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10-13-2008, 02:28 AM   #46
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I'd guess it's that a needle is more precise than an LED--you can see exactly how much your exposure is off, instead of a range of values of how far off.

I prefer needles too, mostly from an aesthetic point of view(!). But LEDs work just fine too--they tell you what your exposure needs to be, right?

10-13-2008, 03:57 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
The K1000 is missing two things I miss - depth of field preview and mirror lockup - and I miss depth of field preview much more than the lockup. KX for me.
So what do you need MLU for? I'm curious as I have the KX and now an Electro-X both of which have MLU.

I've talked about my bias against the K1000 before, and that for some strange reason, I love the very same camera in its screw mount guise as the SP1000.

I think it has to do with marketing. The K1000 life extended well into my young adulthood and interest in things photographic, while the SP1000 had faded before I became a photo gear head. So my feelings around the K1000 are of a low cost bare bones camera without features, the bottom model, the starter school model, you get the drift. Real photographers of course used the MX or preferably the LX, the ME Super etc... or better yet, the OM1 and 2, if you had enough cool not to trammel into Nikon.

Or, put in a contemporary setting: who would recommend the new KM/2000 as the best camera body? (Actually, it is the best one for several reasons)
10-13-2008, 07:26 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
Or, put in a contemporary setting: who would recommend the new KM/2000 as the best camera body? (Actually, it is the best one for several reasons)
The best camera body is the one that you'll actually use whichever that my be. And at different times in my career I've had a couple that were the best for me at that time. I've got a few bodies that were "the best". They are the best paperweights I've never had because I hate them and don't use them.
10-13-2008, 09:32 AM   #49
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I'm still here, reading everyone has been saying. A lot has been said about the size of the KX vs MX (among others). How much of a difference are we talking here? Anyone with a side by side picture?

After using the K10D for a year, I wouldn't mind having a SMALL film body.

10-13-2008, 09:58 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by solisti Quote
How does the MX LEDs work worse than the needle in the KX? I can agree that the needle is more visual in good light, but both cameras are totally mechanical and only need power for the light meter...
It does not work worse, but the shutter speed LEDs don't work without a battery - I was attempting to point out that the KX maintains all visual aids in the view finder with a dead or missing battery other than the meter needle.
10-13-2008, 01:08 PM   #51
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QuoteOriginally posted by paolojackson Quote
I'm still here, reading everyone has been saying. A lot has been said about the size of the KX vs MX (among others). How much of a difference are we talking here? Anyone with a side by side picture?

After using the K10D for a year, I wouldn't mind having a SMALL film body.
I can do KX vs Program Plus vs Spotmatic, if that would help. Or alternately, do you have any experience with an OM?

In general, size/weight is what you're used to. I find I'm less sensitive now to film camera size after lugging a k100d around a bit. More important I find: is there a good comfortable grip that feels like I've got a good hold on things? And just how bright and spacious is that view finder? How much a pain is it to find batteries for it?

I'd probably go for the MX if 'choosing', but I let the Used Camera Gods bring me what they will... which turned out to be a KX. Some day They will show me the MX as well, I'm sure

And the Program Plus I have: small, very comfortable, great vf, great to carry around!
10-13-2008, 01:32 PM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
I can do KX vs Program Plus vs Spotmatic, if that would help. Or alternately, do you have any experience with an OM?
Sorry no experience here. I have only held an ME Super, and have no idea how it is in comparison to other bodies. The ME Super seems nice and compact and though not as comfortable as my K10D (unfair comparison), it still doesn't feel UNcomfortable.

If an ME Super is similar in size to a Spotmatic or Program Plus, then the comparison would be great help.
10-13-2008, 02:44 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by paolojackson Quote
If an ME Super is similar in size to a Spotmatic or Program Plus, then the comparison would be great help.
ME Super and Program Plus are pretty similar, Spotmatic is a little bit bigger and sturdier.

ProgramPLUS 131 x 86.5 x 47.5 [mm]

ME*Super 131.5 x 83 x 49.5 [mm]

10-13-2008, 02:55 PM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
It does not work worse, but the shutter speed LEDs don't work without a battery - I was attempting to point out that the KX maintains all visual aids in the view finder with a dead or missing battery other than the meter needle.
There are no shutter speed leds in my MX, the speeds are indicated with a shutter speed dial in the viewfinder. The leds only act to indicate the right exposure and there are 5 of them (-1EV to +1EV). See the pic copied from the manual below (from butkus.org)

10-13-2008, 03:00 PM   #55
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Figured I could start a new thread, but since the conversation is still moving along, and it does go with my objective of obtaining a film camera...what do you think about this?

QuoteOriginally posted by geauxpez Quote
As Stratman says, the body has less to do with the final product in film cameras than for digital cameras. As is often said, the body is merely a light tight box to hold your film while the lens and shutter do the critical work...
I thought about this and it made perfect sense. Would the film and lens not be more important than the camera body, given that the body functions properly? I'm also guessing the light meter is quite important.

Your thoughts?
10-13-2008, 04:32 PM   #56
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Comparison of features and quality of classic Pentax and Olympus SLRs has a bit of a non-Pentaxian overview of the Pentaxes.
I posted a set of quickie size compare photos
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-film-slr-discussion/39282-kx-esii-...-compares.html
10-13-2008, 08:50 PM   #57
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I shoot both film and digital, and I shoot about 50/50. My digital convert friends think I'm nuts until i show them what I can do with a $2 camera. I don't like my k1000, no DOF and a dark focusing screen compared to my Nikon FM2 kills it for me. The nikon is at least a stop or two brighter than my Spotmatic screen or the k1000. Doesn't matter in daylight shooting, but indoors or low light, I see the difference immediately.
10-15-2008, 08:20 AM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
So what do you need MLU for? I'm curious as I have the KX and now an Electro-X both of which have MLU.
MLU is useful to help reduce camera shake when shooting landscapes on a tripod, or night shots.

The theory is that the mirror movement shakes the camera, and by locking it up, the camera can stabilize and when the shutter is released via a cable, you'll get the best image quality.
10-15-2008, 08:42 AM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by mudman Quote
I shoot both film and digital, and I shoot about 50/50. My digital convert friends think I'm nuts until i show them what I can do with a $2 camera. I don't like my k1000, no DOF and a dark focusing screen compared to my Nikon FM2 kills it for me. The nikon is at least a stop or two brighter than my Spotmatic screen or the k1000. Doesn't matter in daylight shooting, but indoors or low light, I see the difference immediately.
If the view finder brightness in low light is a priority, the LX is the cat's meow.
10-15-2008, 09:08 AM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by solisti Quote
There are no shutter speed leds in my MX, the speeds are indicated with a shutter speed dial in the viewfinder. The leds only act to indicate the right exposure and there are 5 of them (-1EV to +1EV). See the pic copied from the manual below (from butkus.org)
Thanks for the clarification. I was under the mistaken impression that the viewfinder had LEDs indicating the shutter speed set and another indicating how much under/over the exposure was according to the meter. Thanks again.
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