-28-2019, 07:07 PM

Originally posted by BigMackCam

I'd suggest using the best quality light seals you can obtain, and simply re-glue the original leatherette using a light rubber cement such as Elmer's. As for the worn enamel, there's years of experience, enjoyment and history in that patina. I would learn to love it just as it is

Do you have any suggestions for light seals?
The leatherette either wasn't cut correctly or has shrunk over time, there are gaps along the edges where it should be. I'd still be keeping the old leatherette if I replaced it.
I've noticed a small amount of corrosion on the now-exposed iron/steel where the trim used to cover. I'm wanting to repaint it to inhibit any further corrosion. And While I can appreciate some patina, the trim paint is just falling off and there will be little left if I continue to use the camera.

Thank you for the input!

---------- Post added 05-28-19 at 07:11 PM ----------

Originally posted by stevebrot

I am a huge fan of Aki-Asahi's camera coverings. Their materials are first rate and the kit includes a practice set (ugly skin) and excellent instructions. Below is my Spotmatic dressed in their Red Lizard Embossed cowhide. I believe it took me about 35 minutes to apply.

This material may be discontinued, but if you like it, there is no harm done in asking.

As for light seals, I remain a firm fan of Jon Goodman and his excellent and very affordable kits. He used to charge $10 USD, postage included, but even if he were charging $20 USD, they would still be the best value available.

Steve

That Spotmatic turned out very well! I'd guess the K1000 would take even less time as it's even simpler.
I was thinking of getting the Black Crinkled Emboss because it isn't too flashy and would probably go well with the camera. Nice to hear that they give you a practice set!

Do you have a link to Jon Goodman's light seals?

Thank you!

peter82 · 05-28-2019, 07:17 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Ropuchy

Do you have a link to Jon Goodman's light seals?

He doesn't have a website, just email him at jgood21967@aol.com.

Ropuchy · 05-28-2019, 07:26 PM

Originally posted by peter82

He doesn't have a website, just email him at jgood21967@aol.com.

Ah ok, thanks!

What is it that make his seals better than other offerings?

stevebrot · 05-28-2019, 08:10 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Ropuchy

What is it that make his seals better than other offerings?

That is a difficult question to answer if there is no previous experience. The short answer is that the kits are fully custom, have all the pieces using proper materials and thicknesses, and have detailed instructions to allow as easy a time possible even for complete noobs.

Steve

Ropuchy · 05-28-2019, 08:21 PM

Originally posted by stevebrot

That is a difficult question to answer if there is no previous experience. The short answer is that the kits are fully custom, have all the pieces using proper materials and thicknesses, and have detailed instructions to allow as easy a time possible even for complete noobs.

Steve

Arlight.
Do you know if the kit comes with multiple sets of foam in-case you mess something up, or would it be pretty hard to?

**blumoon722** · 05-29-2019, 04:26 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by stevebrot

What is it that make his seals better than other offerings?

His door seals do not have the adhesive back which make them much easier to use. Plus they come with great instructions.
Aki-Asahi's kits do come 3 sets on a sheet and are nicely done, but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves.

peter82 · 05-29-2019, 06:38 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Ropuchy

Arlight.
Do you know if the kit comes with multiple sets of foam in-case you mess something up, or would it be pretty hard to?

No, other than the fact there is a little more length to the door seals than what you need. The upper door seal will require a cut to leave a gap for the film counter reset.

stevebrot · 05-29-2019, 07:53 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by blumoon722

but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves.

Yep...They tend to roll over sideways and get stuck that way. Jon's strips just press into the grooves and stay there.

Steve

**pres589** · 05-29-2019, 08:05 AM - **1 Like**

I got one of Jon's kits for a Ricoh and didn't really like what I got. Mirror damper pad was really thin and small, door seals were very narrow, etc. I ended up getting a 3mm and 1.5mm thick pair of sheets of camera door seal foam off of Amazon for about $20 total. Enough material to do dozens of cameras and I cut it with a rotary cutter. If you cannot borrow a rotary cutter (common in quilt making and other fabric cutting tasks) and guide to cut along it might not make as much sense to go that way. For what I'm doing, I'm up to four cameras done now, and am happy with the results.

