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12-02-2019, 08:11 PM - 1 Like   #31
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If you have time for a technical read on how film sees light.... check this ebook (free from author)
http://ctein.com/PostExposure2ndIllustrated.pdf

CTEIN is one of the authors which helped me a lot in the 80s and 90s

12-03-2019, 04:26 AM - 1 Like   #32
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hmm

life can throw you curves

my adventure into film may be somewhat delayed

the random number selection in the November Grand Prize Raffle selected me and I now have a KP on its way

so I have to get use to using the new to me Z-1/PZ-1 and the KP

such problems I have to deal with
12-03-2019, 08:42 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
hmm

life can throw you curves

my adventure into film may be somewhat delayed

the random number selection in the November Grand Prize Raffle selected me and I now have a KP on its way

so I have to get use to using the new to me Z-1/PZ-1 and the KP

such problems I have to deal with
That’s a terrible problem to have

You could sell it on the marketplace and use the proceeds to buy film and processing

-Eric
12-03-2019, 11:48 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by TwoUptons Quote
That’s a terrible problem to have

You could sell it on the marketplace and use the proceeds to buy film and processing

-Eric
If I sell the slr in the marketplace

Why would I need film. :

12-03-2019, 12:30 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
hmm

life can throw you curves

my adventure into film may be somewhat delayed

the random number selection in the November Grand Prize Raffle selected me and I now have a KP on its way

so I have to get use to using the new to me Z-1/PZ-1 and the KP

such problems I have to deal with
Now I'm just jealous and angry. No more help for you!
(Seriously - congrats)
12-03-2019, 12:48 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
If I sell the slr in the marketplace

Why would I need film. :
No... sell the KP

Though it was meant in jest...

-Eric
12-03-2019, 12:55 PM   #37
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Random chance

So they tell me

Not like I had the winning photo

But I'll take it any way

12-03-2019, 02:42 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
hmm

life can throw you curves

my adventure into film may be somewhat delayed

the random number selection in the November Grand Prize Raffle selected me and I now have a KP on its way

so I have to get use to using the new to me Z-1/PZ-1 and the KP

such problems I have to deal with
With the money you'd get selling the KP you can buy one of each K-series or M-series SLRs. Just sayin'.
12-04-2019, 08:46 AM   #39
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I'd get some mailers from mpix.com for the low cost processing + scans by email + they send your negatives to you.
Instead of buying prints, a 'digital photo frame' is far more effective.
For film, you won't have to look much farther than the wal-mart for Fuji 400 (fast film for reduced motion blur).

Scanners don't tolerate any underexposure. (underexposure looks like gravel)
You could bracket, or set the ASA to 320, or review the camera instructions for use of the comp dial.

P.S.
All of my gallery photos are film.
Challenges include: exposure to coddle the scanner, old camera breakdown, motion blur.
Surprises include: If everything went right, dramatically high quality (and the opposite case is possible too).
12-04-2019, 04:21 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by titrisol Quote
I'd recommend you start with color negative film, rememeber that the ISO is FIXED and thus a 400 speed film woul dbe my 1st choice
What he said, I started with B/W 100 and wished I started with 400 or 800, will be fixed on the next roll.

My naive film plan is to develop with CINESTILL DF 96 Monobath Powder (Chemistry) - fotoimpex.com analogue photography a scan it with the KP.

Last edited by danielblues; 12-04-2019 at 04:21 PM. Reason: typo
12-05-2019, 05:51 AM - 1 Like   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Bassat Quote
I've struggled with the logic of that process. I just can't find the logic in shooting 645 or 6x6 and using a sensor less than one-quarter the size of my film to make digital copies. May as well shoot APS-c in the first place. If I am going to bottle-neck my IQ and resolution with an APS-c sensor, wouldn't I be better off to start there? My basic assumption is that a native image from the smaller sensor will be better than the secondary image obtained by copying the original 6x6 or 645 negative.
It’s a process that makes great proofs...

When it’s time for maximum quality, then you switch to a different process... Wet printing, a drum scan, or whatever...

-Eric
12-05-2019, 09:20 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by danielwritesback Quote
Scanners don't tolerate any underexposure. (underexposure looks like gravel)
You could bracket, or set the ASA to 320, or review the camera instructions for use of the comp dial.
I am sure you meant this as a very broad generalization but certainly it depends on what film, how much underexposure and the scanner.
For instance below is Kodak Portra 400 and I shot a few frames thinking I could capture the full range of it's latitude by over and underexposing so many stops.



These are unenhanced - no pre or post scan work, other then cropping and putting them together. In scan, I could have overexposed the darker frames or underexpose the brighter frames to retrieve more color info. And of course I could have also applied addtional post processing to enhance the color info further.
12-05-2019, 10:35 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
I am sure you meant this as a very broad generalization but certainly it depends on what film, how much underexposure and the scanner.
For instance below is Kodak Portra 400 and I shot a few frames thinking I could capture the full range of it's latitude by over and underexposing so many stops.

These are unenhanced - no pre or post scan work, other then cropping and putting them together. In scan, I could have overexposed the darker frames or underexpose the brighter frames to retrieve more color info. And of course I could have also applied addtional post processing to enhance the color info further.
I did actually mean that, because I aim for 3 meters print size, even if I use that capacity less often than 2/3rds meter print size. Mainly, I just want to get the metering right more often. Its a goal.
But, your comment is really good!
The Kodak Portra 400/800 (same film) is non-blue and has broader latitude.
Instead of 3 meters, it can do 4 meter sized prints if the exposure coddles the scanner.
The double price is not a real thing, because it is a bit more likely for a successful image.
I'm so grateful that you've mentioned it.

However, the need of good exposure is a real thing. Portra just does either better or bigger.

I am in need of some wall prints, so thanks again for recommending the right film for that.
12-25-2019, 09:42 AM   #44
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Santa [ and/or his helpers ] gave me

" DigitNow Film, Slides, & Negative To Digital Converter "

amazon.com: DIGITNOW 22MP All-in-1 Film & Slide Scanner, Converts 35mm 135 110 126 and Super 8 Films/Slides/Negatives to Digital JPG Photos, Built-in 128MB Memory, 2.4 LCD Screen: Electronics?tag=pentaxforums-20&

to use with my P-Z1
12-25-2019, 12:11 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by danielwritesback Quote

Scanners don't tolerate any underexposure. (underexposure looks like gravel)
You could bracket, or set the ASA to 320, or review the camera instructions for use of the comp dial.
.
Low quality scanners cannot tolerate under exposure perhaps. But otherwise they can capture a wide range of exposure latitude and give you the look much like it might wet print in terms of grain, IMHO
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