Originally posted by aslyfox I decided to try out film so I got a Pentax Z-1 / PZ-1 on its way
I'm way the hell late to this discussion, @Aslyfox, so forgive me if I'm saying what others have said...
From a gear perspective, you are on the right track. You have a solid camera. Not sure if you've bought your lenses yet, but you could probably make do with a smaller kit. I find 28mm wide, 50mm normal, 85-120 for portraits to be sufficient. A long tele is nice but I find I rarely use it.
If you want to do this the right way, I'd do what students did back in the film days and start with black and white film and consider developing it yourself.
Main reason being that black and white helps you concentrate on the fundamentals of exposure. Understanding exposure and the role you can take in it (vs letting the camera make the decisions) is, IMO, the difference between *taking* pictures and *making* pictures.
Also, B&W eliminates the issues with color balance in scanning -- set your scanner for grayscale and the results are representative of your performance. You'll know right away from the scans if your exposure is right, and you'll need to be able to nail your exposure when/if you move on to color slide film.
Plus, B&W film looks awesome.
Don't go down the rabbit hole of agonizing which film to use, just buy something and stick with it. You cannot go wrong with Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5 (the latter is my go-to). And there is cheaper stuff -- I just tried a roll of Fomapan 100, <$5/roll at Freestyle. I accidentally underdeveloped it and still got great results. It's a bit grainy, but that's OK, you just need something consistent to learn on.
I suggest home developing your B&W because it's cost effective (initial investment of $85-$150 including chemicals, and that'll get you through a *lot* of film; chemical cost ends up around a buck or two a roll) and it also gives you more of a role in the process beyond pressing the shutter button. It's a bit intimidating, but really not too difficult.
Once you're happy with your B&W results, I'd go straight to slide film, because that's where you'll be able to see the fruits of your labor. Your exposure needs to be perfect to get a good slide. (You'll probably want to bracket for starters -- three shots, the indicated exposure, 1/2 stop over and 1/2 stop under.)
I'd also suggest a good book -- one of the older editions of Photography by Barbara London (get the 6th edition or earlier) can be had for
under $10. It's a brilliant book that quickly conveys the basics, and I still use it as a reference.
I'm not big on color negative (C-41) for starting out because it's *too* forgiving. Color film has an exposure latitude of 3 stops or more, which means you can get the exposure way wrong and the print will still come out because of compensations that can be made in the development/printing process. Looking at lab-produced color prints won't tell you if you got the exposure right or not, and even the negatives may not hold much of a clue.
That said... I last shot color film in twenty years ago. Seeing the prices of E-6 processing nowadays, I might have to change my attitude towards C-41...
For the moment, I'm shooting mostly B&W on film and my color stuff is still digital.
If you don't already listen to The Film Photography Podcast, check it out. Start with the first shows when Mike Raso was just starting his own film journey.
I would also consider -- just consider, mind you -- an older mechanical manual-exposure Pentax like the K1000, KX or MX, or a Pentax-compatible like the Ricoh KR-10 (I have one and really like it). Nothing wrong with shooting the Z-1 in manual mode, but I find it harder and slower to manipulate the exposure controls (aperture, shutter, etc.) on an electronic camera. I had a Canon from that era (EOS Rebel 2000) that took great pics but I never found it as satisfying as my old KX.
My philosophy: Given a good enough automated camera (and the Z-1 definitely fits that definition), anyone can take respectable photos. The camera will get the right amount of light onto the film and competent processing will do the rest. You'll have great looking film snapshots.
To me, the difference between a snapshot and a photograph is knowledge and intention. Composition is important, but so is learning how to control the flow of light to the film using the controls available to you (aperture, shutter speed, depth of field, lens choice, film choice, developing choice). None of this is rocket science, and once you know how they work, you'll be a lot happier with the photos you take. Instead of just capturing a scene, you can think about how you want that photograph to look, and make that happen.
And the best part is, once you know those skills, once you understand what the camera is doing, you can get better shots even in automatic mode. One of my go-to cameras was a Pentax PC35AF, a manual-wind point-and-shoot, the early-90s equivalent of taking pics on the iPhone. But even with no controls save a shutter button, I got better results than my non-hobbyist friends because I understood what I was asking the camera to do and how it would handle my requests.
I hope this helps, and good luck on your new adventure. Can't wait to see your photos!
Aaron
My fledgling Flickr page:
Aaron Gold?s albums | Flickr