If there's corrosion of the metal, you'll have to remove it through sanding or chemical rust removal, or else it just comes back. If you don't want to do that (and I wouldn't blame you if you don't) then I wouldn't bother trying to hide the corrosion with paint.

I really should try to redo the leather on my k-mount film cameras. I don't think Aki-Asahi makes a pre-cut kit for my Ricoh XR7 and I know they don't for my Chinon. Might be fun to try some different colors for them besides black.

Ropuchy · 05-29-2019, 06:40 PM

Originally posted by blumoon722

His door seals do not have the adhesive back which make them much easier to use. Plus they come with great instructions.
Aki-Asahi's kits do come 3 sets on a sheet and are nicely done, but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves.

The instructions for the Aki-Asahi seals suggest using alcohol to delay the adhesive while putting in the seals.

---------- Post added 05-29-19 at 06:41 PM ----------

Originally posted by peter82

No, other than the fact there is a little more length to the door seals than what you need. The upper door seal will require a cut to leave a gap for the film counter reset.

Ah, right. Forgot about the film counter. Thanks for the reminder!

---------- Post added 05-29-19 at 06:48 PM ----------

Originally posted by pres589

I got one of Jon's kits for a Ricoh and didn't really like what I got. Mirror damper pad was really thin and small, door seals were very narrow, etc. I ended up getting a 3mm and 1.5mm thick pair of sheets of camera door seal foam off of Amazon for about $20 total. Enough material to do dozens of cameras and I cut it with a rotary cutter. If you cannot borrow a rotary cutter (common in quilt making and other fabric cutting tasks) and guide to cut along it might not make as much sense to go that way. For what I'm doing, I'm up to four cameras done now, and am happy with the results.

If there's corrosion of the metal, you'll have to remove it through sanding or chemical rust removal, or else it just comes back. If you don't want to do that (and I wouldn't blame you if you don't) then I wouldn't bother trying to hide the corrosion with paint.

I really should try to redo the leather on my k-mount film cameras. I don't think Aki-Asahi makes a pre-cut kit for my Ricoh XR7 and I know they don't for my Chinon. Might be fun to try some different colors for them besides black.

Glad your custom seals have been working out well!

For the corrosion, I wasn't planning on hiding it with paint; it's very mild and won't be an issue to clean up. I'd be painting after cleaning it.

For your XR7 and Chinon, maybe you could buy a kit from Aki-Asahi and retrofit it to them?

nickthetasmaniac · 05-29-2019, 08:01 PM - **1 Like**

I've used skins from Camera Leather to re-cover both my Autocord and M2 and found them very good quality. They do a kit for the K1000.

Other's have reported some communication issues with Camera Leather but personally I've had no problems.

This was my M2 getting new clothes ('Levant Black' leather)

Ropuchy · 05-30-2019, 08:37 AM

Originally posted by nickthetasmaniac

I've used skins from Camera Leather to re-cover both my Autocord and M2 and found them very good quality. They do a kit for the K1000.

Other's have reported some communication issues with Camera Leather but personally I've had no problems.

This was my M2 getting new clothes ('Levant Black' leather)

Thanks for the suggestion. Your M2 looks pretty sharp!

05-28-2019, 03:15 PM	#1
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207	Any tips for refinishing a K1000? I have a K1000 SE, but the leatherette is peeling a bit, the enamel on the trim is mostly chipped away, and the light seals are more light than seals. Aki-Asahi has ready made kits for both the leatherette and light seals. Should I get them from there, or are there better options? I'm not too sure what to do for the enamel. I'd think painting something on by hand would work best, but I'm unsure what sort of paint to use.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Pentax K1000 vs. K1000 SE	JordanBraz	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	11	05-07-2018 02:27 PM
You get a k1000, you get a k1000!	disconnekt	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	26	04-15-2018 01:17 PM
any tips on using the Pentax K1000	wetigers	Photographic Technique	5	05-17-2014 10:17 PM
Camera & Lens cosmetic refinishing	vanchaz2002	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	2	12-22-2008 03:10 PM

05-28-2019, 04:15 PM - 1 Like	#2
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,682	I'd suggest using the best quality light seals you can obtain, and simply re-glue the original leatherette using a light rubber cement such as Elmer's. As for the worn enamel, there's years of experience, enjoyment and history in that patina. I would learn to love it just as it is

05-28-2019, 05:17 PM - 4 Likes	#3
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Ropuchy Aki-Asahi has ready made kits for both the leatherette and light seals. I am a huge fan of Aki-Asahi's camera coverings. Their materials are first rate and the kit includes a practice set (ugly skin) and excellent instructions. Below is my Spotmatic dressed in their Red Lizard Embossed cowhide. I believe it took me about 35 minutes to apply. This material may be discontinued, but if you like it, there is no harm done in asking. As for light seals, I remain a firm fan of Jon Goodman and his excellent and very affordable kits. He used to charge $10 USD, postage included, but even if he were charging $20 USD, they would still be the best value available. Steve

05-28-2019, 07:07 PM	#4
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207 Original Poster	Originally posted by BigMackCam I'd suggest using the best quality light seals you can obtain, and simply re-glue the original leatherette using a light rubber cement such as Elmer's. As for the worn enamel, there's years of experience, enjoyment and history in that patina. I would learn to love it just as it is Do you have any suggestions for light seals? The leatherette either wasn't cut correctly or has shrunk over time, there are gaps along the edges where it should be. I'd still be keeping the old leatherette if I replaced it. I've noticed a small amount of corrosion on the now-exposed iron/steel where the trim used to cover. I'm wanting to repaint it to inhibit any further corrosion. And While I can appreciate some patina, the trim paint is just falling off and there will be little left if I continue to use the camera. Thank you for the input! ---------- Post added 05-28-19 at 07:11 PM ---------- Originally posted by stevebrot I am a huge fan of Aki-Asahi's camera coverings. Their materials are first rate and the kit includes a practice set (ugly skin) and excellent instructions. Below is my Spotmatic dressed in their Red Lizard Embossed cowhide. I believe it took me about 35 minutes to apply. This material may be discontinued, but if you like it, there is no harm done in asking. As for light seals, I remain a firm fan of Jon Goodman and his excellent and very affordable kits. He used to charge $10 USD, postage included, but even if he were charging $20 USD, they would still be the best value available. Steve That Spotmatic turned out very well! I'd guess the K1000 would take even less time as it's even simpler. I was thinking of getting the Black Crinkled Emboss because it isn't too flashy and would probably go well with the camera. Nice to hear that they give you a practice set! Do you have a link to Jon Goodman's light seals? Thank you!

05-28-2019, 07:17 PM - 1 Like	#5
peter82 New Member Join Date: Oct 2018 Posts: 8	Originally posted by Ropuchy Do you have a link to Jon Goodman's light seals? He doesn't have a website, just email him at jgood21967@aol.com.

05-28-2019, 07:26 PM	#6
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207 Original Poster	Originally posted by peter82 He doesn't have a website, just email him at jgood21967@aol.com. Ah ok, thanks! What is it that make his seals better than other offerings?

05-28-2019, 08:10 PM - 1 Like	#7
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Ropuchy What is it that make his seals better than other offerings? That is a difficult question to answer if there is no previous experience. The short answer is that the kits are fully custom, have all the pieces using proper materials and thicknesses, and have detailed instructions to allow as easy a time possible even for complete noobs. Steve

05-28-2019, 08:21 PM	#8
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207 Original Poster	Originally posted by stevebrot That is a difficult question to answer if there is no previous experience. The short answer is that the kits are fully custom, have all the pieces using proper materials and thicknesses, and have detailed instructions to allow as easy a time possible even for complete noobs. Steve Arlight. Do you know if the kit comes with multiple sets of foam in-case you mess something up, or would it be pretty hard to?

05-29-2019, 04:26 AM - 1 Like	#9
blumoon722 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 424	Originally posted by stevebrot What is it that make his seals better than other offerings? His door seals do not have the adhesive back which make them much easier to use. Plus they come with great instructions. Aki-Asahi's kits do come 3 sets on a sheet and are nicely done, but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves.

05-29-2019, 06:38 AM - 1 Like	#10
peter82 New Member Join Date: Oct 2018 Posts: 8	Originally posted by Ropuchy Arlight. Do you know if the kit comes with multiple sets of foam in-case you mess something up, or would it be pretty hard to? No, other than the fact there is a little more length to the door seals than what you need. The upper door seal will require a cut to leave a gap for the film counter reset.

05-29-2019, 07:53 AM - 1 Like	#11
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by blumoon722 but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves. Yep...They tend to roll over sideways and get stuck that way. Jon's strips just press into the grooves and stay there. Steve

05-29-2019, 08:05 AM - 1 Like	#12
pres589 Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Wichita, KS Photos: Albums Posts: 4,533	I got one of Jon's kits for a Ricoh and didn't really like what I got. Mirror damper pad was really thin and small, door seals were very narrow, etc. I ended up getting a 3mm and 1.5mm thick pair of sheets of camera door seal foam off of Amazon for about $20 total. Enough material to do dozens of cameras and I cut it with a rotary cutter. If you cannot borrow a rotary cutter (common in quilt making and other fabric cutting tasks) and guide to cut along it might not make as much sense to go that way. For what I'm doing, I'm up to four cameras done now, and am happy with the results. If there's corrosion of the metal, you'll have to remove it through sanding or chemical rust removal, or else it just comes back. If you don't want to do that (and I wouldn't blame you if you don't) then I wouldn't bother trying to hide the corrosion with paint. I really should try to redo the leather on my k-mount film cameras. I don't think Aki-Asahi makes a pre-cut kit for my Ricoh XR7 and I know they don't for my Chinon. Might be fun to try some different colors for them besides black.

05-29-2019, 06:40 PM	#13
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207 Original Poster	Originally posted by blumoon722 His door seals do not have the adhesive back which make them much easier to use. Plus they come with great instructions. Aki-Asahi's kits do come 3 sets on a sheet and are nicely done, but the door seal have the sticky back and can be a pain to get in the grooves. The instructions for the Aki-Asahi seals suggest using alcohol to delay the adhesive while putting in the seals. ---------- Post added 05-29-19 at 06:41 PM ---------- Originally posted by peter82 No, other than the fact there is a little more length to the door seals than what you need. The upper door seal will require a cut to leave a gap for the film counter reset. Ah, right. Forgot about the film counter. Thanks for the reminder! ---------- Post added 05-29-19 at 06:48 PM ---------- Originally posted by pres589 I got one of Jon's kits for a Ricoh and didn't really like what I got. Mirror damper pad was really thin and small, door seals were very narrow, etc. I ended up getting a 3mm and 1.5mm thick pair of sheets of camera door seal foam off of Amazon for about $20 total. Enough material to do dozens of cameras and I cut it with a rotary cutter. If you cannot borrow a rotary cutter (common in quilt making and other fabric cutting tasks) and guide to cut along it might not make as much sense to go that way. For what I'm doing, I'm up to four cameras done now, and am happy with the results. If there's corrosion of the metal, you'll have to remove it through sanding or chemical rust removal, or else it just comes back. If you don't want to do that (and I wouldn't blame you if you don't) then I wouldn't bother trying to hide the corrosion with paint. I really should try to redo the leather on my k-mount film cameras. I don't think Aki-Asahi makes a pre-cut kit for my Ricoh XR7 and I know they don't for my Chinon. Might be fun to try some different colors for them besides black. Glad your custom seals have been working out well! For the corrosion, I wasn't planning on hiding it with paint; it's very mild and won't be an issue to clean up. I'd be painting after cleaning it. For your XR7 and Chinon, maybe you could buy a kit from Aki-Asahi and retrofit it to them?

05-29-2019, 08:01 PM - 1 Like	#14
nickthetasmaniac Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 2,361	I've used skins from Camera Leather to re-cover both my Autocord and M2 and found them very good quality. They do a kit for the K1000. Other's have reported some communication issues with Camera Leather but personally I've had no problems. This was my M2 getting new clothes ('Levant Black' leather)

05-30-2019, 08:37 AM	#15
Ropuchy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2018 Photos: Albums Posts: 207 Original Poster	Originally posted by nickthetasmaniac I've used skins from Camera Leather to re-cover both my Autocord and M2 and found them very good quality. They do a kit for the K1000. Other's have reported some communication issues with Camera Leather but personally I've had no problems. This was my M2 getting new clothes ('Levant Black' leather) Thanks for the suggestion. Your M2 looks pretty sharp!